Yes, and you can also fudge a ground by attaching a battery jumper cable from negative battery post to something sturdy on the engine (not a fuel line....).

 

Sounds like my truck when I got it, sounded ok and ran ok but just was not right.
Ended up the #2 injector electrical connection was totally off, head gasket on 4 and 6 was gone, and 8 had a coolant leak. Got all that fixed and now the truck will not even crank. I can do some riggin and get it to start for a sec, sounds great for that sec. I hate gremlins, good luck.
P1300 is random misfires right? Plugs and wires would be high on my todo list after checking the wiring of them first.

Oh, and that picture of the wrench in the valley was an unexpected find of mine, but in the end I do not think it caused any issues. If it had been any smaller I bet it woulda raped my cam.

 

And we go around the horn again.
I type this LOUD.

HOW CAN YOU ASSURE (YOU, ME, US) THAT YOUR PLUG WIRES ARE
ON THE CORRECT ORDER?

you can't see those coils as they are tucked under the intake.

You gotta do a coil 1 hole x trace to cylinder y and assure all the wires are in place.

You could be firing a plug on the compression stroke of one cylinder and that will cause the engine to run like crap.

We BLEW UP a VW engine once that way 'cause we were too bone headed in High School to get the firing order right.


See .zip file that I found Googling

Best 'o luck,
J

 

One more idea...
It is very hard to get the Intake Manifold seated on the hollow studs.
You may have NEVER SEATED it correctly.

That may be why the bolts were loose too..

I am not trying to be overly critical, just trying to help.

I had to wiggle that intake by feel until it "clunked" down onto the hollow studs.

IF I WAS TO DO IT ALL OVER:
I WOULD COAT THE BOTTOM OF THE LOWER INTAKE GASKET WITH AVIATION GASKET SEALER AND GLUE IT TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

REASON:

AS YOU ARE SEEKING THE SATISIFYING CLUNK SOUND AND FEEL OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD GOING ON

THE SNEAKY INTAKE GASKET IS MOVING AROUND AND COMING OFF THE TWO HOLLOW STUDS AND GETTING MIS-ALIGNED.

THEN IT GETS SMASHED BETWEEN THE HOLLOW STUD AND THE MANIFOLD AS IT HAS COME UP AND IS MOVING AROUND.

BEEN THERE AND LIVED THIS.

SERIOUSLY, THIS IS A MAJOR PAIN IN THE A**

 

JFALL::::::::

Question: i read somewhere here that he says he has them on correctly? Anyway he stated some plugs have spark, some plugs have more than others and some have no spark at all. if the wires were on the coils wouldnt they all have spark no matter what order they were in? I think this is the answer to my question. "Unless there is a problem with the coil itself" but i wanted to ask you that and also i could not find any info on what wires had "no spark"

 

Agree.
All wires should spark - no matter what.
The Crank sensor tells the wires to spark via the ECU grounding wires on the coil packs.


Now this brings up an interesting idea.

What IF

What if the crank sensor was on the hairy edge.
Consider -
The flywheel is warped - just a bit. Maybe even 1/2 a millimeter.
And, the crank sensor gets a signal - just when that warp is nearer to the crank sensor.
When the flywheel warps away - the crank signal is gone and the plugs which would fire under that area of the flywheel and the crank signal don't fire as they never get the signal.

This is a long shot.
But could happen.

if you are saying some plugs don't fire - then..
It would be a bad coil pack.

A bad wire

A bad plug--
Or the crank sensor is mis-aligned just enough for a few cylinders to run and a few not to fire.

The crank sensor is using magnetic reluctance.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...A0yuYeVyG3NbVw

 

IMHO the drilled reluctor style disc would be unlikely to warp, see the slots in the pix, thye open up and close back together to form the 60 points of trigger (less the space for reference pulse). The sensor does need precise spacing to keep working, so if it has been replaced, pehaps a spacer is out of square, etc. The older tab style reluctor discs are thin enough to warp, but bent reluctor tabs, or broken off ones may be more common. One owner even successfully welds a tab back on without taking engine or tranny out of truck.

Plus reluctor disc problems would have been hard to miss before the HG work was started.

Attached are some pages from the BOSCH manual on the CKP, and what the output signal should look like.

 

Hey guys I appreciate the discussion you guys are providing, it is thorough and helpful. I am quite sure the plug wires are in the correct order. I went through RAVEs order while sorting them out to make sure. I was sure to seat the plugs on the coils.

Haha yes I know how big of a bitch putting the intake on can be. But I've done it so many times now Im positive ive had it seated correctly. I made sure the gasket was still on the studs and everything. My next step is to check plug wires and the coil pack. The drivers side plug wires were untouched this entire project as i was only doing the passenger side HG ( to finish the job).

It has been suggested to me that perhaps pinched wiring inside the dash could be related to this issue. Any thoughts on that? I just opened up both dash compartments and I didn't feel any wiring that felt tight or caught on anything.

 

Did you touch the crank sensor???? Hopefully not.

Well, then you have only 4 wires to sort out. Not too bad.

I keep trying to attach a .png with a diagram of the wires..
I'll try again.

 

Crank sensor was completely untouched. Hoping it's just wires, will find out tonight.