How
did you do the cdl like that. You have my interests peaked

[


QUOTE=The Deputy;602169]Added the secret weapon/homemade CDL linkage assembly.







Worked great.

"thesoundguru", great pictures of your trip, and it looks like you were in Amish country...by the amount of the horse and buggy tracks.

Brian.[/QUOTE]

 

Yes Amish live right across the road from my family up there.

Anyways went to the junk yard today trying to find some D1 wipers and other little knick knacks. The D1 met its end by way of crushing before I got there but they did have an 03' that somebody had pretty heavily all ready been through. I was able to get the plastic insert for the D2 wiper though so I was able to get my passenger wiper back on. Not too upset at changing the arms seeing I just changed to rain x blades not too long ago. Always surprises me how many people forget they don't have to but new arms and can just replace the blades.

I also picked up 3 Hurricane rims. My goal is to have a set of 16" wheels for off road days but 18s with all seasons for the family road trips and running around town.

 

Love the shovel mounts man. Looks great. You should do a write up on em.

 

Got the remainder of the interior floor Bedliner coated and waiting on parts to come back from my buddy who is powder coating them and waiting on a new gasket/oring for the fuel pump to see if that was the cause of why it popped off and caused the massive Evap leak.

 

I did not develope this design, originally, it was a Greg Davis linkage arrangement I saw on line. There use to be a link you could find by googling his name and CDL, but it was dead the last time I looked. You can still find some pictures of the linkage set up, but no description of the installation.

The linkage consists of 2 - 3/8's extensions 8 inches long, 2 -3/8's swivels and a bracket you have to fabricate with a hole for CDL nipple on transfer case...then you weld all of the pieces together. It makes it easier if you make the bracket and form the triangular hole for the CDL nipple, and check fitment, before you weld everything together. Finish linkage fabrication by cutting off the top extensions square drive portion; about an inch of the linkage/extension...which makes it a 1/2 inch in diameter on the **** end.

Once you have the linkage made up, you will remove the console and unbolt the rear section of the front driveshaft, for adequate room from underneath.

To remove console, remove the coin and ash tray, remove window switch cover plate, by prying off gently, remove four screws holding switch plate and unplug switches, remove the four screws that attach the console to the center tunnel; two inside the arm rest and two underneath the rubber mat in front of the hi/lo shifter, remove the hi/lo shifter (leave in hi position), by unscrewing **** and prying boot up and out of console, remove shift **** (leave in neutral position); by pulling straight up until you just about blow a nut...then it will pop off and just about knock you out...if your head is in the way...lol, pull shifter cover straight up; by grasping it firmly with both hands and pulling up, remove seat switches; by removing ***** and plastic surround from armrest and sliding down inside, slip parking brake boot out of the console and move boot to expose pin and clip; remove clip and slide pin out so the handle can be moved straight up, everything should be out of the way now for removal...BUT BEFORE YOU REMOVE CONSOLE...drill a 1/2 inch hole where you want the **** to be (my location worked well)...BUT ONLY GO THROUGH RUBBER MAT AND THE FIRST LAYER OF PLASTIC...OR YOU WILL HIT WIRING HARNESS, after you have your hole...use a pencil and mark down below where you will continue drilling after console is removed, then lift console partially out of the way, just enough so you can reach in and unplug the cigarette lighter wires (2), once they are unplugged, remove console. I did not unplug the shifter housing wiring harness...I just slipped it down through the hole as I was lifting console out.

Once console is out...remove the air duct on the passenger side of tunnel; one screw towards rear of tube, then separate the wiring harness and split into two wiring harnesses; taping them up to keep them out of the way for the linkage, then finish drilling the 1/2 inch hole through the tunnel, between where you have separated the wiring harness. Now, go underneath and slide linkage up through hole, attach bracket to CDL nipple. Once linkage is up through the hole in the tunnel and connected to CDL nipple, grasp with a pair of pliers and turn clockwise, should move smoothly without much effort...and about a quarter turn to engage.

Then reassemble console and driveshaft. The only other modification I had to make while reinstalling console, was to the air duct tube. Had to heat it with a bic lighter in the area that would hit the linkage, heat until plastic is soft and then make a 1/2 inch, moon shape, indentation where the linkage will be. Use some sort of tool on the plastic, unless you don't mind the smell of burning flesh.

Treaded the linkage shaft with a 1/2 by 20 die, since the **** I bought at the parts store had those threads. Filed a notch in the front of the ****, when it was in the disengaged position, so I could just feel the location of the ****, notch facing forward...disengaged, notch facing passenger seat...engaged.

I know this sounds like a lot of work or effort...but truthfully...it only took me a few hours to complete.

I'll try and find some pictures of the linkage on line and post them.

EDIT...LINK NOT DEAD...used Bing instead of google and the link appeared.

http://erikburrows.com/index.php?nod...is+CDL+Linkage

Brian.

 

The funniest part of this whole installation was...I did this on Saturday...and today I drove to Ohio and picked up a 04 engine, trans, transfer case...and CDL linkage. The engine is for my wife's 03...and she will never need the CDL linkage, since her's doesn't have the nipple anyway. So...if I'd only known this was going to transpire...I could have just switched out the hi/lo-cdl shifters.

Oh well...no good deed goes unpunished...lol.

Brian.

 

now that just sucks. All that work and you could have had the factory set up. Well now u have a back up or you can sell it

 

Deleted the email but it attaches to the top 2 mounting tabs on the center console and if they are broken he said he could walk you through how to fix it with $2 parts from a local hardware store. I'm guessing washers and some nuts but it's still sharp as hell.

 

Welcome to Michigan 04 engine, trans and transfer case.



The beast was pretty heavy in one peice.



The divorce takes affect.



Poor little 880 lbs crane definitely had its work cut out.



On the stand, awaiting a gasket set.



Won't be long now, and the silver 03 will be out of my bay...whoo hooo!

Brian.

 

Back from my trip late last night. Put around 1,000 miles (a good 40 of it on 4x4 trails) on the newly rebuild engine. oil psi was perfect, 50 under load. Running a bit hot... 224-230 anywhere not on the freeway, and 210-221 on the freeway. Ever since I ran it to 4k rpm for a few seconds, its been high ever since. Need to figure out whats going on there.

One night in the Fort Stevens area.
Couple nights in the cougar hot springs, Oregon. There's a great 4x4 trail that goes around the lake

Albertons oil change special