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Tricky Dick - Coolant Pump

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  #21  
Old 01-21-2017, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by chubbs878
Ah you got'er done did ya?? Did you refer to the proper air-purging procedure in the Workshop Manual?? Did you install your w/p gasket dry or slathered in RTV sealant? Next time, you can smear a little grease on the pipes & connections before you attach a coolant hose so that it won't get stuck over time and become a pain in the **** to remove in the future. What's another one.. Loctite on the WP bolts? There is only 16-ft/lb torque so they could loosen up from vibration/shock. Proper bleed on the coolant system, let us know if you went by the specs. Do you have a coolant temp gauge??
one chapter of tricky dick closed....for now
 
  #22  
Old 01-21-2017, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by chubbs878
Ah you got'er done did ya?? Did you refer to the proper air-purging procedure in the Workshop Manual?? Did you install your w/p gasket dry or slathered in RTV sealant? Next time, you can smear a little grease on the pipes & connections before you attach a coolant hose so that it won't get stuck over time and become a pain in the **** to remove in the future. What's another one.. Loctite on the WP bolts? There is only 16-ft/lb torque so they could loosen up from vibration/shock. Proper bleed on the coolant system, let us know if you went by the specs. Do you have a coolant temp gauge??
Did you refer to the proper air-purging procedure in the Workshop Manual?? No didn't follow specs

Did you install your w/p gasket dry or slathered in RTV sealant? Use Gasket Sealant Type 2 on the pump and block

Next time, you can smear a little grease on the pipes & connections before you attach a coolant hose so that it won't get stuck over time and become a pain in the **** to remove in the future. No, was not worried about that.

Loctite on the WP bolts? There is only 16-ft/lb torque so they could loosen up from vibration/shock. No and I used wrist torque, it is kind of like a butt dyno

Do you have a coolant temp gauge?? No, unless you count the dash and the heater vents.
 
  #23  
Old 01-21-2017, 07:36 PM
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Do you not realize how deep this forum is with threads? JUST the D-2....
And ALLLLL of these threads are about problems with a D2, working on it, doing repairs, modifying or upgrading something on a D2. You should really take ownership more seriously. I'm not preaching to you because I don't have anything better to do. I'm telling you this because this is truly an unreliable, poorly manufactured (everything from the engine, especially the engine--all the way up to the damn sunroofs), HIGH maintenance, unappreciative, attention whoreding, Biotch that has an insatiable appetite for making its owners suffer, go broke, lose all patience, and reach the brink of insanity. I'm not even going to attach a link to the new ownership maintenance guide but do yourself one tiny favor and buy 1 of those OBD-2 dongles that will Bluetooth to a phone App, or get what's called Ultragauge or Supergauge that also interacts with the vehicle ECU and will display real time data (mostly for monitoring coolant temp) read and clear fault codes aka "check engine lamp," and other necessary tasks & info for when the time comes that your truck breaks out of its shell and shows it true colors.

The dash gauge, for your engine temp, only has 3 positions; stone cold or ambient temp, "normal/medium" which is about 150-250, and overheating/Red which is that 250+ and practically useless since anything over 210 or 220, depending who you ask, is overheating for these all-aluminum power plants. So many of these engines tank, seize, and fail because they run a temp just below that 240f threshold for whatever period of time, gauge still showing "normal/medium" when even operating at 210 is enough to loosen a cylinder sleeve.

I just want you to be an informed owner and avoid costly parts replacement and repairs. At least do a few searches under the D2 forum that include "coolant temp gauge," "front driveshaft failure," "coolant system bleed"
Your engine temp could be too high if it still has air in it, which I don't even know how it could not if you didn't follow the manual procedure as even that is not enough for some people. Maybe you just luckier than a dog with 2 dicks; would go quite a long way with D2 ownership if that were the case; luck gets you a long way driving a Disco2.
 

Last edited by chubbs878; 01-21-2017 at 07:39 PM.
  #24  
Old 01-21-2017, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by chubbs878
Do you not realize how deep this forum is with threads? JUST the D-2....
And ALLLLL of these threads are about problems with a D2, working on it, doing repairs, modifying or upgrading something on a D2. You should really take ownership more seriously. I'm not preaching to you because I don't have anything better to do. I'm telling you this because this is truly an unreliable, poorly manufactured (everything from the engine, especially the engine--all the way up to the damn sunroofs), HIGH maintenance, unappreciative, attention whoreding, Biotch that has an insatiable appetite for making its owners suffer, go broke, lose all patience, and reach the brink of insanity. I'm not even going to attach a link to the new ownership maintenance guide but do yourself one tiny favor and buy 1 of those OBD-2 dongles that will Bluetooth to a phone App, or get what's called Ultragauge or Supergauge that also interacts with the vehicle ECU and will display real time data (mostly for monitoring coolant temp) read and clear fault codes aka "check engine lamp," and other necessary tasks & info for when the time comes that your truck breaks out of its shell and shows it true colors.

The dash gauge, for your engine temp, only has 3 positions; stone cold or ambient temp, "normal/medium" which is about 150-250, and overheating/Red which is that 250+ and practically useless since anything over 210 or 220, depending who you ask, is overheating for these all-aluminum power plants. So many of these engines tank, seize, and fail because they run a temp just below that 240f threshold for whatever period of time, gauge still showing "normal/medium" when even operating at 210 is enough to loosen a cylinder sleeve.

I just want you to be an informed owner and avoid costly parts replacement and repairs. At least do a few searches under the D2 forum that include "coolant temp gauge," "front driveshaft failure," "coolant system bleed"
Your engine temp could be too high if it still has air in it, which I don't even know how it could not if you didn't follow the manual procedure as even that is not enough for some people. Maybe you just luckier than a dog with 2 dicks; would go quite a long way with D2 ownership if that were the case; luck gets you a long way driving a Disco2.
I appreciate your concerns and glad to see folks out there that are passionate about their Rovers
 
  #25  
Old 01-21-2017, 08:31 PM
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Maybe not so much passion as just trying to keep my $hit on the road haha! Something always breaking down on the D2. It's not my dads Chevy! And definitely not my old 2004 Toyota 4Runner that only needed the occasional brake-pad and battery replacement.
 
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