Hey all, been going through the D2 in preparation for a Moab trip in OCT. Today I went ahead and performed the "Option B" procedure. I took the whole unit out, figured it would be easier than trying to get the bottom plate off while still plumbed. I first sprayed each line with Kroil. (Best stuff out there; Blaster is for light weights and bolts already loose LOL) Once the unit was on the bench, I proceeded to follow the Option B instructions to the letter. I incorporated a plug as well. reassembled without issue.

When it came to bleeding the system, it too was a piece of cake. Important note, you must have access to a wife that's eager to help as this is a two-person operation. Again, I pre sprayed each bleeder nipple with Kroil. We then started on the drivers rear wheel and bled in the traditional manner of open, down; closed, up, via a cell phone on speaker. Wife in the rig, and me under. Bear in mind the D2 is running during this operation and all 4 wheels are on ramps. It took about 15 peddle cycles to get clean clear fluid. (It should be noted that we had previously bled the system last week before I had made the decision to "mod" the abs, so the fluid was already clear). You MUST bleed each wheel till you evacuate ALL the air. Once the fluid arrived, it came with lots of burping air followed by micro fine bubbles. use a flashlight and a clear line to inspect the fluid when bleeding. After the Drivers Rear is complete, relocate to the Passenger Front and repeat. DONT forget to refill the reservoir as you go. Don't let it go dry. Follow the Passengers Front with the Drivers Rear, then finally Drivers Front. You will notice that this is the order that the ABS unit is also plumbed.
Next for fun and to be a bit ****, we backed the D2 off the ramps but just enough to get it on the ground. Then I chocked the front wheels. I lifted the Drivers Rear wheel with a bottle jack and instructed my wife to put the D2 in drive and release the brakes. Once the lifted wheel began to spin the TC engaged and applied brake pressure to the wheel. Was neat to see it in operation. I did this for about 10 sec to purge any air from the TC. We did this for each wheel, same order. Lifting, spinning, TC operating etc...After "purging" (Wife just brought me dinner, Ill be right back) (Dang that was good, Steak, potatoes, and asparagus w onions) Anyways, after "purging" we drove the D2 back on to the ramps and did a second bleed to remove any air that was introduced by the TC into each line. Same order again.

Removal of unit : 20min
Mod/solder/heat shrink etc...: 30min
Reinstall of unit : 15 min
Bleed #1: 25 min
Purge of the TC about 20 min
Bleed #2 : maybe 20 min
Lots of peace of mind.
I didn't take any photos as there are plenty on this awesome board.
Big Question is there any way to up the pressure applied by the TC to each wheel. It seems that in low gear the D2 easily overpowers the TC at idle in the above-mentioned procedure. Perhaps it is more effective in application than in my limited experience. It would seem to me that if the TC were to be very effective, it would need to be able to pull the wheel down to an almost stop there by redirecting the max torque to the other wheels. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

nice, good work. Do you think the second bleed after doing the traction control was needed? Did you see any bubbles?

Brakes are the last fluid change I have for everything to be fresh and new. Did PSF and transmission this weekend. Feeling clean!

 

I did, not much, but bubbles are bubbles. ended up with mico fine bubbles on the second go round. cleared out quick.

 

Neat tip, thanks! I had to cut one out though so I only have one to swap. I'm debating just pulling the rear bar altogether too.

 

Dexcool flushed and converted to Prestone green, OEM 180 t-stat, and a road trip to summit county to test it out! Never broke 200 all weekend, and never got over 186 driving, very happy!

 

I was able to get a replacement seat cover from a board member here a while ago. The clip on the bottom was cracked, so it never really held.
tried some epoxy and fiberglass to see if I can get a permanent fix.



Will trim it up once cured.

 

good on you, looking forward to doing that myself👍 .... the r and r not the flush

 

Front wheel bearing, passenger side was shot

 

Went for a drive with Betty and a trailer.
Got a new friend, hurt myself, passed out, drove to er, almost passed out, got my finger stiched back together, drove home.
Added a 1990 Discovery 1 3-door to our collection.


Was supposed to use this as a parts car for the 1991 D1, but but. this is a 3 door and that is a 5 door.
So, one more complete rebuild project for me. oh my...

 

Went out to Long Island to check out a 2004 that I'm buying to replace the rapidly-sickening 2003.


The guy who owns the lot where it was stored told me that he had another couple of Land Rovers out the back but the owners seem to have abandoned them.


The Defender is right-hand drive. Owner is Canadian, apparently.
The G4 has the Special Vehicles plaque under the bonnet, so it's genuine.