I'm in the process of pressure checking my engine block (with heads removed) I've pressurized to 40 psi and it will hold that for well over 3 hours (slight leak around my water pump block off plate, I can see bubbles) I've used a soapy water mixture around all the clynders so look for leaks and nothing is noted and all the sleeves are flush with the top of the block. Is my pressure check valid? to I need to heat the block to different temps to expose a possible crack/leak? I'm getting ready to reassemble and just want to be sure I'm properly testing the block. Are there any other tests I should do on the block before I re-assemble? I can't think of any but just wanted to ask some more experienced Land Rover guys. The heads are getting redone at a local machine shop.
Oh yeah it's a 2000 Disco II I just bought, half the engine was in the back of the truck, previous owner said head gasket went but it never overheated.

 

New oil pump gears and timing chain. PSI sounds right , many shops don't go higher than 3 times coolant pressure (not relief pressure). New LR 180F thermostat.

Then under the truck, waiting to bite your wallet, is the stock front prop shaft. The oem model has no grease fittings on one end of shaft, it dries out, snaps with very little warning, then beats a hole in the side of the transmission housing. Replace shaft or rebuild with greaseable fittings as in our tech section.

How about a pix of your pressure test set up?

 

I just did the same on a block I feared had a problem. I rant the pressure to 50PSI and left it for hours. I only ended up with a couple small drops of water that seeped along the edge of the liner after an extended period of time (3 hours or more) even though I was having significant problem at operating temperature (one quart water in oil in 8 miles). I can tell you first hand that a crack can be hard to notice at room temp and be large at operating temp. I would fix any leaks (water pump) and run the block up to a higher psi (maybe 50psi or more) and let it sit for an extended period of time and see if it bleeds down at all. I might feel comfortable if it could hold rock solid pressure for 24 hrs. It takes awhile for a couple beads of water every few hours to show up on a pressure gauge. Unless your engine is completely disassembled, you are going to have a hard time seeing any leak at the bottom of the liners. I pulled my oil pan and rotated the crank to get a look, wiped it all down and then looked for a leak. Luckily, mine showed up at the top and I knew I had a problem. Even though my engine had dumped significant coolant out the bottom of the sleeve, I did not see any evidence when I pressure tested it and I spent at least an hour inspecting the bottom of the sleeves with no noticeable leaking.

 

Thanks for your insight. The previous ower said the oil pump and timing chain were done about a year prior to the head gasket issue. (or whatever issue lead him to remove the heads and such). I've read many of the posts about the front driveshaft and will replace it if everything else comes together. I've posted some pictures of my setup for pressure checking. I should have just tapped the large water pump plate for both the servicing valve and the gauge but I was worried about clearance issues. I think I will do it anyway then the test could be conducted with the heads installed as well. My game plan is as follows. I feel pretty good about my pressure check, there is no water in the oil and I see no leaks around the sleeves. I guess the only true way to know since block temperature can be a factor is to assemble it and run it and see what happens. bear in mind that I have never heard this machine run nor do I know of any issues that are yet to show in the driveline. Everything visually checks out. I paid $500 dollars for it, I bought the gasket kit and bolts from AB. I'm having the heads gone over and valvejob done along with a decking at a local machine shop. I need to get it running before I put anymore money into it, as of now I'll have about $500 purchase price, $170 head gasket it, $80 head bolts and Aprox $200 heads (middle of the road from the estimate they gave me) Just under $1000. dollars total. If it turns out that something else is an issue or the block shows a crack at operating temerature I can pull the heads off sell them and scrap the truck and not really take a loss on anything other than time (I think) but on the other hand if it turns out the block is ok (I really have no reason to think otherwise at this point) I'll pull the oil pan and intake back off replace the cam and lifters( they currently show wear but I'm not putting that kind of money into it until I get it running) or last option would be if the block is bad and everything else is ok, Transmission, axles, brake system, hubs ect.... I might just purchase a shortblock with tophat liners and install that. (then I wouldn't buy 2 cams). I'm excited to put it back together, it's a father son project with my 13 year old. so my time lost really is time well spent reguardless of the outcome. it has other issues as well, leaking interior( it's now dry) but it was soaked, had to pull the seats and run fans and light bulbs and damp rid and you name it. front bumper cover is cracked, but it looks like everone removes them anyhow. Frame needs wire wheeled and painted but it's soild. but like I said I have to get it running first, just wanted to consult the experts to make sure the road I'm taking is the right one.
Thanks,
Patrick

 

Sorry I'm pretty new to the forum world, I'll figure out how to insert pictures into the body of my post instead of starting a new one. In the second pic with the yellow arrow, that's my known leak spot.