Watt Linkage upgrade
#11
Please!!! don't waste your time modifying your WATTS set up. Believe me. I did it. I replaced my WATTS twice with used linkages I found at wreckers. Then after they both went I extended the watts bars and put a slight curve on the bar helping it to twist more. That helped for a bit but in the end, If you are going off road and really articulating, your watts will fail. It's not meant to twist and drop like that.
My pan hard rod came from speedway motors.com, excellent place to deal with.
I picked up 5/8th chromoly adjustable heim joints on a 29" pan hard rod and the entire set up was about $70.00
I also dug around on ebay and found a universal diff track rod link for $30.00
The only welding was the track rod link to the diff. I mounted it right behind the passenger side rear control arm with a plate. Very easy. Took my buddy about 15 minutes of welding.
Someone had asked about rear sway bars.
Just letting you know you can have the best of both worlds if you run a set of front sway bar links in the rear, They fit fine and are approximately 4" longer.
I ran no-swaybar for a while and it was awesome climbing rocks and on heavy off road but on roads and logging roads it was way to bouncy. Like and old cadillac. big slow sway up and down.
My pan hard rod came from speedway motors.com, excellent place to deal with.
I picked up 5/8th chromoly adjustable heim joints on a 29" pan hard rod and the entire set up was about $70.00
I also dug around on ebay and found a universal diff track rod link for $30.00
The only welding was the track rod link to the diff. I mounted it right behind the passenger side rear control arm with a plate. Very easy. Took my buddy about 15 minutes of welding.
Someone had asked about rear sway bars.
Just letting you know you can have the best of both worlds if you run a set of front sway bar links in the rear, They fit fine and are approximately 4" longer.
I ran no-swaybar for a while and it was awesome climbing rocks and on heavy off road but on roads and logging roads it was way to bouncy. Like and old cadillac. big slow sway up and down.
#12
There are anti sway bar disconnects available
https://www.google.fr/webhp?sourceid...%20disconnects
I don't know about the US but on highway in europe it is illegal to run without the OEM suspension connected although disconnects are legal but they must be connected on public roads.
https://www.google.fr/webhp?sourceid...%20disconnects
I don't know about the US but on highway in europe it is illegal to run without the OEM suspension connected although disconnects are legal but they must be connected on public roads.
#13
Please!!! don't waste your time modifying your WATTS set up. Believe me. I did it. I replaced my WATTS twice with used linkages I found at wreckers. Then after they both went I extended the watts bars and put a slight curve on the bar helping it to twist more. That helped for a bit but in the end, If you are going off road and really articulating, your watts will fail. It's not meant to twist and drop like that.
My pan hard rod came from speedway motors.com, excellent place to deal with.
I picked up 5/8th chromoly adjustable heim joints on a 29" pan hard rod and the entire set up was about $70.00
I also dug around on ebay and found a universal diff track rod link for $30.00
The only welding was the track rod link to the diff. I mounted it right behind the passenger side rear control arm with a plate. Very easy. Took my buddy about 15 minutes of welding.
Someone had asked about rear sway bars.
Just letting you know you can have the best of both worlds if you run a set of front sway bar links in the rear, They fit fine and are approximately 4" longer.
I ran no-swaybar for a while and it was awesome climbing rocks and on heavy off road but on roads and logging roads it was way to bouncy. Like and old cadillac. big slow sway up and down.
My pan hard rod came from speedway motors.com, excellent place to deal with.
I picked up 5/8th chromoly adjustable heim joints on a 29" pan hard rod and the entire set up was about $70.00
I also dug around on ebay and found a universal diff track rod link for $30.00
The only welding was the track rod link to the diff. I mounted it right behind the passenger side rear control arm with a plate. Very easy. Took my buddy about 15 minutes of welding.
Someone had asked about rear sway bars.
Just letting you know you can have the best of both worlds if you run a set of front sway bar links in the rear, They fit fine and are approximately 4" longer.
I ran no-swaybar for a while and it was awesome climbing rocks and on heavy off road but on roads and logging roads it was way to bouncy. Like and old cadillac. big slow sway up and down.
#14
Did that a couple years ago. A few others have done it since. Here's my writeup on it
Rear Panhard Conversion - Expedition Portal
Get the kit from RuffStuff, Panhard Kit - RuffStuff Specialties
Select options - Frame outside, axle offset.
Make sure to either plate your frame where you weld it on, or tie it into the rear spring perch.
Toofar's install was clean but caused the rod to interfere with the rear axle housing under compression. Go from frame on the passenger side to axle on the driver side.
Rear Panhard Conversion - Expedition Portal
Get the kit from RuffStuff, Panhard Kit - RuffStuff Specialties
Select options - Frame outside, axle offset.
Make sure to either plate your frame where you weld it on, or tie it into the rear spring perch.
Toofar's install was clean but caused the rod to interfere with the rear axle housing under compression. Go from frame on the passenger side to axle on the driver side.
#15
#16
#17
Yes there are sway-bar disconnects but they are frigging expensive. I spent $20.00 on new front swaybar links and I pretty much get the same effect 247 without connecting and disconecting.
I've had the front links mounted in the rear for over a year (rhyme) and no bad news. They are 4" longer, keep me stable on the road and allow me to get all kinds of travel off road.
FYI, I have 4" lift. I can't say how they would work with a stock truck or a smaller lift.
I've had the front links mounted in the rear for over a year (rhyme) and no bad news. They are 4" longer, keep me stable on the road and allow me to get all kinds of travel off road.
FYI, I have 4" lift. I can't say how they would work with a stock truck or a smaller lift.
Last edited by toofaroffroad; 04-02-2015 at 01:39 PM.
#18
ZGphoto, there is no interference with my axle. I measured that before the install. She is free and clear to bounce up and down all day. I ran my bar that way so I could make use of the watt link, housing on the passenger side, as its much lower. It's been on for about 6 months and has proved to be amazing off road and on. The passenger side diff mount was built with a plate.
#19
I found this Discovery II Rear Panhard Rod Conversion [Forum] - DiscoWeb Message Boards
But I'd love to hear your build Toofaroffroad
But I'd love to hear your build Toofaroffroad
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post