Finally got around to replacing my front hub assemblies along with new axle seals, after someone taught me the secret, freezing the new axle seal, it took no time at all. I ended up getting both front hubs from A1 auto for $230 for the pair with a 2 year replacement guarantee and free shipping. I know its not necessarily the best option but it made it affordable. It feels like a brand new car so I could not be happier. Now i just need to install the new battery and new negative terminal connector.

 

Yesterday I repaired a broken sunroof drain. Used marine grade jb weld pvc tubing, brass barbs and hose clamps to fix it. I then got my new headliner installed. Went with black and it looks fantastic.

I also replaced my fan clutch with a hayden 2991 severe duty along with a new 99-02 fan.

I noticed better idle temps but they were not at all where I wanted them to be. Everything in my cooling system is basically brand new. Pump, radiator, thermostat, fan/clutch, 2 year old heatercore. I was running 195-208. Was not satisfied.

I thought i might have air in the system for a few weeks now and every time I drove her. I would do the cold bleed method shortly after. Everytime a little bit of air would be released. But it was like somehow I wasn't getting all of it.

Last night i tried it the old fashioned way. Removed the coolant expansion cap and let her idle for a few minutes. Coolant level went way down in the tank. Topped her off.

I haven't driven her since but I just tried the cold bleed again this morning and coolant immediately came out of the bleed screw.

I think when you replace major parts like the radiator and waterpump the cold bleed method isn't sufficient. Seems as if I've had a decent amount of air in there for while.

 

Good work but if you want the best performance you might want to get rid of the Motorad stat and get the genuine LR grey 180° unit.

All reports indicate they do a better job.

 

Just installed the 180 genuine. I just drove her around for a bit and she's still slightly over heating.

My idle temp is around 199-203. With the AC on it gets 208 and every once in a while 210. I'm not seeing any leaks. I'm gonna try to bleed it one more time before I do a pressure test.

It's starting to really **** me off. These engines are junk.

I know I'm not really overheating in a real world sense but I know somethings not right. It's only 70 or so degrees outside right now.

 

Just installed a new door mechanism for the drivers door on my Disco II. The install was very easy. A few tips for everyone if you find yourself in this situation.

1) purchase suction cups to keep glass up out of the way or use a screwdriver
2) make sure you align the new door mechanism the same as old for easy install
3) be careful when removing panel after taking out the seven Phillips screws
4) do not remove screws holding glass, just loosen and slide off arm
5) new mechanism will cost about $45

No special tools required.

 

I took my flares off to rhino line em...liked it without so much they still sitting in the garage rhino lined....

 

Replaced the exhaust, left front hub assembly and filled the washer fluid.

 

What are you using to monitor the temp, scangauge?

 

I've got an ultra gauge

 

210 with a/c on is not bad.

Just cause you have a "180 degree" thermo doesn't mean it should run at 180. No car does that.