The Ultimate Discovery 2
#22
The L83 and 6L80 are running good. I haven’t driven it yet because of other items, but everything is idling fine. Topped off all the fluid levels and no leaks, so I am happy about that. Now working on tying up loose ends and wiring - lots and lots of wiring. Gauges on the dash are working. Have some lights for a few things, but that should begin to go away as I finish the wiring.
Upon start the 3 amigos started glowing. I thought it was one of the new hubs, but it turned out that the shuttle valve had gone bad. Replaced the shuttle valve with a new one with the option B fix.
The Gen 5 engines actually have a belt driven vacuum pump for the brake booster. Since that pump is right where the power steering box is on the Disco, I switched it over to an electric vacuum pump for the brake booster. It is mounted on the passenger side of the firewall. Electric fans and relays are all hooked up and have tested working. Also mounted a new windshield washer bottle. The intake piping is a temporary setup until the more permanent setup I ordered arrives. I plan to plumb it into the factory airbox.
Next is to finish the installation of the air locker / compressor wiring. Then finishing up the dynamat and the interior.
Upon start the 3 amigos started glowing. I thought it was one of the new hubs, but it turned out that the shuttle valve had gone bad. Replaced the shuttle valve with a new one with the option B fix.
The Gen 5 engines actually have a belt driven vacuum pump for the brake booster. Since that pump is right where the power steering box is on the Disco, I switched it over to an electric vacuum pump for the brake booster. It is mounted on the passenger side of the firewall. Electric fans and relays are all hooked up and have tested working. Also mounted a new windshield washer bottle. The intake piping is a temporary setup until the more permanent setup I ordered arrives. I plan to plumb it into the factory airbox.
Next is to finish the installation of the air locker / compressor wiring. Then finishing up the dynamat and the interior.
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SadaJones (08-12-2021)
#23
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#24
The point of this build is to bring the Discovery up to date, and to imagine what Land Rover could build if they ever made a modern solid axle truck. Engine swaps, when done without forethought, can lose what embodies a vehicle. That’s why, in both this build and all of our other LS swap kits, we have put a ton of effort in keeping the character of the Discovery. The goal is to amplify the best parts of a Discovery, while reducing the downsides. When this build is done, there will be plenty of Disco left in the end.
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#25
I was more referring to my sigh of relief that the assortment of the 100+ clips, fasteners, and clamps that hold in the oil, coolant, trans fluid, fuel etc are keeping things in the right places. On a build this big, lots of things to keep track of, especially since it's our first time doing this particular configuration.
The point of this build is to bring the Discovery up to date, and to imagine what Land Rover could build if they ever made a modern solid axle truck. Engine swaps, when done without forethought, can lose what embodies a vehicle. That’s why, in both this build and all of our other LS swap kits, we have put a ton of effort in keeping the character of the Discovery. The goal is to amplify the best parts of a Discovery, while reducing the downsides. When this build is done, there will be plenty of Disco left in the end.
The point of this build is to bring the Discovery up to date, and to imagine what Land Rover could build if they ever made a modern solid axle truck. Engine swaps, when done without forethought, can lose what embodies a vehicle. That’s why, in both this build and all of our other LS swap kits, we have put a ton of effort in keeping the character of the Discovery. The goal is to amplify the best parts of a Discovery, while reducing the downsides. When this build is done, there will be plenty of Disco left in the end.
#26
Little further along today. The inside is pretty bare, but won't be for much longer. The shifter is being changed over to a GM unit that supports tap-shift. Tap-shift lets you chose any gear that you want with a switch on the side of the shifter. We weren’t going to be able to use the factory shifter to do this without an additional switch somewhere else that would be odd to operate. This will be easier to use. The shifter will sit down a bit lower in the trans tunnel than it is right now.
Also the factory gas pedal was removed. A special bracket was made so that the GM pedal could be fitted.
Also the factory gas pedal was removed. A special bracket was made so that the GM pedal could be fitted.
#27
Sorted a few last issues and got a chance to drive it a little bit this week. It’s running very well. Transmission is shifting nicely. Lot of wiring to get the PRNDM to show on the dash, but that is all working now.
It’s been a little while since its been out of its bay, so it received a well-deserved bath! Also working on a final intake setup with the factory airbox.
It’s been a little while since its been out of its bay, so it received a well-deserved bath! Also working on a final intake setup with the factory airbox.
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#29
#30
Maybe for the next one since we’ve already gone to the trouble of getting this one working. I still am a bit surprised by how many things the transmission is tied into. Deleting the Rover V8 from a Disco 2 took a lot of work to sort in our original kits, but deleting a ZF 4-speed might just be harder!
The way it works now is that it shows PRND+M lights on the dash indicator and then we have a second display that shows which gear it’s in 1-6 for tap-shift. That will probably be placed down by the 4wd lever or maybe near the gauges, I’m not positive yet.
Regardless, to do this swap correctly in my opinion, the gear indicator needs to be working at least as good as it is now for everything else that relies on it.
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kjogel (08-28-2021)