What did you do with your DII today?
Yesterday I had a few hours to tinker, so I went after low hanging fruit:
1. I lubed the third-row seat interlocks so they release the seatbacks when the seats latch into the floor. Now I can pull up the seatbacks the way that the designers intended.
2. I got the rear wiper and washer going by simply plugging in its connector. Yes, somebody got into the rear door and unplugged them... no idea why.
3. Looked into the stuck rear door lock motor, but found that it is integral with the rear latch mechanism. I've got to research this repair, so I buttoned up the door.
4. I lubed the ignition key lock with silicone spray, and didn't change a darned thing. However, I'm getting a knack for exactly where to wiggle the key to get it to unlock and start the engine, and how to push and twist to get the key out of the ignition lock. I'm very glad that I'll have my "new" used lock arrive tomorrow.
5. I repaired my cruise control. Someone had removed the vacuum hose between the cruise control vacuum pump and the vacuum motor, probably because it had split. All it needed was a new vacuum hose, so I put on a nice blue silicone rubber hose, and tested the system to see that it now works fine.
6. I did a little diagnosis of my amber ACE light, and found that the ACE fuse was missing in the front fuse box. I put in a new one, but that wasn't the silver bullet and the ACE light still comes on amber. I need to research how to read its error codes.
7. I had an old can of R134a, so I squirted it in, but the AC still wasn't working. I found that the 40 Amp fuse for the front auxiliary cooling fans was burnt out, so I replaced it and the AC started working on the driver's side only. I also heard that refrigerant hissing and bubbling out of some leak in the engine bay, so this rig will have to go to an AC specialist for a proper repair. Or, it will finally be the excuse I need to buy the vacuum pump, guages, and other tools to do AC work on my own. So, I also need to look into why mixer doors or heater valves aren't working to stop heating on the passenger side.
Scott
1. I lubed the third-row seat interlocks so they release the seatbacks when the seats latch into the floor. Now I can pull up the seatbacks the way that the designers intended.
2. I got the rear wiper and washer going by simply plugging in its connector. Yes, somebody got into the rear door and unplugged them... no idea why.
3. Looked into the stuck rear door lock motor, but found that it is integral with the rear latch mechanism. I've got to research this repair, so I buttoned up the door.
4. I lubed the ignition key lock with silicone spray, and didn't change a darned thing. However, I'm getting a knack for exactly where to wiggle the key to get it to unlock and start the engine, and how to push and twist to get the key out of the ignition lock. I'm very glad that I'll have my "new" used lock arrive tomorrow.
5. I repaired my cruise control. Someone had removed the vacuum hose between the cruise control vacuum pump and the vacuum motor, probably because it had split. All it needed was a new vacuum hose, so I put on a nice blue silicone rubber hose, and tested the system to see that it now works fine.
6. I did a little diagnosis of my amber ACE light, and found that the ACE fuse was missing in the front fuse box. I put in a new one, but that wasn't the silver bullet and the ACE light still comes on amber. I need to research how to read its error codes.
7. I had an old can of R134a, so I squirted it in, but the AC still wasn't working. I found that the 40 Amp fuse for the front auxiliary cooling fans was burnt out, so I replaced it and the AC started working on the driver's side only. I also heard that refrigerant hissing and bubbling out of some leak in the engine bay, so this rig will have to go to an AC specialist for a proper repair. Or, it will finally be the excuse I need to buy the vacuum pump, guages, and other tools to do AC work on my own. So, I also need to look into why mixer doors or heater valves aren't working to stop heating on the passenger side.
Scott
Last edited by skucera; Jul 21, 2019 at 09:54 PM. Reason: typos
Just spent the last 3 or 4 hours modifying a terrafirma bumper for a P38 Range Rover for a Discovery 2. Buddy already had the bumper for his range and didn't want to buy another for the Disco, so we whipped out the grinder and welder and sure enough, we got it on there.
It was a bigger undertaking than expected, and it's not winch ready just yet, but it's good enough to drive around on for the time being. Looks way cooler, too, and I got a good factory bumper out of the deal.
It was a bigger undertaking than expected, and it's not winch ready just yet, but it's good enough to drive around on for the time being. Looks way cooler, too, and I got a good factory bumper out of the deal.
Chris, of Dark Crow designs out of Ohio was the fabricator for both that truck and the trailer I believe.. Kinda funky and over the top, but also pretty cool. I think every ARB interior switch ever made may be wired inside that cockpit..
My replacement ignition lock and new key arrived in the mail today, so I installed it tonight after dinner. I'll have to use two keys, one for the driver's door and the other for the ignition, but hey, at least the new one works like a normal car without jiggling.
I also looked up the secret and changed my HVAC controller so it reads in Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. (Yeah, I'm old-fashioned enough that my brain comes up with the term "Celsius" instead of that newfangled term, "Centigrade.")
Scott
I also looked up the secret and changed my HVAC controller so it reads in Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. (Yeah, I'm old-fashioned enough that my brain comes up with the term "Celsius" instead of that newfangled term, "Centigrade.")
Scott
My replacement ignition lock and new key arrived in the mail today, so I installed it tonight after dinner. I'll have to use two keys, one for the driver's door and the other for the ignition, but hey, at least the new one works like a normal car without jiggling.
I also looked up the secret and changed my HVAC controller so it reads in Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. (Yeah, I'm old-fashioned enough that my brain comes up with the term "Celsius" instead of that newfangled term, "Centigrade.")
Scott
I also looked up the secret and changed my HVAC controller so it reads in Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. (Yeah, I'm old-fashioned enough that my brain comes up with the term "Celsius" instead of that newfangled term, "Centigrade.")
Scott
https://www.reference.com/science/di...53a50522729a19
Celcius and centigrade are actually, technically, teo different measurements. There is only a .01 degree difference and celcius is the newer of the two measurements.
https://www.reference.com/science/di...53a50522729a19
https://www.reference.com/science/di...53a50522729a19
Scott
I did the most petty of petty repairs today. The cup holder's spring had slipped out of a little recess the back of the slide, so I slipped it back into place. The cup holder now presents itself when pushed, and latches again when pushed back in.
Also, my license plates arrived today, so I screwed them on. The front one was tricky because somebody removed the front bracket. Odd, because the two states this car had lived in before both require front license plates... Ohio and New Jersey. Somebody else just drilled holes and screwed sheet metal screws into the plastic bumper skin... cheesy. I drilled the holes and tapped them for some Pozidrive screws I had in the garage from a previous MG or Spitfire. (At least it's an English solution.) The back license plate frame was already tapped for M6 bolts, so that was super easy.
Scott
Also, my license plates arrived today, so I screwed them on. The front one was tricky because somebody removed the front bracket. Odd, because the two states this car had lived in before both require front license plates... Ohio and New Jersey. Somebody else just drilled holes and screwed sheet metal screws into the plastic bumper skin... cheesy. I drilled the holes and tapped them for some Pozidrive screws I had in the garage from a previous MG or Spitfire. (At least it's an English solution.) The back license plate frame was already tapped for M6 bolts, so that was super easy.
Scott



