Hey! I've got a pretty wicked timing cover gasket leak that's been pissing oil onto my driveway for the past week now, and because the only shop I trust around here quoted a dollar amount that I don't have this time of year, I'm going to see if I can do it myself.

I've located the section in the RAVE, it looks pretty straightforward, although there seems to be tons of screws that I just have to keep in order.

My question is, while I'm in there what should I look out for / get done as well? I have never attacked a job of this magnitude before so I'm just looking for some pointers before I throw myself into it. Also, what should I do in terms of bolt torque when re-assembling the engine? As tight as she goes or are there specific foot pounds that I should be following per bolt? Thanks!!!

 

The hardest part about removing the timing cover is the main pulley. You'll need something to hold it while you loosen its bolt. That bolt is in there tight. If memory serves it is about 150 ft lbs. Once you have that off, it is a snap. All of the larger bolts hold the timing cover on and the smaller ones hold the water pump to the timing cover. Don't loosen those unless you have a leak or are replacing it. I think the surgery ones are 11mm and the smaller ones are 10. I know the smaller ones are 10... Maybe the bigger ones are 12 or 13. Anyway, it will be obvious. Just leave the bolts in the holes when you pull it off because some are longer than others.

There is a pattern for tightening the bolts and a torque. I think it is 18 but check the rave.

I'd also replace the front seal while you are at it. Cheap insurance.

I had a series of misfortunes and didn't have a timing gasket the last time I replaced mine. I used black RTV instead and that is the first time I have not had a leak.

 

I should also add that in this last round I replaced the cover to fix a leak and then laid I under the truck to bask in glory and found another leak ... From the TOP of the oil pressure sender. WTH!!! Replacing that little dude is really difficult with everything on. If yours is leaking the oil will run and seem to come from the front seal. I'm not sure my front seal was leaking at all (which is what started my whole process!) but I replaced it anyway. Now no leaks. I think this is the first time in sixteen years that my Rover hasn't leaked anything.

 

If I remember correctly you can use an impact socket and a breaker bar. Stick it on the main crank pulley and sit the breaker bar against the frame. Bump the starter a few times. Should come right loose after a few tries.

Tightening it back is another deal.

 

To get the front cover off you need to drop the pan. Wedge a block of wood into one of the crank lobes and the use a breaker bar on main pulley.

 

Whoa. Forgot about that. Right! I've replaced the studs for bolts on the front of my pan (so it will slide off without removing the oil pan) because I had so many troubles. But Abran is right. That's the best way. Also, a large rubber mallet on the crank lobes works as good as wood, if someone will help while you turn the crank)

 

You should also replace the oil pump gear.

When you do pay close attention to the gears orientation. It has a beveled edge on one side and the new one has to go in that way.

Pack the entire section where the pump gear lives with Vaseline so there are no void spaces. This will give instant oil pressure at start up.

Almost forgot, do the timing chain and timing gears.

Good luck.