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Water pump ?'s install in the AM

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Old 02-06-2015, 05:14 PM
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Default Water pump ?'s install in the AM

I had a pump failure and about to replace. It says to flush system prior to pump install, do I just do as on some threads and spray hose into top rad hose and let it drain out bottom? Just want to get all the dex out and refill with nice green new stuff. Second. Bought thermostat to replace at same time and asked for the 180 but nothing on it says which it is and am worried it may be the wrong part. all it says is Calorstat Thermostat 154 2002, Vernet. Can anybody find the rating on the thermostat? Third, am going to use copper permatex gasket to seal around water pump, is this correct? thanks guys. hope you can help.
 

Last edited by gribur; 02-06-2015 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 02-06-2015, 06:22 PM
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The 180 thermostat is part number #PEL500110 and looks like this > Low Temp Thermostat : Low Temp Thermostat


The water pump is #STC4378 with GASKET #ERR4077. Airtex is a good brand with the brass impeller. Looks like this (impeller is different in the pic)> Rover Water Pump (STC4378) Replacement Fits Discovery, Range Rover & Defender Vehicles NO need for the cooper gasket crap, use the gasket that comes with the pump or get one. A little high-tack on the gasket helps hold it in place, you'll see in the vid.


AND this is how it all goes together> How To Replace Water Pump On Discovery 2
 
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Old 02-06-2015, 08:13 PM
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Default ty over

Ok, I will check part numbers ty. Now, the fan is all wobbly due to water pump going off. I cant run the truck like that but I am interested in getting the dex out of the system. How do I get it from the heater core, block(w/o removing plugs) etc without running the truck? Or will it be safe to fix the pump, put new Thermostat in and then do the flush?
 
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Old 02-06-2015, 11:29 PM
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Make sure to rinse out tap water with distilled
And look up torque settings.. My last d2 had them held on by 3/8" bolts because I didn't
 
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Old 02-07-2015, 10:01 AM
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I don't see any reason to flush the system before installing the new pump. I helped a neighbor change his a year ago or so and it's not difficult. Getting the fan off may be the most difficult thing about the job, if you don't have the correct tools. The easiest thing to do is get a loaner fan clutch tool set from an auto parts store. I made up my own tools but that's a story for another time. Search the forum for specifics. A long time, highly valued contributor here, Savannah Buzz, always made it a point to say that the fan clutch should be changed at the same time as the water pump or it too will soon fail. There are several threads in which Buzz makes this point and in which it's shared that a less expensive fan clutch for a Chevy Astro van can be a good choice. As for flushing the system here's what I do. First disconnect the lower radiator hose and drain whatever comes out. Then reconnoect the hose and fill the system with plain water. Distilled is preferred by some and is not expensive. Go drive the truck or just let it idle for 15 minutes or so. Let it cool down to the point where the hoses and coolant are not uncomfortable to handle and repeat the process as many times as needed until the system appears to be filled with nothing but water. For me this took two repetitions. Next drain the system again but this time refill with 1 1/2 gallons of your favorite green antifreeze (full strength; I use Prestone from Walmart). Top it off with water, distilled if you prefer. RAVE shows a cooling system capacity of 24.2 pints for a refill. That's about 3 gallons, so 1 1/2 gallons of Prestone gets the system to 50/50. Presto. (Or Prestone.) I know this is not a backflush of the system but it gets out all or substantially all the old coolant. I don't know where you live so executing this in early February may not be a lot of fun.
 

Last edited by mln01; 02-07-2015 at 06:07 PM.
  #6  
Old 02-07-2015, 11:10 PM
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Default mln01

ty mln01. The day was slow but I have the pump off and found one hell of a hard to remove gasket coated in pink/red. Took me 2 hours to get it off even with gasket remover, blade and steel wool.needless to say, I scratched the surface in quite a few places and am now worried about the seal when I reinstall everything in the morning. I have the gasket, its not flimsy paper, it is thicker and grey, not sure of material, I also bought some high tack gasket sealent to hold it in place while I bolt it up. Do you feel that's suitable or should I skim the surface with an ultra thin layer of some ultra copper RTV as well as gasket? Do not want to over do it but do not want to do this again for a long time. Feb in Ontario is not fun. I did buy new fan, new fan clutch, new belt, new pump and mew pulley that had a crack. hoping I have it covered. Let me know your opinion on the sealing issue . ty
 
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Old 02-07-2015, 11:22 PM
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Use rtv. Use enough to fill gouges and to make a complete gasket. Just don't go crazy to the point that you are squashing it inside.
I use right stuff...
 
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Old 02-07-2015, 11:26 PM
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Just did this job a few days ago. You're dealing with an aluminum timing cover housing, gasket, and an aluminum pump. Basically the same expansion rate minus the gasket go out and buy grey permatex high torque gasket maker I've been using it for years great stuff. Lightly coat the pump with the grey stuff, then stick on gasket and coat the fresh side of the gasket with grey stuff. It'll hold and seal but good luck getting it off or making it leak. Well hell it'll probably be the only thing on your rover that doesn't leak.
 
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