Those nice built to last plastic pipes!!!!!
Already broke them when I took the rad out to do the head gaskets plus the ones to the manifold,renewed with nice bendy black rubber hose.
Did not get chance to drive far today and test the temp on the truck,only went a few miles up to the shops, all seemed perfect,sat at idle for 10 minutes and never saw more than 192f.
Need to get on the highway,thats when the 205f showed last.
Did bleed the system again but did not notice any air.

 

That picture of the cracked tank with the sealant in it was from my radiator. The screw for the lower fan shroud caused it. That was the end of an otherwise perfect radiator. I replaced the screws with cable ties on the next radiator and recommend everyone else do the same.

 

I would've went with this this stat....THERMOSTAT ASSY DII & FREELANDER 180 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT, PEL500110, RNQ028 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts


maybe you just still have an air pocket. Turn all the noise down, rev it up, and listen for the gurgle.

 

Get friendly with your local volunteer fire department and see if they can use thier TIC (handheld IR camera) and take a look at the radiator and motor lol

 

Went on a 40 mile trip today and never saw above 196f!!!
Guess must of had a very small pocket of air left in the cooling system.

So I am thinking hurray----- then stop the truck and notice a burning smell, notice the rear drivers side hub is warm,check the other side and really hot,as no way you can touch it.
Got home and jacked the truck up and moved wheel up and down and side to side but can find no play in the wheel bearings,wheels turn fine,pads good and discs/rotors like new.
Any other way to check if the bearings are on the way out short of stripping them down.
If I drive at 40mph the hubs are just warm but go up to 60 mph and one becomes really hot.
Front hubs are cold.
I do have three amigos,and read somewhere on this forum a bearing can throw the sensor.
Maybe sticky brake calipers,but truck runs good if I put her into neutral and coast.

 

The calipers are easy to check. Just pull the wheel and see if you can compress the piston. Put a clamp over the caliper and see if it works. Also, if the calipers are stuck the rotors might turn blue from overheating. For the hub, the axle shaft bolts through it so it won't wobble like a front hub. Typically, if the hubs are shot there will be gear oil leaking out of them. You checked to make sure you have gear oil in there, right?

 

Hi 04dxlr sorry to say I did not know that there was oil in there or how to check.
Thought they were a sealed unit packed with grease.
Did not see any oil leaks when I pulled the wheel,however is it possible they could of leaked totally?
I have not long had this truck and am slowly trying to get it back in shape.
Thanks for the advise.

 

The rear hubs get packed with grease when they are manufactured, but your rear axle should be full of gear oil. Your brake pads and rotors turn motion into heat, so they will get too hot to touch from stopping but the front rotors should get hot also.

 

Turned out to be a sticking caliper piston,which was cheap to repair compared to a new hub.
So whats next to do !!!!!!!