Good morning everyone,
I am looking for suggestions regarding an undercoating. There is a guy locally that comes recommended by a good Rover shop that does Waxoyl treatments and the quote is $1500 (with expected rust prep). There is another undercoating only shop that uses NH oil and sprays everything with oil which is only around $300 (plus rust prep assume another 2-300) but it is recommended you respray it every year. So, what is the right move here? I want to make sure I protect the frame and chassis before I drop a new engine in the beast. Does Waxoyl last 5+ years in New England? Or do I just do the Oil spray every year?
Thanks!

 

Neither. Wire brush it clean where you have rust, and do a nice heavy coat of Rust-Oleum Gloss Black oil base. I've yet to find anything better. You can do a coat of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer first if you like as well, but I generally go straight for the paint.

 

I agree with neither. Thats a lot of money. I have been using Woolwax and it works great. Very similar to Waxoyl but you can do it yourself and save $1400.

 

Also in Massachusetts. I second painting the frame. For extra insurance get the DIY Fluid Film kit with the spray cans and do it once year in the fall.

 

The problem with paint is it's all about the prep. If you cant get a clear shot at cleaning, brush work, rust removal, etc paint will not last long. There are so many places under a D2 where prepping for paint is nearly impossible. Inside the frame rails is a big one. The fluid wax / oil products coat everything and stick to it without drying. I'm lucky my truck is a high desert colorado truck and had very little rust and only light surface rust at that. But I bet you could coat bad rust with waxoyl or wool wax and it would stick and last longer than paint.

Before and after. The green is Eastwood frame paint I had on the bench and used up. I then went over everything with woolwax. I am on the second winter and it still looks the same.

 

Most paint that is true, but oil base paint is a bit of a different animal. The prep is not as important. As long as you wire brush the worst off, a nice heavy coat of Rust-Oleum oil base will last a long long time.

As for the inside of the frame, that is still an issue with the professional products as well. The only real solution there is to shoot some oil inside your frame now and again.

 

Up here in Wisconsin I generally go further

Wire brush, rust converter, rinse off. Rust converting paint, and a layer of raptor liner.

Take rear bumper off, spray wax into the inside of the frame rail, continue to the front of the truck.

Raptor liner is a nice thick layer that water can't penetrate, plus it doesn't get rock chipped.

Expensive..but worth it.

 

I agree with most of the others here. Just use a wire brush for anything with scale. I cleaned, used a neutralizer and then a good chassis paint. Although mine was in pretty good shape from the start from Land Rover's patented chassis rust prevention system working its magic, it makes a world of difference. Just don't paint any pans like the transmission pan, transfer case, etc that has to dissipate heat, the paint or undercoating can trap extra heat.

Here is some chassis **** to look forward to:

 

Have used this process on all my vehicles and have been very pleased. If there is a franchise near you, it is well worth it and it works, new and used vehicles.

check it out!! https://www.rustcheck.com/