Wanting to remove SAI
#1
#2
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I can't really elaborate, but I've read from Range Rover owners it was a matter of disconnecting the SAI pipe, turn off the SAI pump, plug the sensor holes and then just deal with the service engine light that won't go off after that.
I would be interested to hear more details myself, just to have the knowledge.I understand it is not a required system, other than to pass emission tests and pollute less.
I would be interested to hear more details myself, just to have the knowledge.I understand it is not a required system, other than to pass emission tests and pollute less.
#3
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I have the dreaded p1412 code
it was a matter of disconnecting the SAI pipe, turn off the SAI pump, plug the sensor holes and then just deal with the service engine light that won't go off after that.
Good luck with whatever route you go down.
......
#4
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I have the same thing going on myself. I cracked one of the vacuum lines installing new 02 sensor and basically rebuilt the lines with new tubing. It has not helped. I read in an old posting about taking out the SAI valve and cleaning as it might be stuck. I'm going to go to HFT and buy a vacuum tester. After that my next stop is a used SAI valve. Not dropping big bucks for a new one.
#5
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I was driving it home when it just down shut down so I scanned it and the code appeared. I tried to restart and it would not. After about 20-30 minutes I was able to get it running with it to only shut off a few miles down the road. I had to have it towed home. I have replaced the crank sensor less than 1000 miles ago
#6
#7
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I removed mine a couple months ago.
All that it took was removing the pump/hoses/vacuum lines and plugging the vacuum ports on the intake. I also had to take the plugs in the head and I welded up the ends. I actually welded a couple of them still in the engine because I couldn't get them out.
I do have a constant check engine light, but other than that no problem. It's important to note that if you have emissions testing, you will not pass with it removed. You will also never be able to sell it to someone who has to go through emissions testing and you will never be able to move somewhere with it that has emissions testing.
As for your current issue, that's not caused by the SAI. If you've got a new CKP, then I'd check your fuel pump. That's the only other thing I can think of that would be able to cool down, start again, and then quit again when it heated back up. It could also be your new CKP though, I'd replace it under warranty and see if that fixes your issue.
All that it took was removing the pump/hoses/vacuum lines and plugging the vacuum ports on the intake. I also had to take the plugs in the head and I welded up the ends. I actually welded a couple of them still in the engine because I couldn't get them out.
I do have a constant check engine light, but other than that no problem. It's important to note that if you have emissions testing, you will not pass with it removed. You will also never be able to sell it to someone who has to go through emissions testing and you will never be able to move somewhere with it that has emissions testing.
As for your current issue, that's not caused by the SAI. If you've got a new CKP, then I'd check your fuel pump. That's the only other thing I can think of that would be able to cool down, start again, and then quit again when it heated back up. It could also be your new CKP though, I'd replace it under warranty and see if that fixes your issue.
Last edited by Alex_M; 02-22-2016 at 04:10 PM.
#8
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Someone on here a while back was saying the CKP would stop when heated and the fuel pump would just stop. Not saying which is right, I have not had either problem.
As for the SAI, I would check all vacuum lines, especially the rubber L that goes into the vacuum canister on the left side. They carry them at most auto supply houses. The other problem I had was the hose that goes from the SAI pump to the metal pipes had a slit in it and I wrapped it with that metal silver ducting tape, the A/C guys use. Then made sure all the rubber to metal hoses had clamps on them and the code and light went away. I also had a vacuum leak where the hose goes from the intake to the vacuum canister at the intake manifold, and sealed it with ATV. The SAI is pretty straight forward. The pump normally will come on only at cold start and stay on for maybe a minute or so.
As for the SAI, I would check all vacuum lines, especially the rubber L that goes into the vacuum canister on the left side. They carry them at most auto supply houses. The other problem I had was the hose that goes from the SAI pump to the metal pipes had a slit in it and I wrapped it with that metal silver ducting tape, the A/C guys use. Then made sure all the rubber to metal hoses had clamps on them and the code and light went away. I also had a vacuum leak where the hose goes from the intake to the vacuum canister at the intake manifold, and sealed it with ATV. The SAI is pretty straight forward. The pump normally will come on only at cold start and stay on for maybe a minute or so.
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