After a year and a half of procrastination I took the rear ladder off intending to replace it with a new one from AB only to find out that I didn't have the right size "standard" screws for the new Harbor freight rivnut tool...

I started on the dual battery tray mod using the tray from Columbia Overland. I have to say, what a pain in the ***! I ended up calling Jahn from Rovin Rovers as fabrication was required on two of the mounting points.



With the tray itself taking so long, I ran out of time to hook up the extra battery and Isolator, that'll have to wait for next week.

I did get time to install the Foxwing Awning. So far i've been very impressed with the Rhino rack bar clamps and mounting system that I have mounted on the SD rack. It makes bolting things on a very easy proposition. I think the awning needs to come forward a few more inches but i couldn't test fit it yet, because the battery was out while I was installing



I'd originally intended to also change the plugs in the RRC, and replace the Fuel Filter. I've also got a small oil drip from somewhere that I wanted to track down but ran out of time to work on it.

Finally I got a fun surprise when the switch on my lift stuck on, while i was in the process of racking the car. not a pleasant experience! First plan of action is to clean or replace the switch before i do any more work using the lift. My D2 is so tall that if the lift were stuck on, it'd go straight up and bust the hydraulic lines before it came to the highest resting point ( and most likely crush the RTT against the ceiling). fun times.

 

I have alway felt a kind of vibration at speeds above 60, and could not really pinpoint it. Until today, I checked the tire pressures, all were different, ranging from 25lbs to 38 lbs. Tires call for 50lbs cold. Filled them up and 75 mph and no sign of any vibration.

 

Started painting my fender trims with black bed guard. Got half way and then I had to pack up and make dinner. Tomorrow I'll finish that job and start with the AutoMeter coolant temp gauge I bought.

Where's a good place to plug into? I don't see anything very accessible for the sensor. I also don't see many good places to mount the gauge inside the truck.

 

I took the door handle out to take a good look at it at home...but the key doesnt turn even when it is disattached. it is driving me crazy.

 

what does it do when the pin is broken?
I am trying to find a solution to my problem. Key goes into the cylinder but doesnt turn. I tried wd40, dodnt help at all.

 

Fitted a new vapor barrier over the front driver's door panel and reinstalled the door card with new black pull handles. Also painted the overhead dash panel. Looks pretty nice if I do say so myself.

 

The pin is a little linkage that connects the cylinder in the door handle to the lock motor assembly. They tend to break where they are held in place in the door handle. If it is indeed broken the cylinder will spin freely inside the handle. Mine always takes a little bit of wiggling the key to get it to want it to turn.

 

this is what mine looks like by the way, it is not spinning freely. it is the opposite, it doesnt turn at all, not even a little bit.

 

Just did all the brakes today. What a difference! The pedal is nice and firm and stops are quicker. No more pedal to the floor and stop lights either

 

Replaced Shuttle valve switch this morning. bitch job.
i found this video useful.
https://video.search.yahoo.com/video....bing.net%2Fth

Had to drill out rivets on bracket that holds brake line on the inside of mudguard by shock pillar for more flexibility.