Orange fitting is for D2.

 

https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/...n_4871559.html

Top ten locations for bleeding Dll's coolant system...park on any one of these streets...and bleeding becomes simplified...lol.

Funny, that number ten location...already has a rover living there.

Brian.

 

I always wondered if he had other things in mind.

 

No need to pinch the overflow pipe. As Abran wrote you should be able to identify leaks by pressurizing the system to 16 lbs/in2. According to the RAVE the relief valve in the cap opens at 20 lbs/in2.

 

Thanks for the info.

I just bled the system again. removed the bleeder screw, held the fill tank up, kept pouring fluid in no more air came out bleeder, put bleeder back in, filled tank to the cold line.

vents will not blow heat unless I am reving the engine, which I think still means there is air in the system. For the life of me, I can't seem to get it bleed right this time.

Any suggestions, other thatn the ones all over this sight?

 

It takes time and can be frustrating, yes it sounds like air is still in the system or you have a clogged heater core.

 

This is all normal, it does take more then one try often. Run the heat on high for a while while either idling or driving around today, 5 minutes should be enough. Then in the morning open the bleed screw and see if you can add more coolant. Note the engine should be stone cold in the morning when you open the bleed screw. Use a small funnel or paper cup pinched at the side to shape a V to add coolant directly into the bleed screw hole to displace the air pocket there.

Do you know what your coolant temps are?

 

Too many cooks spoil the stew...


For bleeding do as suggested above, I've doing it since day two of fill/bleed of my D2 and can verify it's the best. I use a small water bottle filled with coolant so it can be ever so slowly poured.

If still no heat at idle it may be a partially clogged heater core as Friday Night Disco said. Usually easy to clear by removing both heater hoses and flushing out with a water hose/nozzle.
......

 

Maybe a typo.

But, did you mean kooks?...lol.

It's weird, both of our rovers bled out fine, just filled - with bleeder cracked, ran/drove them with heat on high until operating temps, let them cool down, rechecked and refilled at reservoir - with bleeder cracked again. Good heat and no noise afterwards. Had waterfall noise for the initial ride, as pulling out of the drive...but nothing after that.

Sometimes I wonder if there is some sort of blockage going on in these hard to bleed ones? Or maybe a bad reservior cap, not allowing the system to properly pressurize?

Brian.

 

Thats what ive been saying!!!! In the other thread where me and best 4x4 had a disagreement. I've had rovers heater cores to be cleaned in the shop and they didn't need it.

Park em on a hill, it changes the angle of the hoses/pipes.
Truck overheats, runs warm, using the Rave method, bleed. Nada. Park on a hill, fixed. Sometimes I squeeze the hoses, sometimes I Rev it, I back down the hill and drive off, 195ish.