Those air bubbles can be a pain man. I suggest you get on this forum, maybe discoweb and use the search function for the MANY threads on burping the cooling system. Not trying to be a smartass, just there are soo many "gimmicks' to try. And then there are the guys that nail it first time.

 

Hey, Dusty1, not a bad idea. When we crimped the ;lone going to the heater core the temp dropped instantly by 5 degrees or so.

Could the heater core be clogged up causing too much pressure and the waterfall?

JHK07, I've tried like 3 techniques, why not try yours!

Thanks

 

Sure clogged core can cause waterfall slosh noise

 

I'm not sure I would agree that a clogged core can be the root cause the waterfall gurgle noises. Those bubbles have to come from somewhere, like a leaky hose clamp, trapped air not bled off, head gasket, cracked block, cracked head. But a chemical test will prove if they are exhaust gas or just air.....

 

We did the chemical test and came back negative, so did the outside mechanic. Im just going to keep plugging away.

Today had temps as high as 230 and as low as 217, with the AC on. Its not right, but its not blowing hoses off.

The only place we have not looked is the water pump. Outside mechanic said he saw once where the blades on the impeller were corroded and caused heat/pressure build and it blew off hoses.

to be continued...

 

I don't know if you have it or not, but since you are having problems ANYWAY, I would highly recommend the 180 degree stat. And get the Genuine from Rovers North. You do realize there are two stat choices for a D2 now ? Not just 1 stat anymore.... Yip, your gonna open up the system again, but who gives a crap. Cook your engine, or lower the temp ?


don't wanna high jack your thread.... When using the chemical test, you suck from reservoir, right ? The instructions also say don't suck up any coolant. So what do you do about that SMALL pissing stream that is flowing into reservoir ? What kind of "riser" did you make to bring your sniffer up out of the reservoir ???? I used some plumbers putty and and something else, can't remember. But I was wondering if OUTSIDE air would compromise the test if I did not have a tight seal ???? again..... sorry for high jack..... Chemical test brought up a lot on here

 

Shortly after I purchased my 2003 D2, I replaced my headgaskets and just about every other gasket to stop some coolant leaks. The thermostat was changed at the same time. The truck started to overheat problem right after the work which was very frustrating. I believe in the end it was a faulty replacement thermostat. There are comments in many other threads about this so I'm not the only one to run into this.

Bottom line - The bypass thermostat design is overly complicated, runs the truck too hot, and some of replacement thermostat are faulty from the start.

Here is what I did next:

1) Purchased a rad pressure tester and Scan Guage 2 (have had it plugged in ever since to monitor coolant temperture).
2) Change out radiator. They get plugged (dexcool sludge, etc.) and can lead to problems, so I wanted to eliminate that as an issue. Also, I found a small leak in mine as well.
3) Changed the coolant expansion tank cap. This causes trouble if its old. Even if it looks good change it unless you know it new.
4) Got rid of the bypass thermostat design and converted to the inline thermostat. Lots of threads on internet. Check them out. Use a 195 deg C chevy thermostat and dont forget to drill the 1/8" dia hole so fluid has a place to go and the thermostat can sense the heat build up. I think my hole size is one or two size up from 1/8" actally.
5) With my in-line conversion I got the combined sight glass and vent unit (JTR Jag That Run). Highly recommended.
Stealth Conversions V8 Cooling System Parts - Coolant Sight Glass

Coolant Sight Glass | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
not my truck but found on line.

6) I purged the system following the instructions to the letter in this website. Elevated the coolant, added coolant until up to operating temp, etc.
7) The purge method does work well however, no matter how I did it could still see a bit of air in the sight glass. Probably everone without a sight glass has some small amount air.
8) Removed last bit of air by letting the engine cool down. Then pressurize system with coolant pressure tester and open briefly the vent on the sight glass. Close, massage hoses and repeat and the system will absolutely no air. The air shoots out and is all purge out very easily.

Since I did this mod a few years ago my truck warms up quick, operates properly, never overheats and doesnt run hot. It works normally and very predicable. The temperature is stable but can varies a bit between 85 and 90 deg C. It variation in temperature corelates perfectly (just as you would expect) with ambient temperatures and engine load.

You will find lots of negative comments about the in-line thermostat conversion online but I know it works from direct experience, and feel its the best thing I've to my truck.

 

In my thread above I meant to say use a 195 deg F chevy thermostat.

 

Hey posted "Bottom line - The bypass thermostat design is overly complicated, runs the truck too hot, and some of replacement thermostat are faulty from the start."

4) Got rid of the bypass thermostat design and converted to the inline thermostat. Lots of threads on internet. Check them out. Use a 195 deg C chevy thermostat and dont forget to drill the 1/8" dia hole so fluid has a place to go and the thermostat can sense the heat build up. I think my hole size is one or two size up from 1/8" actally.

6) I purged the system following the instructions to the letter in this website. Elevated the coolant, added coolant until up to operating temp, etc.
Since I did this mod a few years ago my truck warms up quick, operates properly, never overheats and doesnt run hot. It works normally and very predicable. The temperature is stable but can varies a bit between 85 and 90 deg C. It variation in temperature corelates perfectly (just as you would expect) with ambient temperatures and engine load.

You will find lots of negative comments about the in-line thermostat conversion online but I know it works from direct experience, and feel its the best thing I've to my truck."
On my 2004, same 4.6 L. engine version, I did same thing converting to inline Chevy stat, with same excellent results; anyone who speaks negatively about this sort of conversion doesn't know what they are talking about. EXCELLENT POST BY "HEY" AND SHOULD BE PAID ATTENTION TO.

 

It seem there is hope. I have almost pulled all of my hair out, and I have a lot.

Im going to make a concentrated effort to go through all of the great advice given on this thread after Thanksgiving.

I will update everyone once done.

Thanks again.