Very loud thud when turning.
Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 350
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
I know you said you checked the tie rods but my D1 did the same thing and it was the drivers side which had no real signs of wear. Are you saying it will bang even when driving straight? If so are you accelerating/decelerate?
Last edited by bcbp; Nov 15, 2012 at 12:17 AM.
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
I have put a pry bar on every angle of the suspension and nothing moves unusually, the tie rod end twists slightly but there is still resistance there, and from my experience if you twist a bad tie rod end it will feel pretty loose.
Here is my drive shaft info if its helpful.
Has been rebuilt with greaseable joints but I have never greased them because I didn't know about them, but only changed the oil once right when I bought it and haven't even driven far enough for the second one. I have no idea when they were last greased if ever, but they dont show any visible signs of being bad, however is there a way to look inside of them or test if they are bad? These could have been causing a slight low vibration on the highway that I was experiencing as well...
Banned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 4
Here is how to perform the spacer plug weld for anyone else ever truly needs it. However i dont think this is your case.
That is a somewhat common issue. That is caused by movement of an internal spacer in the front longitudinal chassis member. To fix this the loose frame spacers must be secured using plug welds.
Here is the entire procedure to make the repair.
LOCATE FRAME SPACER TO BE REPAIRED
1. Confirm the complaint.
2. Position the vehicle on lift and support the front axel in a wheel free position.
3. Disconnect both battery leads and the alternator.
4. Remove the LH front wheel/tire.
CAUTION: If the Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) bar is moved, ensure the pipes are not strained.
5. Remove two nuts securing anti-roll bar link, remove washers and anti-roll bar link.
6. Remove Power Assisted Steering box upper and lower rear mounting bolts
7. Mark the "59 mm" hole position (front lower position) and center punch the 59 mm position for drilling.
NOTE: The holes can be drilled to a maximum depth of 10 mm (0.400 in.) or until internal spacer is exposed. Depth of the holes may vary.
8. Drill a 3 mm (0.315) diameter hole at the 59 mm position.
9. If the spacer is not exposed, drill a hole next to the first hole to establish the position of the internal spacer.
10. Mark the remaining four positions, adjusting the measurement for any variation required in step 9.
11. Punch and drill 8 mm (0.315) diameter holes at all positions including the correct 3 mm pilot hole at the 59 mm position.
WELD AND REPAIR FRAME PROTECTIVE COATINGS
1. Protect any nearby chassis fittings such as brake pipes from the welding process.
2. Grind chassis to expose bare metal around the drilled holes.
3. Apply Weld-thru coating.
4. Verify that the spacer is attached to the frame before proceeding.
5. MIG weld the edge of the internal spacer to the chassis and completely fill all holes with weld.
6. Grind excess weld material level with the chassis.
7. Etch prime bare metal, repair paint finish as required internally and externally using Rustoleum paints or Mar-hyde.
8. Install the removed steering box bolts and tighten to 90 Nm (67 lbf. ft.).
9. Install removed anti-roll bar link, washer and nuts and tighten to nuts to 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft.).
10. Install front wheel and tighten nuts to 140 Nm (105 lbf. ft.).
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Connect the previously removed alternator and the battery leads.
That is a somewhat common issue. That is caused by movement of an internal spacer in the front longitudinal chassis member. To fix this the loose frame spacers must be secured using plug welds.
Here is the entire procedure to make the repair.
LOCATE FRAME SPACER TO BE REPAIRED
1. Confirm the complaint.
2. Position the vehicle on lift and support the front axel in a wheel free position.
3. Disconnect both battery leads and the alternator.
4. Remove the LH front wheel/tire.
CAUTION: If the Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) bar is moved, ensure the pipes are not strained.
5. Remove two nuts securing anti-roll bar link, remove washers and anti-roll bar link.
6. Remove Power Assisted Steering box upper and lower rear mounting bolts
7. Mark the "59 mm" hole position (front lower position) and center punch the 59 mm position for drilling.
NOTE: The holes can be drilled to a maximum depth of 10 mm (0.400 in.) or until internal spacer is exposed. Depth of the holes may vary.
8. Drill a 3 mm (0.315) diameter hole at the 59 mm position.
9. If the spacer is not exposed, drill a hole next to the first hole to establish the position of the internal spacer.
10. Mark the remaining four positions, adjusting the measurement for any variation required in step 9.
11. Punch and drill 8 mm (0.315) diameter holes at all positions including the correct 3 mm pilot hole at the 59 mm position.
WELD AND REPAIR FRAME PROTECTIVE COATINGS
1. Protect any nearby chassis fittings such as brake pipes from the welding process.
2. Grind chassis to expose bare metal around the drilled holes.
3. Apply Weld-thru coating.
4. Verify that the spacer is attached to the frame before proceeding.
5. MIG weld the edge of the internal spacer to the chassis and completely fill all holes with weld.
6. Grind excess weld material level with the chassis.
7. Etch prime bare metal, repair paint finish as required internally and externally using Rustoleum paints or Mar-hyde.
8. Install the removed steering box bolts and tighten to 90 Nm (67 lbf. ft.).
9. Install removed anti-roll bar link, washer and nuts and tighten to nuts to 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft.).
