Great video. Thanks for sharing.

I like the discussion around minute 16:00 where they talked about the history of dropping ZDDP content in oils, why it happened, and how it affected flat tappet engines.

 

I love geeking out watching the stuff on his channel, tons of valuable, experiment and real world proven automotive based info.... http://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek

 

The passenger side trim was cracked and the driver side flew off in the freeway the other day. I ordered some eBay trim for 30 bucks to replace them. It took several hours to figure out the mounting tabs were on backwards but we got it after that. Looks so much better.

Also had to replace my brake booster. Managed to find one on ebay. It showed up a couple of days ago and was an easy swap. Brakes are so much better now.

Next on the list is a bad wheel speed sensor.

 

Yeah, been following these guys, Dave figured out how to address the defective timing covers (aside of finding a good one), and Lake has dispelled many oil myths with lab work and hard facts. I especially like the info on how ALL oil additives are snake oil and do more harm than good. Also how too much ZDDP is harmful, especially in additive form. Plus, if an oil has a lot of detergent (like calcium), it negates any extra ZDDP anyway. What I took away, pertaining to our engines, is that a good break-in oil should be used on a new engine (I just rebuilt a 4.6 for mine, going to use "Driven"), but after that, any quality everyday oil sb fine, and the high zinc oils can be counter-productive since they're made for different applications (like diesel). Plus, we don't have high valve spring pressures requiring anything special. If I end up eating a cam, it'll likely be from poor manufacturing, not the lack of zinc. I also like the new Valvoline restore/protect oil since our engines run so dirty, but they don't make it in 10w30/40 which is what I'd like to run. I might still give it a try in 5w30 since I'm not in an excessively hot climate.

 

For some reason it doesn't seem to be common knowledge, but for those who care to know...

The first number in the oil type listing is the temperature in Fahrenheit at which the oil itself begins to change viscosity. The second number it the weight, or thickness of the oil, whose needs are determined by the clearances built into the engine components from the manufacture. So, it is wise to stay with the weight of oil that was originally recommended, but the temp rating can be determined by your climate.

In other words, a 10w30 vs a 5w30 are near identical, as in they start to change viscosity at 5 degrees of ambient temperature difference. That make sense?

 

Yeah, that makes more sense than anything else I've heard to this point, never heard it explained like that in my years.

 

Thank you, but honestly can't claim the rights to it. It's something they taught us during a lubricants training course from Seigel Oil in Denver about 20 years ago....been repeating it to folks ever since. Always found it an easy way to remember how to think about oil designations myself though

 

Ran some errands in the Disco including swapping some propane tanks. Opened the rear hatch and noticed these nasty guys! For those not in the know, those are brown widow egg sacks! Thankfully, I knew they were new because they weren't there on Wednesday and when I squished them they were nice and gooey. If those eggs had hatched I might have had to set fire to my poor Disco. Sprayed the area thoroughly with spider spray. Got to keep a close eye to make sure they don't come back.

 

I guess I am never too old to learn something new.

I've heard of black widow spiders.

I have heard of brown recluse spiders.

I had never heard of brown widow spiders.

But now, thanks to google, I see there are brown widow spiders.

How about that.

 

I want to add a bit of clarity to the above. Temperatures are in C, not F. Perhaps long ago they were in F, but not now. The relevant standard is SAE J300. There are a bunch of parameters for a given rating, but the most static one is the Maximum Pumping Viscosity (cP) @ tempC. Also measured as key parameters are the cranking viscosity and the minimum viscosity performance at 100°C. And if you ever thought you knew the W was for weight...Not so much. "W"inter as in cold temp performance.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J300

Thanks to Mntceguy for prompting! I would have gone in in confident ignorance without his information.