What did you do with your DII today?
That sucks Sixpack!
I had ordered new timing gears when I rebuilt my 4.6L earlier this year (still not installed sadly....) When I went to install them they fit loosely vs the originals, but what made me stick with the OEM gears was when I rotated the engine with the new gears they were NOT straight..... Allmakes4x4 crap for sure!! I didn't have any issues with the OEM gear going onto the cam, but I won't know if this engine runs properly until I go thru exactly what you've done.
If my 4.6L that I never heard run before I bought it for 500.00 out of a D2 that was running before a pine tree crushed it doesn't work. I'll just pull the running 4.6L out of my 500.00 wonder, do a HG job on it, check the oil pump, and slap it into my 04. The 500.00 wonder 4.6L runs extremely well, but it is getting some exhaust gases into the cooling system so a HG is a no brainer when I'd have it already out of the D2 if I was going to swap it into my 04. It all depends on how my rebuilt 4.6L behaves. I think I'm just going to toss some water into it until I know for sure it runs good.
I had ordered new timing gears when I rebuilt my 4.6L earlier this year (still not installed sadly....) When I went to install them they fit loosely vs the originals, but what made me stick with the OEM gears was when I rotated the engine with the new gears they were NOT straight..... Allmakes4x4 crap for sure!! I didn't have any issues with the OEM gear going onto the cam, but I won't know if this engine runs properly until I go thru exactly what you've done.
If my 4.6L that I never heard run before I bought it for 500.00 out of a D2 that was running before a pine tree crushed it doesn't work. I'll just pull the running 4.6L out of my 500.00 wonder, do a HG job on it, check the oil pump, and slap it into my 04. The 500.00 wonder 4.6L runs extremely well, but it is getting some exhaust gases into the cooling system so a HG is a no brainer when I'd have it already out of the D2 if I was going to swap it into my 04. It all depends on how my rebuilt 4.6L behaves. I think I'm just going to toss some water into it until I know for sure it runs good.
Last edited by Best4x4; Jul 22, 2018 at 09:39 PM.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 240
From: Alabama + Vegas + Texas
As soon as the engine turned over, it sounded like the timing was way off.
When I put the old cam gear on(which looked literally brand new), it did not want to fit the new cam. I put it back on the old cam(where it fits also looked new, no damage), and it fit perfectly. The new cam's groove was clearly a couple thousands small.
I thought, no big deal. I lined it up, snugged it with a ratchet and it drew the key into the cam groove, and easily took the 37' lbs of torque.
I then removed it, checked it, and reinstalled it.
The timing marks lined up perfectly, per the Rave manual.
I then manually turned the engine over with a ratchet/socket on the crank bolt, multiple times, and the timing marks always came back exactly where they were supposed to.
I did this again, after installing the heads. I took pictures along the way too, to remind myself that it was correct.
After trying to start it, sounding like it was out of time, I had hoped it was just ecu values being reset. I can't use my Nanocom yet, because I had to email them for a code to register it online, so I can download codes to the Nanocom itself, so that'll be tomorrow or tuesday before I hear anything. Which is now irrelavent.
A friend of mine who is now a self employed mechanic, who has 13 years of Euro Trash experience at his previous employer, stopped by with his Snap-On Versus OBD scanner.
First thing he said was, "sounds like the timing is off". Yeah, what I said.
No codes, everything else is reading, and/or functioning properly.
Out and apart it comes, again...eventually...maybe.
Once again, why did I buy this pos?
When I put the old cam gear on(which looked literally brand new), it did not want to fit the new cam. I put it back on the old cam(where it fits also looked new, no damage), and it fit perfectly. The new cam's groove was clearly a couple thousands small.
I thought, no big deal. I lined it up, snugged it with a ratchet and it drew the key into the cam groove, and easily took the 37' lbs of torque.
I then removed it, checked it, and reinstalled it.
The timing marks lined up perfectly, per the Rave manual.
I then manually turned the engine over with a ratchet/socket on the crank bolt, multiple times, and the timing marks always came back exactly where they were supposed to.
I did this again, after installing the heads. I took pictures along the way too, to remind myself that it was correct.
After trying to start it, sounding like it was out of time, I had hoped it was just ecu values being reset. I can't use my Nanocom yet, because I had to email them for a code to register it online, so I can download codes to the Nanocom itself, so that'll be tomorrow or tuesday before I hear anything. Which is now irrelavent.
A friend of mine who is now a self employed mechanic, who has 13 years of Euro Trash experience at his previous employer, stopped by with his Snap-On Versus OBD scanner.
First thing he said was, "sounds like the timing is off". Yeah, what I said.
No codes, everything else is reading, and/or functioning properly.
Out and apart it comes, again...eventually...maybe.
Once again, why did I buy this pos?
The cam+gears were easy for me compared to how many times I swore I had the spark plug wires on the correct coil pack ports and kept being wrong!
For some reason I was also thinking that even being 1 tooth off on the timing chain for the cam/oil pump gears would mean that you wouldn't get *any* cylinders firing due to wrong fuel air mix with valves open.
