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Water pump and radiator reccommendation

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  #21  
Old 07-05-2013, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Nope, it is supposed to come on at 212F even if AC is off, turns off at like 202F. Also can come on if underhood temp is too high 10 seconds after key off.
Well looks like I need to trace wires, there is obviously an issue with mine then, fantastic
 
  #22  
Old 07-05-2013, 07:43 PM
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Stick a long screwdriver back through the grill and see if you can spin the fan. I couldn't, mine was locked up. Used the AC Delco part mentioned here and now all good.
 
  #23  
Old 07-05-2013, 08:46 PM
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The same relay brings on the fan for three functions, HVAC + certain range of speed and temps; 212F; and after shutdown cooling. ECU makes the call to switch on the relay. Blown fuse kills all of it, and a blown fuse is a pretty good sign of seized fan or has seized in past. Can swap relay with another just like it in underhood fuse box.
 
  #24  
Old 07-05-2013, 11:15 PM
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Yes the fan should kick on at 212. When engine off and cool the motor should spin freely. If it does not then it is seized. Which will also blow the fuse.
 
  #25  
Old 01-29-2018, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
That is the throttle body heater plate, it starts to leak, you don't notice, coolant is low, bad things happen. The purpose of the plate is to keep the throttle valve from icing up and sticking open, a runaway Rover on an icy road is revolting.

You have taken on all the cooling system, but many items may be OK now. The water pump usually wobbles and leaks out front when bad. The radiator, when clogged, shows a temperature difference across the fins, from to to bottom, of 10F or greater. That is because the lower rows clog up first. The coolant cap can start venting at lower PSI, secretly while driving, which can be detected by a paper towel zip tied around the overflow tube from the coolant jug. Fan clutch test is spin and release. Should feel like peanut butter inside, not coast more that a partial revolution. Do both cold and hot. If it freewheels, the silicone fluid inside is gone, and you will have poor cooling at idle or slow traffic. Electric fan is opposite, drag on it indicates bearing siezing up, frequently blows fuse, and people don't notice it until overheating.

The thermostat is a good thing to change because a lower temp one will cool engine about 10F.

The plastic rad has a screw boss in the top of the tank. Too much force, wrong size screw, and small crack is formed that will leak.

The bleeder valve is prone to break, BMW dealers sell a brass replacement. Or people home brew the whole T. When bleeding air, don't stop at first few bubbles, ther will be more. Air in coolant makes a sound like water rushing thru pipes nder the dash. Could be air, could be exhaust gas in coolant from head gaskets.

The dash heat gauge is built to show 50% from 130 -240F, so watching it is not a good indicator of making incremental improvements on cooling. That is where the Ultra Gauge comes in.
Would you be kind and tell me your "homebrew T" recipe. I like what you have pictured. Getting ready to re-do my cooling system on the 03 D2.
Thank you
Greg
 
  #26  
Old 01-29-2018, 04:31 PM
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Those are hardware store parts, and looks like he drilled and tapped 1/4” npt threads for the two plugs.
 
  #27  
Old 01-29-2018, 04:32 PM
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If you're re-doing you're cooling system I'd recommend going to an in line style thermostat. If you're replacing your radiator, too, then check out the link in my signature. I upgraded the entire system.
 
  #28  
Old 01-29-2018, 04:34 PM
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Wait, signature (oddly} doesn't show up on mobile. Just search "ultimate cooling upgrade" and you'll find it.
 
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