I drove MagPie today in the 90+ heat with AC on -- temps were in the mid 190's the whole time.



I think i've narrowed down what lights i want to use for reverse lights since.. i don't have any.

http://a.co/iwMjvVn

 

Had a weird noise while accelerating coming out of a corner, so dropped the front shaft to lube cardan and joints. Everything there looked fine, so after a bit more investigating...the heat shield above the muffler had fallen down and was the guilty party.

The gas door popped open twice over the past couple days. Removed the little plastic catch and applied some epoxy on the top of rear guide (which was worn and allowing the catch to swing upward to much). All fixed.

Brian.

 

 

I've used RP in my trucks and bikes for many years, great stuff.
I've got Rotella 15w40 in my D2, from all the forums recomendations.
What weight RP are you guys using?
I hope to start my D2 today, and I have more Rotella for the oil change after the initial break in. I'de like to switch to RP.
The only reason that I hadn't was because I had read that full synthetic was bad about leaking past the cruciform seals.
But, if Juke170R has less oil spots, that really makes me want to go back to RP.
Are you sure that all the oil just hadn't leaked out, lol?

 

 

Got my engine and everything back together!

And...it broke the cam key and jumped time!
Yay.
Fortunately pistons don't hit valves in these engines, or so I read.
And, and...the rear main seal is pissing oil everywhere, looks exactly like before I pulled the engine, and found the old seal was cocked and had walked out.
I just can't wait to do this job again. I sure am glad I used 6 quarts of oil, 1 bottle of break-in additive, over 2 gallons of anti-freeze, and 2 bottles of Water Wetter. Yeah, there's another $100 shot, no good way to save that stuff and keep it clean.
All I can hope is for tree to fall on it, maybe a meteorite, whatever works.
This thing has ate most all of my free time in the last year, and although the egine will come out much easier than before(everything is clean, and all fasteners have anti-seize), I'm finding it hard to get motivated to do anything else to it right now.
Why did I buy this pos?

 

As soon as the engine turned over, it sounded like the timing was way off.
When I put the old cam gear on(which looked literally brand new), it did not want to fit the new cam. I put it back on the old cam(where it fits also looked new, no damage), and it fit perfectly. The new cam's groove was clearly a couple thousands small.
I thought, no big deal. I lined it up, snugged it with a ratchet and it drew the key into the cam groove, and easily took the 37' lbs of torque.
I then removed it, checked it, and reinstalled it.
The timing marks lined up perfectly, per the Rave manual.
I then manually turned the engine over with a ratchet/socket on the crank bolt, multiple times, and the timing marks always came back exactly where they were supposed to.
I did this again, after installing the heads. I took pictures along the way too, to remind myself that it was correct.
After trying to start it, sounding like it was out of time, I had hoped it was just ecu values being reset. I can't use my Nanocom yet, because I had to email them for a code to register it online, so I can download codes to the Nanocom itself, so that'll be tomorrow or tuesday before I hear anything. Which is now irrelavent.
A friend of mine who is now a self employed mechanic, who has 13 years of Euro Trash experience at his previous employer, stopped by with his Snap-On Versus OBD scanner.
First thing he said was, "sounds like the timing is off". Yeah, what I said.
No codes, everything else is reading, and/or functioning properly.
Out and apart it comes, again...eventually...maybe.
Once again, why did I buy this pos?

 

Because it rules and you love wrenching.

 

 

So, you've physically checked the cam key? Something just doesn't seem right here, the key is just an alignment item...so for it to shear off is weird. You said it sounded like the timing was off from the get-go (first crank)...is this an original cam or aftermarket? Did you turn the engine over with the heads on and spark plugs out, before starting?

Just trying to wrap my head around this.

Edit...also, you can save the oil, just drain into a clean pan and put it back into the container. Use a blue plastic kids pool for collecting anti-freeze.

Double Edit...and, did you pump up the new lifters?

Brian.