Last edited by No Doubt; Jul 23, 2018 at 12:46 AM.
Did some body work with 2 tech screws today. The rear quarter panels were cut down for the install of the rear bumper but were never secured etc -- AKA they are super flimsy and make noise when driving on the HWY. 1 screw on each side solved that problem 
Panel pushed in:
Panel pulled out:
SCREWED
Panel pushed in:
Panel pulled out:
SCREWED
Ignition Chasing Ignition Problems
I have had an '04 4.6L for the past 3 years. I started getting some wet weather misfires about 2 years ago. Would typically happen in summers after rain, the engine would run rough at idle when in gear, especially on low RPM acceleration with the AC running. The Truck has a damaged front windshield cowl that I suspected was letting some water in and effecting the electronics. After 10-20 Min of driving, the truck would run much better (assuming engine heat was drying out components).
The Truck would throw a series of codes (P0300, P0305, P1300, P0307, P0308), only ever ignition related.
Last year (10,000 Miles) I replaced plugs and wires (7mm Kit from Atlantic British) it didn't resolve the issue.
About 6 months ago (5,000 Miles) I pulled the coil pack, installed a replacement part from parts Geek that didn't fit very well and didn't solve the problem. I removed the old coils from the bracket and found a considerable amount of rust on the metal/metal surfaces of the coil / bracket. I cleaned and reinstalled the bracket coils. The originals ran better than the replacement part, so I left them installed, but the wet weather misfires continued.
Last week I took a look at my ground strap on driver's side rear head of the engine and realized the strap was toast. Corroded and fraying. I added a ground Cable from the Ground strap mount to an Exhaust Manifold bolt and cleaned the ground points on the passenger side.
Based on the locations of the misfires, I think the corroded ground might have be the culprit, but the ignition wires are now shot from a year of misfiring in rainy weather.
Last night I hit the wired with some water at night to see if I could locate any arcing. I saw a few pinhole arcs from the wires directly to the valve cover. I'm assuming this means they're toast.
I've ordered 8mm replacement wires and new plugs for the truck and plan on installing them next week.
Before I go forward, I'm wondering if my logic is sound.
TL
R: Corroded Coil Bracket + Ground Strap cause ignition cables to short out. Original issue is now fixes, but the cables are now shot. Is this good logic?
I have had an '04 4.6L for the past 3 years. I started getting some wet weather misfires about 2 years ago. Would typically happen in summers after rain, the engine would run rough at idle when in gear, especially on low RPM acceleration with the AC running. The Truck has a damaged front windshield cowl that I suspected was letting some water in and effecting the electronics. After 10-20 Min of driving, the truck would run much better (assuming engine heat was drying out components).
The Truck would throw a series of codes (P0300, P0305, P1300, P0307, P0308), only ever ignition related.
Last year (10,000 Miles) I replaced plugs and wires (7mm Kit from Atlantic British) it didn't resolve the issue.
About 6 months ago (5,000 Miles) I pulled the coil pack, installed a replacement part from parts Geek that didn't fit very well and didn't solve the problem. I removed the old coils from the bracket and found a considerable amount of rust on the metal/metal surfaces of the coil / bracket. I cleaned and reinstalled the bracket coils. The originals ran better than the replacement part, so I left them installed, but the wet weather misfires continued.
Last week I took a look at my ground strap on driver's side rear head of the engine and realized the strap was toast. Corroded and fraying. I added a ground Cable from the Ground strap mount to an Exhaust Manifold bolt and cleaned the ground points on the passenger side.
Based on the locations of the misfires, I think the corroded ground might have be the culprit, but the ignition wires are now shot from a year of misfiring in rainy weather.
Last night I hit the wired with some water at night to see if I could locate any arcing. I saw a few pinhole arcs from the wires directly to the valve cover. I'm assuming this means they're toast.
I've ordered 8mm replacement wires and new plugs for the truck and plan on installing them next week.
Before I go forward, I'm wondering if my logic is sound.
TL
R: Corroded Coil Bracket + Ground Strap cause ignition cables to short out. Original issue is now fixes, but the cables are now shot. Is this good logic?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 240
From: Alabama + Vegas + Texas
Seems good to me!
TReK
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,387
Likes: 488
So, you've physically checked the cam key? Something just doesn't seem right here, the key is just an alignment item...so for it to shear off is weird. You said it sounded like the timing was off from the get-go (first crank)...is this an original cam or aftermarket? Did you turn the engine over with the heads on and spark plugs out, before starting?
Just trying to wrap my head around this.
Edit...also, you can save the oil, just drain into a clean pan and put it back into the container. Use a blue plastic kids pool for collecting anti-freeze.
Double Edit...and, did you pump up the new lifters?
Brian.
Just trying to wrap my head around this.
Edit...also, you can save the oil, just drain into a clean pan and put it back into the container. Use a blue plastic kids pool for collecting anti-freeze.
Double Edit...and, did you pump up the new lifters?
Brian.
New lifters were submerged in oil at least a couple months.
The key on the camshaft is the only thing keeping the cam gear from spinning on the end of the camshaft, if it breaks, the engine goes out of time.
