What did you do with your DII today?
#9401
The following 4 users liked this post by donniefitz2:
#9402
@WastedAccounts Pro tip: Take your old front sway bar links and put them on the rear sway bar for and additional 2 inches of travel in the back. It's a free mod.
#9403
The following users liked this post:
hasullivan (09-04-2023)
#9404
@WastedAccounts Pro tip: Take your old front sway bar links and put them on the rear sway bar for and additional 2 inches of travel in the back. It's a free mod.
Part numbers in the terrafirma TF220 set are TC986 and TC1818.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...97/#post843355
#9405
Today, Option B with flush
Hey all, been going through the D2 in preparation for a Moab trip in OCT. Today I went ahead and performed the "Option B" procedure. I took the whole unit out, figured it would be easier than trying to get the bottom plate off while still plumbed. I first sprayed each line with Kroil. (Best stuff out there; Blaster is for light weights and bolts already loose LOL) Once the unit was on the bench, I proceeded to follow the Option B instructions to the letter. I incorporated a plug as well. reassembled without issue.
When it came to bleeding the system, it too was a piece of cake. Important note, you must have access to a wife that's eager to help as this is a two-person operation. Again, I pre sprayed each bleeder nipple with Kroil. We then started on the drivers rear wheel and bled in the traditional manner of open, down; closed, up, via a cell phone on speaker. Wife in the rig, and me under. Bear in mind the D2 is running during this operation and all 4 wheels are on ramps. It took about 15 peddle cycles to get clean clear fluid. (It should be noted that we had previously bled the system last week before I had made the decision to "mod" the abs, so the fluid was already clear). You MUST bleed each wheel till you evacuate ALL the air. Once the fluid arrived, it came with lots of burping air followed by micro fine bubbles. use a flashlight and a clear line to inspect the fluid when bleeding. After the Drivers Rear is complete, relocate to the Passenger Front and repeat. DONT forget to refill the reservoir as you go. Don't let it go dry. Follow the Passengers Front with the Drivers Rear, then finally Drivers Front. You will notice that this is the order that the ABS unit is also plumbed.
Next for fun and to be a bit ****, we backed the D2 off the ramps but just enough to get it on the ground. Then I chocked the front wheels. I lifted the Drivers Rear wheel with a bottle jack and instructed my wife to put the D2 in drive and release the brakes. Once the lifted wheel began to spin the TC engaged and applied brake pressure to the wheel. Was neat to see it in operation. I did this for about 10 sec to purge any air from the TC. We did this for each wheel, same order. Lifting, spinning, TC operating etc...After "purging" (Wife just brought me dinner, Ill be right back) (Dang that was good, Steak, potatoes, and asparagus w onions) Anyways, after "purging" we drove the D2 back on to the ramps and did a second bleed to remove any air that was introduced by the TC into each line. Same order again.
Removal of unit : 20min
Mod/solder/heat shrink etc...: 30min
Reinstall of unit : 15 min
Bleed #1: 25 min
Purge of the TC about 20 min
Bleed #2 : maybe 20 min
Lots of peace of mind.
I didn't take any photos as there are plenty on this awesome board.
Big Question is there any way to up the pressure applied by the TC to each wheel. It seems that in low gear the D2 easily overpowers the TC at idle in the above-mentioned procedure. Perhaps it is more effective in application than in my limited experience. It would seem to me that if the TC were to be very effective, it would need to be able to pull the wheel down to an almost stop there by redirecting the max torque to the other wheels. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
When it came to bleeding the system, it too was a piece of cake. Important note, you must have access to a wife that's eager to help as this is a two-person operation. Again, I pre sprayed each bleeder nipple with Kroil. We then started on the drivers rear wheel and bled in the traditional manner of open, down; closed, up, via a cell phone on speaker. Wife in the rig, and me under. Bear in mind the D2 is running during this operation and all 4 wheels are on ramps. It took about 15 peddle cycles to get clean clear fluid. (It should be noted that we had previously bled the system last week before I had made the decision to "mod" the abs, so the fluid was already clear). You MUST bleed each wheel till you evacuate ALL the air. Once the fluid arrived, it came with lots of burping air followed by micro fine bubbles. use a flashlight and a clear line to inspect the fluid when bleeding. After the Drivers Rear is complete, relocate to the Passenger Front and repeat. DONT forget to refill the reservoir as you go. Don't let it go dry. Follow the Passengers Front with the Drivers Rear, then finally Drivers Front. You will notice that this is the order that the ABS unit is also plumbed.
Next for fun and to be a bit ****, we backed the D2 off the ramps but just enough to get it on the ground. Then I chocked the front wheels. I lifted the Drivers Rear wheel with a bottle jack and instructed my wife to put the D2 in drive and release the brakes. Once the lifted wheel began to spin the TC engaged and applied brake pressure to the wheel. Was neat to see it in operation. I did this for about 10 sec to purge any air from the TC. We did this for each wheel, same order. Lifting, spinning, TC operating etc...After "purging" (Wife just brought me dinner, Ill be right back) (Dang that was good, Steak, potatoes, and asparagus w onions) Anyways, after "purging" we drove the D2 back on to the ramps and did a second bleed to remove any air that was introduced by the TC into each line. Same order again.
Removal of unit : 20min
Mod/solder/heat shrink etc...: 30min
Reinstall of unit : 15 min
Bleed #1: 25 min
Purge of the TC about 20 min
Bleed #2 : maybe 20 min
Lots of peace of mind.
I didn't take any photos as there are plenty on this awesome board.
Big Question is there any way to up the pressure applied by the TC to each wheel. It seems that in low gear the D2 easily overpowers the TC at idle in the above-mentioned procedure. Perhaps it is more effective in application than in my limited experience. It would seem to me that if the TC were to be very effective, it would need to be able to pull the wheel down to an almost stop there by redirecting the max torque to the other wheels. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Last edited by Killerkaw; 09-04-2023 at 10:51 PM. Reason: spelling
#9406
Brakes are the last fluid change I have for everything to be fresh and new. Did PSF and transmission this weekend. Feeling clean!
#9407
I did, not much, but bubbles are bubbles. ended up with mico fine bubbles on the second go round. cleared out quick.
#9408
@WastedAccounts Pro tip: Take your old front sway bar links and put them on the rear sway bar for and additional 2 inches of travel in the back. It's a free mod.
Neat tip, thanks! I had to cut one out though so I only have one to swap. I'm debating just pulling the rear bar altogether too.
#9409
The following 7 users liked this post by aututto:
hasullivan (09-05-2023),
jastutte (09-05-2023),
Killerkaw (09-06-2023),
Roont (01-05-2024),
whowa004 (09-09-2023),
and 2 others liked this post.