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  #11  
Old 09-27-2014, 09:42 PM
RicketyTick's Avatar
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Yes that is the correct 180 gray thermostat.

Motorad also makes a 180 t-stat but don't buy it buy the genuine grey one.
 

Last edited by RicketyTick; 09-27-2014 at 09:58 PM.
  #12  
Old 09-28-2014, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Drubie22
I've read those are pretty crucial. That seems like a good idea. Do you have any recommendations on those?
They have a new model out that has the readiness monitors. I would buy that one. You can tell when the cars computer says it is ready to be smogged.

When the battery is disconnected or a code is cleared the cars computer has readiness monitors that have to reset. This normally takes 50 or so miles of around town and highway driving. I think there are 4 total. I recently sold a car and drive it for over 900 miles and was still not ready. I had the earlier version, so I ended up buying a generic OBD2 reader just so I could monitor the readiness monitors.

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction with the pump and thermostat.

Good luck
 
  #13  
Old 09-29-2014, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by abran
If you are serious about overhauling your cooling system:

1) water pump
2) genuine LR 180 t stat(grey one) buy from rovers north or bp Utah
3) new fan clutch
4) new radiator
5) new coolant overflow tank cap

Just did this overhaul on my dads. 204 was the highest temp while driving in the desert driving up a grade with outside temp of 114.

Normal temps at 185.
Abran, thanks for all this info. Can you explain to me the benefit of replacing the coolant overflow tank cap?
 
  #14  
Old 09-29-2014, 09:12 PM
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  #15  
Old 09-29-2014, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Drubie22
I think you would be fine with that cap. Others may think differently?
 
  #16  
Old 09-30-2014, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Drubie22
Abran, thanks for all this info. Can you explain to me the benefit of replacing the coolant overflow tank cap?
The cap controls the pressure of the cooling system - if the pressure is too high or too low it can lead to over heating and/or loss of coolant (both of which can ultimately lead to engine damage). They are cheap to replace and therefore there's no reason not to do it (keep the old one as a spare, just in case it's needed).
 
  #17  
Old 09-30-2014, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RicketyTick
I think you would be fine with that cap. Others may think differently?
It might be different circumstances on my truck but I'm still running my 11-12 year old coolant reservoir cap. I spray the the threads and release valve inside liberally with silicon spray occasionally and all seems fine ............ so far. IMHO, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I have found over 45 years of LR ownership that maintenance is good but fiddling with them for the sake often creates problems that weren't there in the first place.

Story: When I first bought the D2 in 2003 there was a guy locally who polished his new(ish) D2 to death, wore through the paintwork and even polished everything under the hood even the the battery and terminals. One day he arrived at my door and said he couldn't start the truck. I had a look for him withAVO meter in hand and what he'd done was put so much polish on the battery terminals they were virtually insulated. A quick rub around with some emery cloth/paper and all was fine and the truck started first crank. Can't speak much for his paintwork though, it needed a respray as he'd worn through all the laquer coats on the hood and roof.
 
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