My old oil and anti-freeze jugs already went to the dump.
Aside from the time, money, and frustration, the one part I dread is cleaning off the new ultra black sealer off of all the gasket surfaces. And to find out wth is wrong with the rear main seal.
I'm really Land Rovered out, but I have too much money in it to just walk away now, as nice as that would be.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,865
Likes: 1,408
From: Michigan
Crower cam, with sh*tty cam key fitment, in hindsight, I should have returned it for another, and will once it's out.
New lifters were submerged in oil at least a couple months.
The key on the camshaft is the only thing keeping the cam gear from spinning on the end of the camshaft, if it breaks, the engine goes out of time.
My old oil and anti-freeze jugs already went to the dump.
Aside from the time, money, and frustration, the one part I dread is cleaning off the new ultra black sealer off of all the gasket surfaces. And to find out wth is wrong with the rear main seal.
I'm really Land Rovered out, but I have too much money in it to just walk away now, as nice as that would be.
New lifters were submerged in oil at least a couple months.
The key on the camshaft is the only thing keeping the cam gear from spinning on the end of the camshaft, if it breaks, the engine goes out of time.
My old oil and anti-freeze jugs already went to the dump.
Aside from the time, money, and frustration, the one part I dread is cleaning off the new ultra black sealer off of all the gasket surfaces. And to find out wth is wrong with the rear main seal.
I'm really Land Rovered out, but I have too much money in it to just walk away now, as nice as that would be.
Not trying to question your work...just hate to see you remove the front cover without doing more investigation.
It just seems weird that you were basically just turning it over...and it breaks? Did it backfire or anything, while cranking over? Did it even try to start or did it just turn over without firing? If it didn't backfire...my mind just can't picture that key shearing. Been a mechanic for forty some years...and have never experienced this type of failure.
The rear main seal is another wierd issue...and a basta*d. Not an easy repair, for sure.
And I get the..."l've had it with this thing attitude"...totally.
Anyhow, good luck.
Brian.
TReK
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,387
Likes: 488
That's kind of what l'm getting at..."if it breaks". What made it break...and it sounds like you haven't confirmed this yet (visually)...so, that leads me to wonder "if" it could be something else. Like mentioned in another post...plug wires...are you sure these are fitted correctly?
Not trying to question your work...just hate to see you remove the front cover without doing more investigation.
It just seems weird that you were basically just turning it over...and it breaks? Did it backfire or anything, while cranking over? Did it even try to start or did it just turn over without firing? If it didn't backfire...my mind just can't picture that key shearing. Been a mechanic for forty some years...and have never experienced this type of failure.
The rear main seal is another wierd issue...and a basta*d. Not an easy repair, for sure.
And I get the..."l've had it with this thing attitude"...totally.
Anyhow, good luck.
Brian.
Not trying to question your work...just hate to see you remove the front cover without doing more investigation.
It just seems weird that you were basically just turning it over...and it breaks? Did it backfire or anything, while cranking over? Did it even try to start or did it just turn over without firing? If it didn't backfire...my mind just can't picture that key shearing. Been a mechanic for forty some years...and have never experienced this type of failure.
The rear main seal is another wierd issue...and a basta*d. Not an easy repair, for sure.
And I get the..."l've had it with this thing attitude"...totally.
Anyhow, good luck.
Brian.
When I first started cranking it, nothing happened, as expected, because of no fuel. Shortly after, 2 loud sputters, but no backfire, but because I don't think a steady fuel flow had made it to the rail yet.
Then, the sound changed. It sounded like an engine that jumped time. As I explained above, the cam key was too tight, and the gear had to be drawn on to the cam.
I then removed and reinstalled it to check that it had fit.
No damage was visible, and it easily took the 37' lbs.
The sound of the engine turning over, hard as it is to explain, was just as if the cam gear was turning on the cam, as if the timing was way off, and getting worse.
I'm all in on that being the failure point.
And, reason being, Crower made a cam with an undesize key way, their fault...And my fault for using it.
As for the rear main seal, who knows, other than it's a pathetic design.
I have alot going on now, so it'll be about 2 weeks before I get back to it. I have some of it back apart already, but don't want to open the engine, as it doesn't need to sit in the humidity.
I also need to allow it time to rust again, I'de hate to think this would be easier the second time around, lol.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,865
Likes: 1,408
From: Michigan
Since drug addiction is now covered as a illness on health insurance...wouldn't a land rover discovery addiction be considered the same...and covered too...lol.
Pretty much falls into the same category...it takes the same amount of stupidity, addiction, mental illness, whatever term you like...to shoot up heroin as it does owning a Dll...or maybe more.
Heroin...Dll ownership? Herion...Dll ownership? Me, l'm considering making the change...lol.
Brian.
Pretty much falls into the same category...it takes the same amount of stupidity, addiction, mental illness, whatever term you like...to shoot up heroin as it does owning a Dll...or maybe more.
Heroin...Dll ownership? Herion...Dll ownership? Me, l'm considering making the change...lol.
Brian.