That's correct - your electric auxiliary fan should have come on. Did you check to see if the fuse had blown in the engine compartment fuse panel? Also, with the ignition off, use a long screwdriver to see if you can spin the fan manually. It might be seized. Mine was the same - I kept blowing the fuse, then realized that the fan motor was toast. You can get an OEM one, or you can use an aftermarket fan motor and swap the blades.

I have an '03, and was experiencing all the same issues as you (exact same temperatures, too). This past weekend I did the whole cooling system - rad, water pump, 180* thermostat, hoses, clutch fan, TB heater plate, coolant tank cap, and "green" coolant. On my Ultragauge, I'm now getting a solid 188* reading sitting at idle. Well worth the work, especially since I'll be towing with the truck.

 

Yes, you need to replace the electric fan if the fuse is good.
Make sure you grease all the grease fittings on both shafts at each oil change.

 

Have you installed the 180degree thermostat? That'll help your numbers for sure.

 

No, I haven't yet. I'm getting my list together, sounds like I will also be doing the whole cooling system at once. I don't want to deal with the overheating issues. Why can't these things be as simple as my 88"? Anyways, thank you everyone for your input and advice.

 

Because Series are less complicated, they are pure bliss and an absolute blast to drive!

 

Yes, and I don't have to stare at my ultragauge the whole time I drive it.

 

I did some more poking around tonight. I found what looks to be a replaced throttle body heater, it looks shiny and 2 of the factory hose clamps on the bottom look to have been replaced by 2 aftermarket ones. No leaks visible. Would you leave it, or go ahead and change it anyways? Next up, condenser fan frozen. That's why the temp would creep up high at idle and was not running when it hit 220. I found the AC Delco part number, I think I will go that route for replacement. Lastly, I pulled the top shroud off of the radiator and not quite sure if the sticker I found is OEM or if the radiator has already been replaced. The sticker has the name Calsonic K and the number HS PF 1000090. There are no signs of Land Rover on it. Any opinions, ideas, suggestions? I ordered today 180 stat, radiator reservoir cap, and serpentine belt. I'm just trying to figure out what all I need to order and not order parts that aren't needed.

 

If it the throttle body heater looks good, I would leave it, especially if it has new non-OEM clamps that would indicate it has been replaced. You may be good on the radiator as well. I would replace all other parts, do a system flush, and back-flush the heater core, and see what you coolant looks like. If it is not a rusty mess you may be good on the radiator. The repaired/replaced fan and 180 t-stat will make a lot of difference and get you in a safe range I would think. Make sure to review the bleed procedure, it is a little more effort than most other vehicles I have had.

Also, belt tensioner goes counterwise using a wrench on the bolt head of the pulley to release the tension. I replaced the belt tensioner when I did mine a few months back while I was in there. There are two other idler pulleys as well. You can replace the bearings on those metal pulleys relatively cheap. I picked the bearings up on Ebay from US Bearings & Belt

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw...at=0&_from=R40

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw...+2rs1&_sacat=0

 

Pretty sure your electric fan is just for the AC condenser in operation when temps are high. Without AC on the fan just sits there dormant. I've thought about doing a push kit for it but I would need to probably do an independent temp sensor for the fan if Im not doing an always on rig.

Im with you though, its a waste of a fan just for the AC solo and its just what some companies do. Btw just did the TB heater plate and water pump, kinda ticked when I ordered from BP of utah there was no mention of bronze.

 

Nope, it is supposed to come on at 212F even if AC is off, turns off at like 202F. Also can come on if underhood temp is too high 10 seconds after key off.