Pulling up on the belt could help. I think I used like 4 shop rags in different location to jam it up a bit and free up a hand.

 

SDF:

BTW - for reference, what are your temps running now? And what about the idea of using a long neck funnel, maybe 18 inch, to stuff in the coolant neck when refilling the rad - would raise the incoming level way above that darn bleeder hole...

 

Ok, I'm done for the day. You veterans probably know this, but I had to find out for my self. The RAVE is entirely wrong in that it is NOT necessary to remove the fan to replace the drive belt. I did not attempt replacement without removing the fan earlier because I had wanted to get a better look at the front of the engine and knew I'd have to remove it if I ever tackle what I think was a front seal leak. However, White Shepherd has stopped the leak at least for now. When the nut still would not budge this morning, all I could think about was shearing a bolt off using Snafu's method and I did not want to go there. So the fan stays for another day - new belt is in place.

It gets better. While under the truck fishing the belt around the lower pulley, I checked out my drive shaft. Yep, zirc fittings The whole thing looks brand new!!!

 

Well then were's the grease gun? One style many like is the synthetic "green" grease, it is more water proof, used on farm gear because it is also resistant to fertilizer, etc. Availabeleat most auto parts chains, and farm stores like Tractor Supply.

BTW, where in the RAVE is the error you mention?

 

Well Buzz, I'm gonna wait to borrow my Dad's grease gun the next time I see him. That is one of the few tools I don't have. Unfortunately, I can't withstand any more non-essential purchases right now. For the first time in my career, I got the ax dropped on me Friday morning in the form of a crappy fedex package. I'm fairly certain I can find something in the next month but we are cutting to bare bones in the mean time.

Now I'm on to finishing the Suzuki project so I can put it up for sale