Today I successfully swapped out the original lock cylinder plug with a new ignition barrel. I wasn't about to start carrying two keys with me everywhere. My original key now works in the new ignition barrel, and it was surprisingly easy.

Side note, island-4x4.com in the UK has ignition barrels for a third the price of many places in the US, 45 gbp ($56 USD) as of this writing and the part code is D2LOCK. No VAT because it's exported. They call it an ignition switch / steering lock.

Plenty of good videos on YouTube on how to remove your ignition barrel, takes five to ten minutes if you have your tools by your side. Philips head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, hammer, number 0 philips head screwdriver (or a regular philips head worked for the tiny screws). After I had the antitheft bolts out, I used a dremel to cut a line across them to make future removal and insertion easier with a flathead screwdriver. Don't do this if car theft is a concern where you live. Not a problem in my area.

The new ignition barrel had a locking pin preventing the tumbler from being removed. I used a dremel to cut into it to accept a flathead screwdriver, but discovered it wasn't threaded and just spun freely. The solution, thanks to prodding by another forum member, was to just drill the locking pin out. It worked, and after half a minute of drilling, the pin just fell out and I was able to pull the cylinder plug out.


Warning: Be aware that when the cylinder plug comes out, the brass wafers are prone to pop out of place and get mixed up. Hold the brass wafers into place with your fingers as you remove the plug from its housing to avoid the wafers from falling out. This is what the cylinder plug looks like.



At first I cleaned the original wafers and tried to put them into the new cylinder plug, thinking I would use all new parts but only retain the old wafers. But I discovered the new brass wafers were thinner than the original wafers, meaning the original, thicker wafers wouldn't fit into the slots of the new plug. That's a disturbing insight into the reduced quality of these new ignition barrels on the market. There were also less wafers and slots in the new cylinder plug than in the original, 8 vs 11, and one of the springs that popped out of the new cylinder plug bent out of shape immediately. I haven't had an issue like that with the original springs. Britpart living up to their infamous nickname here... Point of sharing all this is to highlight the superior quality of our original ignition barrels and their components.




Next I tried putting the original cylinder plug (the thing with the wafers in it), with the original wafers intact, into the new ignition barrel housing. It fit! Here's my original key in the new ignition housing. Fits like a glove.



I put that the little locking pin that I had drilled out back in place once I inserted the cylinder plug, and this held tension on the plug to keep it from falling out during reinstallation (I forgot to snap a photo with the pin in place; imagination is useful here). I test fit the key to make sure it spun correctly before reinstalling the ignition barrel. Then put everything back and voila! original key is now working with the new ignition barrel.

 

Thanks for the detailed write up.

 

Did you do this procedure on your NA D2? I contacted Island 4x4 about purchasing the D2LOCK part and they are requesting my VIN to check fitment because they say the part doesn't fit automatic vehicles with shift interlock. Does swapping the barrel resolve that issue?

 

This was on my manual transmission TD5 Disco 2, so I unfortunately can't vouch from personal experience whether this works on the V8 or not. Atlantic British sells the replacement barrel for $220, you could call them and ask them to explain how their version differs from the one sold by Island4x4.

 

Thanks so much for the follow-up! Island4x4 also confirmed that their part is only for vehicles that don't have shift interlock so the AB part or the junkyard are probably the best options for NA D2 owners. I used some dry lube in my lock cylinder and its working satisfactorily for now.

 

Good write up.

You can also usually mix-n-match wafers to fit a key you don't have a cylinder for. When I got my Disco 2 it didn't come with keys. I removed the door handle and took it to a locksmith and he made a key for it. But the door and cylinder weren't keyed the same (it had a journey before me apparently). So I pulled the cylinder apart as shown by the OP and got a cylinder with 5 wafers that worked with my door key by trial and error.