What did you do with your DII today?
Normally for a MAF swap you're "supposed" to clear the adaptive settings. Then the D2 will learn and adapt to the new MAF. Is it 100% always required nope especially when slapping in a Bosch for Bosch, but if your D2 had an MAF that was so messed up it learned it's readings, when you'd install a replacement it would be trying to run it with the old bad MAF's setup.
I personally have always just used Bosch units I've grabbed from junk yards for 5.00 each (without the housing). I've only had one INOP one and I just took it back and swapped it out for another one.
I personally have always just used Bosch units I've grabbed from junk yards for 5.00 each (without the housing). I've only had one INOP one and I just took it back and swapped it out for another one.
I have a feeling this has probably been discussed before but can you just grab any ol' Bosch maf element from lets say.. and Audi / VW? Obviously the housings are going to be different diameter etc but the element could be the same?


Normally for a MAF swap you're "supposed" to clear the adaptive settings. Then the D2 will learn and adapt to the new MAF. Is it 100% always required nope especially when slapping in a Bosch for Bosch, but if your D2 had an MAF that was so messed up it learned it's readings, when you'd install a replacement it would be trying to run it with the old bad MAF's setup.
I personally have always just used Bosch units I've grabbed from junk yards for 5.00 each (without the housing). I've only had one INOP one and I just took it back and swapped it out for another one.
I personally have always just used Bosch units I've grabbed from junk yards for 5.00 each (without the housing). I've only had one INOP one and I just took it back and swapped it out for another one.
Bosch has a few MAF's with the same mount as the D2 so you'd have to be careful. If the sensor itself has the same P/N then sure it should be the same. I had an MAF that ran a bit funky at idle but otherwise no check engine lights were and and I cross referenced it from a 7 series BMW. It came in the D2 when I bought it, but I swapped it out for a spare I had.
Bought a GROM-BT3 bluetooth adapter and swapped it in for my CD changer which was no good. Replacement was as easy as pulling the radio and swapping the blue plug with the GROM unit plug. Only tough part was finding space for the box behind the radio (especially with my big hands). Ran the wire for the microphone down under the steering column and up the left side of the dash. Mounted it on the top of the dash between the instrument cluster and radio. Now when the radio is in CD mode, it operated the bluetooth.
Sound quality is flawless and you can control the phone using the skip functions on the steering wheel.
Answer call = skip forward
Decline/end call = skip backwards
Completely worth the $140. Cheapest from the GROM site directly and you can use the promo BT35OFF to get $5 off your purchase. Also need radio pulling keys ($10 on Atlantic British).
Sound quality is flawless and you can control the phone using the skip functions on the steering wheel.
Answer call = skip forward
Decline/end call = skip backwards
Completely worth the $140. Cheapest from the GROM site directly and you can use the promo BT35OFF to get $5 off your purchase. Also need radio pulling keys ($10 on Atlantic British).
For what it’s worth, there are YouTube videos of how you can pull the radio without the “keys.” But I only got it to work a few times. I ended up buying the keys because they make the job dead simple. So, while they’re technically optional, I say spring for them (I think I bought mine on eBay for $5).
If I recall correctly, the first time I pulled mine it took a lot of pressure. Likely because it hadn’t moved in 11 years. If you have the keys, you can pull with less worry that you’re breaking something. If you do the YouTube hack and are pulling hard, it makes you think maybe you’re doing it wrong.
If I recall correctly, the first time I pulled mine it took a lot of pressure. Likely because it hadn’t moved in 11 years. If you have the keys, you can pull with less worry that you’re breaking something. If you do the YouTube hack and are pulling hard, it makes you think maybe you’re doing it wrong.
For what it’s worth, there are YouTube videos of how you can pull the radio without the “keys.” But I only got it to work a few times. I ended up buying the keys because they make the job dead simple. So, while they’re technically optional, I say spring for them (I think I bought mine on eBay for $5).
If I recall correctly, the first time I pulled mine it took a lot of pressure. Likely because it hadn’t moved in 11 years. If you have the keys, you can pull with less worry that you’re breaking something. If you do the YouTube hack and are pulling hard, it makes you think maybe you’re doing it wrong.
If I recall correctly, the first time I pulled mine it took a lot of pressure. Likely because it hadn’t moved in 11 years. If you have the keys, you can pull with less worry that you’re breaking something. If you do the YouTube hack and are pulling hard, it makes you think maybe you’re doing it wrong.
Been listening to a whining noise, since drowning my rover last fall. Thought it was the alternator, that actually seemed to be getting quieter over the last few days. But, this morning...found out I was wrong.
Idler pulley let loose a mile from work and just barely made it...before temps spiked. Replaced belt and idler pulley, filled with anti-freeze...test drove at lunch...fifteen miles...so far...so good...quiet as a mouse now.
Brian.
Idler pulley let loose a mile from work and just barely made it...before temps spiked. Replaced belt and idler pulley, filled with anti-freeze...test drove at lunch...fifteen miles...so far...so good...quiet as a mouse now.
Brian.
Been listening to a whining noise, since drowning my rover last fall. Thought it was the alternator, that actually seemed to be getting quieter over the last few days. But, this morning...found out I was wrong.
Idler pulley let loose a mile from work and just barely made it...before temps spiked. Replaced belt and idler pulley, filled with anti-freeze...test drove at lunch...fifteen miles...so far...so good...quiet as a mouse now.
Brian.
Idler pulley let loose a mile from work and just barely made it...before temps spiked. Replaced belt and idler pulley, filled with anti-freeze...test drove at lunch...fifteen miles...so far...so good...quiet as a mouse now.
Brian.
Brian.