10. Install front wheel and tighten nuts to 140 Nm (105 lbf. ft.).
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Connect the previously removed alternator and the battery leads.
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
Here is how to perform the spacer plug weld for anyone else ever truly needs it. However i dont think this is your case.
That is a somewhat common issue. That is caused by movement of an internal spacer in the front longitudinal chassis member. To fix this the loose frame spacers must be secured using plug welds.
Here is the entire procedure to make the repair.
LOCATE FRAME SPACER TO BE REPAIRED
1. Confirm the complaint.
2. Position the vehicle on lift and support the front axel in a wheel free position.
3. Disconnect both battery leads and the alternator.
4. Remove the LH front wheel/tire.
CAUTION: If the Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) bar is moved, ensure the pipes are not strained.
5. Remove two nuts securing anti-roll bar link, remove washers and anti-roll bar link.
6. Remove Power Assisted Steering box upper and lower rear mounting bolts
7. Mark the "59 mm" hole position (front lower position) and center punch the 59 mm position for drilling.
NOTE: The holes can be drilled to a maximum depth of 10 mm (0.400 in.) or until internal spacer is exposed. Depth of the holes may vary.
8. Drill a 3 mm (0.315) diameter hole at the 59 mm position.
9. If the spacer is not exposed, drill a hole next to the first hole to establish the position of the internal spacer.
10. Mark the remaining four positions, adjusting the measurement for any variation required in step 9.
11. Punch and drill 8 mm (0.315) diameter holes at all positions including the correct 3 mm pilot hole at the 59 mm position.
WELD AND REPAIR FRAME PROTECTIVE COATINGS
1. Protect any nearby chassis fittings such as brake pipes from the welding process.
2. Grind chassis to expose bare metal around the drilled holes.
3. Apply Weld-thru coating.
4. Verify that the spacer is attached to the frame before proceeding.
5. MIG weld the edge of the internal spacer to the chassis and completely fill all holes with weld.
6. Grind excess weld material level with the chassis.
7. Etch prime bare metal, repair paint finish as required internally and externally using Rustoleum paints or Mar-hyde.
8. Install the removed steering box bolts and tighten to 90 Nm (67 lbf. ft.).
9. Install removed anti-roll bar link, washer and nuts and tighten to nuts to 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft.).
10. Install front wheel and tighten nuts to 140 Nm (105 lbf. ft.).
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Connect the previously removed alternator and the battery leads.
That is a somewhat common issue. That is caused by movement of an internal spacer in the front longitudinal chassis member. To fix this the loose frame spacers must be secured using plug welds.
Here is the entire procedure to make the repair.
LOCATE FRAME SPACER TO BE REPAIRED
1. Confirm the complaint.
2. Position the vehicle on lift and support the front axel in a wheel free position.
3. Disconnect both battery leads and the alternator.
4. Remove the LH front wheel/tire.
CAUTION: If the Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) bar is moved, ensure the pipes are not strained.
5. Remove two nuts securing anti-roll bar link, remove washers and anti-roll bar link.
6. Remove Power Assisted Steering box upper and lower rear mounting bolts
7. Mark the "59 mm" hole position (front lower position) and center punch the 59 mm position for drilling.
NOTE: The holes can be drilled to a maximum depth of 10 mm (0.400 in.) or until internal spacer is exposed. Depth of the holes may vary.
8. Drill a 3 mm (0.315) diameter hole at the 59 mm position.
9. If the spacer is not exposed, drill a hole next to the first hole to establish the position of the internal spacer.
10. Mark the remaining four positions, adjusting the measurement for any variation required in step 9.
11. Punch and drill 8 mm (0.315) diameter holes at all positions including the correct 3 mm pilot hole at the 59 mm position.
WELD AND REPAIR FRAME PROTECTIVE COATINGS
1. Protect any nearby chassis fittings such as brake pipes from the welding process.
2. Grind chassis to expose bare metal around the drilled holes.
3. Apply Weld-thru coating.
4. Verify that the spacer is attached to the frame before proceeding.
5. MIG weld the edge of the internal spacer to the chassis and completely fill all holes with weld.
6. Grind excess weld material level with the chassis.
7. Etch prime bare metal, repair paint finish as required internally and externally using Rustoleum paints or Mar-hyde.
8. Install the removed steering box bolts and tighten to 90 Nm (67 lbf. ft.).
9. Install removed anti-roll bar link, washer and nuts and tighten to nuts to 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft.).
10. Install front wheel and tighten nuts to 140 Nm (105 lbf. ft.).
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Connect the previously removed alternator and the battery leads.
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
Ok so after talking to Drew for a while the other night we think it is the CV shaft. The logic is that the loud bang noise at first was the joint breaking, and then the lesser clunk noise is now the busted CV joint clunking around.
Do others concur?
Do others concur?
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