When you say rod knocking are you talking about a push rod?

 

[QUOTE=JX60;449469]When you say rod knocking are you talking about a push rod?"
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My gawd, man, you seriously need to get familiar with an internal combustion engine; its parts.
When one speaks about a rod knock, they are talking about connecting rod insert bearings knocking against the journals of the crankshaft, due to excessive wear between the two. A connecting rod links the wrist pin on piston, to the rod bearing on other end of connecting rod. Main bearing inserts, which look similar to rod bearing inserts, but are somewhat larger in size, fit the crankshaft to the lower engine block; that crankshaft rotates within these main bearing journal locations. When wear occurs here, it is due to excess space between crankshaft main journals, and the main bearing inserts in the caps that contain them. All of this is within lower end of engine. At opposite end of engine, upper end, is your valve train, consisting of camshaft in central mid point of engine, with lobes of camshaft pushing up against hydraulic valve lifters (called tappets by British), as camshaft rotates. Now, push rods, thin rods with bulbous ends, perfectly straight, not bent, machined ends to fit nicely into the lifters, push up against rocker arm ends, rocker arms rock against ends of valve rods, opening valves each time rod is pushed up; valve closes due to valve springs, when push rod is not pushing up.

 

You can get new rod and crank bearings for about $200 or so.
You pull off the oil pan
Slip in the new bearings. They come in 1/2's or shells.
You torque each one down and measure the cleaance with plastigage.
Clearance OK then take back apart - put in assy lube.
Back together. Torque and then lock the bolts. That's it.

Probably will fix it.

 

Earlyrover thanks for the info. I am learning as I go and now understand that was a rookie mistake. I received a lesson from my Father-in-law on just that same thing.
With that said, listening to the knock in the video, do you agree with jfall that this is probably lower engine crankshaft bearings and not the lifters?
I plan to do an oil pressure test this weekend but not sure what that will tell me.

 

Good lord that sounds bad. Please post the solution, JX60, when you find it. If I ever hear that sound coming from my engine I sure want to know what to do.

 

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I WANT TO COMMEND jfall for his mentioning plastigage to you; recommending its use. You are the first, as far as I know, from reading posts on this forum, to mention or suggest using plastigage. In a PM, I suggested its use to another guy, from Florida, who had Rover engine sounding like this one, and he told me that numerous other guys had emailed him, giving him thoughts about how to do the needed repair work, but nobody else mentioned plastigage to him. In his past, he never even had a valve cover off of an engine before. I guided him along, as best I could via email, he ordered all parts from England, put in new rod/main inserts, new camshaft, tappets, push rods, rocker arms, and a few other things, and engine now sounds smooth as butter; he is one happy camper. Learn about plastigage, buy it, .001 to about .003 size, from automotive parts store---it is cheap and well worth it. Be sure the journals on your crankshaft are no oval shaped at all; not grooved or otherwise scarred up, before installing new cam/main inserts.

 

I thought that I would update everyone on the engine knock.
After replacing the cam, timing chain/gears, tappets (lifters) rocker arm shafts, power steering pump and idler pulley set...the knock was still there. It ended up being a slipping liner on the drivers side. Long story short, we pinned the liners (all eight) and now it runs great with no knock.
Maybe I can finally get to the fun add on stuff...

 

Wow, all that racket and it was the sleeves? I though sleeves where more of a "tick" sound. That sounded like a deep knock in the video...

 

JX60

thank-you for closing the post