Here you go, top of stat is a good trap...

 

ok got the new hose on, but shes not bleeding well.

i raised the res tank up high, poured coolant into tank until i had a good stream comming out of bleeder screw (while tapping hoses etc to get any bubbles to the top)... started her up and slowly kept the res tank full to the cold line... as it heated up, right around 150ish? F the coolant level rose way up and started to come out of the overfill and the top, thankfully i had my suction device handy and recovered a good amount of overfill before loosing it to the ground... it bubbled for awhile and the level stayed steady right below the hole in the top neck of the tank that the overflow goes... then slowwwly made its way down abit further and stayed there... temps went to 180 then to 210, where it stayed steady bouncing between 204-210 with the high speed fans on... temps never went higher, level of coolant seemed to stay steady, and i wasnt getting hot air from the vents.

sooo i sucked more coolant back out until it ran steady at the cold line, replaced the cap and shut her down. guess ill take it to rover over next week and just have them bleed it. i have 1 gallon left of fresh antifreeze for em to play with.

ideas anyone?

atleast now theres no gaping hole for coolant to gush out of, so its atlesat good to drive short for help haha

 

No heat from vents is a concern. D2 runs coolant thru heater core all the time, no valve. If no heat, not enough coolant. 13 quart system, how much you have left over???

Belt route doiuble checked?

Did you happen to remove and inspect or replace stat? Those four holes in the flange sample water from the hose going toward the bleeder valve. Idf they are clogged, hot water can't get to the working part of the stat as quiclkly, so block gets hotter.

Is/was line from base of coolant jug kinked, preventing adding more? Coolant should appear to circulate in jug, because return line from throttle body heater plate enters there.

 

Personally, I never had much luck running the truck with the coolant tank cap off. Made a bigger mess than it was worth. Try filling the level to the top of the tank, open the bleed screw, lift the tank til the coolant comes out, close the bleed screw, secure the tank and replace the cap. drive it around and turn on the heater. Leave it til tomorrow morning and open the bleed screw, remove the tank cap, lift the tank til the fluid comes out and close the screw, replace the tank and replace the cap. Sometimes, ususally actually, it takes me two mornings to get all of the air out. You do not need to go to the dealer. Try this tomorrw and see if it isn't better. WARNING, be careful with the bleed screw, do not over tighten. They are pretty easy to break. Good Luck. Phil

 

i went out this morning and opened the cap, and the tank was empty, i filled it to cold and lifted it up with bleeder screw open, air came out for a second or so then coolant. tightened screw, put tank back in place. ran it with cap open, it went to 204 then starts puking coolant, no heat from vents. all hoses hot but squish easy. wtf is going on, im almost out of coolant, im going to have to put autozone **** in there and completely waste all the amsoil.

ps. new waterpump belt and thermo less then a 1k ago at beginning of summer.

 

anyone have the BMW part number for the brass bleeder? 2 attempts and my BRAND NEW bleeder screw is already chewed up... what a ****ing joke.

 

If I were you I would stick with the plastic bleeder screw, a $3 bleeder screw is easier and less expensive to replace than the entire hose when the brass bleeder screw messes up the threaded tee in the hose......Try filling the expansion tank, open the bleeder screw, lift the tank, allow air out, keep tank raised, close screw, replace tank, top it off to the very top. Replace cap, then start it and drive with the heater on. Run around for a while and check it again in the morning. Running with the cap off caused me a big mess too. Good luck. Phil