Long story short.... Ha Ha....
I have had almost no issues with my 2000 LR 2 V-8 4.0 ltr "Bosch" motor. I fixed a few things when I got it. 1 plug wire was bad, i bought a whole set but gave up after I replaced the one I knew was bad. It solved the problem. I think i bought plugs also but I gave up on those also. I fixed the cruise control (it works most of the time) , and probably a few other nitpicky things.

A couple weeks back I decided it needed an alternator because the old one would not start charging until you revved the engine over 2500 RPM (something I am loath to do to a cold motor) Anyway, the new one kicks in below 2000 so that was a partial fix. I have not replaced the battery yet because it seems to be in good shape. The positive terminal however has had a problem with corrosion which is a little unexplained. The battery seems to hold 12.7 just fine. The old alternator (when working) was charging at 14.2 Just about the same as the new one.

The engine light has been on for a while and my ultra gauge seemed to think it was an under voltage on start condition, or something like that, I can not remember the codes (hint) they are gone now anyway.

So, she stumbled on me a few times this week. A couple times at speed, and a time she died at a stop sign. Both times felt like bad fuel and cleared up right away. Today however, i was chauffeuring the wife to someplace, taking the long way as usual and she stumbled hard and I coundn't get back up to speed (50mph on that road) I turned on my flashers and cringed at being that guy that hold up a little traffic (cuz I am that guy that throws a fit when somebody else holds up traffic ) Anyway, when I managed to pull over safely, I could only keep it running if I kept it above 1500 is RPM.

I checked my ultra gouge, 13.6 V 210.4 F And that is about all I know how to read on that thing. I could get it to run enough to "limp" It was not in limp mode, the 18 miles back home. The problem was intermittent. I did observe the thermostat opening and closing an the ultra gauge, so I know that was at least not letting me boil over. If I gave it the juice, it would lose power at about 2000 RPM. If it died, it would start right back up and still run like ****, but it saved me a $250.00 tow bill and made it home (at 35 miles per hour in drive)

After a fine English pint or two, I dug into it, Fault code: P1184 Great, the most generic of fault codes. I like to troubleshoot he easiest things first, and given my prior experience with beamers, i know that "Bosch" Stands for Extremely Sensitive to Bad Connections, and Dying batteries. (look it up, it is a rough translation but close enough)

I did what I though was easy. A decent inspection of the wires and hoses, Clean the air filter, (needs new one) and reseated the MAF sensor connector. I discovered one bad clamp where the (plastic) intake air hose (upstream of the MAF) joined the metal manifold downstream of the throttle body. So far my experience with the LR is that the factory hose clamps are giving up and can cause some very strange symptoms. Anyway, I cobbled together the 2 smaller clamps I had to fit, stabbed myself in the finger 2ce, and go t wat I think is a good seal (German translation Gütentight) I checked all the connections on the air plenum (including the one I fixed with epoxy a while back. AND cleaned the air filter. (I think snorkels are bad for air filters)

I then pulled the suspect battery cable, (+) and checked the main (big) wire connection on the alternator IT IS IMPORTANT TO DISCONNECT THE + terminal BFORE attempting to tighten the nut on the back of the alternator! That nut seemed to be a little loose I think when I replaced the alternator last week I chickened out (while tightening) a little early) A quick wrestling match from there with an adjustable wrench (cuz NOTHING else will fit) I felt a little more confident that it was tight (as in Gütentight)

I (finally did a very thorough cleaning of the positive terminal before replacing Somebody had tried to install a copper ring terminal on the conically shaped "factory" terminal "snugging nut". That is probably what cause the excess corrosion.

Once cleaned, I reinstalled and snugged it up with an impact driver. It did not snap off or pull off so I think I got it close to specs.

I informed the wife that I would be test driving my repairs and she should stay close to her phone. I live almost a t the end of a long road in Alaska, and I believe in taking trails instead whenever possible. A half hour later, I was having so much fun, I forgot to call the wife and tell her that the problem(s) had been solved, so she called me.

In my test drive I discovered a few things.
1. She was running better than she had in a while (so was the rover)
2. The voltage seemed more stable (at 14.20)
3. The coolant temp maxes at about 210 and goes as low as 196.
4. The check engine light was out, and didn't come back on in 3 miles of trails and 15 miles of highway)
5. I had a renewed confidence in my ultra cool 'rover" and in my abilities to figure it all out (thanks to our community!)

Conclusion
I think I am going to replace the battery anyway. A dealer friend of mine offered me a brand new yellowtop for $200 the other day and that seems like a reasonable price to eliminate any angry pixy problems. A proper winch is on the shortlist and more battery power seems like a prudent investment.
I will buy a new air filter tomorrow, and probably turn my snorkel around.
Tomorrow, I will take a much longer trip and stress the systems a little to ensure I have found and solved the problem.

​​​​​​​As slow as possible, as fast as necessary.

 

Parts arrived from Lucky8 and I was able to mount my spare back on the door with the addition of the TF spare carrier. Got my front sway bar disconnects on but didn't have time to do the rears due to only having a short window on the rack. Didn't feel like wrenching on the ground so I'll have to tackle it over the weekend when I install extended brake lines and hopefully mount an RTT.

 

Good story. In reading yours, later on it almost sounded like a fuel pump/filter issue. On my 97 D1, it doesn’t hurt in cleaning connections like battery, alternator and starter. Looks like you nailed it. Have fun up there.

 

@akkurt and get your cooling system sorted out you running a bit high likely a 190 deg thermostat. I would suggest the inline mod for simplification, or just a proper LR 180 thermostat.

 

Green disco getting some major love this weekend. Full brake job with EBC slotted front rotor and yellow stuff pads, stock replacement rear rotors with green stuff pads, new master cylinder, new review mirror with built in back up camera/gps, new cigarette lighter and usb ports in the ashtray location. Hopefully tomorrow I will be finally install the HID retrofitted 03-04 headlights I've had sitting on a shelf the last year...pics to follow.

 

Went wheeling at the normal spot a few days ago. Water was up a bit more than usual.





Video:
https://i.imgur.com/XRZs83b.mp4

Old man also picked up a TJ a couple weeks ago. 3" lift, 31" tires, 4.0, 5 speed. Sweet little rig, but I'm trying to talk him into 33s. We've been playing around on their property, but we're gonna get out on the trail soon.

 

Had my cel on for a while for an EVAP dtc. Checked everything, couldn't find the issue. Finally got a homemade smoke unit off fleabay cause I didn't have time to search around for all the parts needed to make one myself. It worked really well and I found the leak immediately; the purge valve that is mounted with the cruise control components, was leaking like it wasn't there. I had checked it before by putting 12 volts to it, and the solenoid part worked fine so I thought it was OK. Evidently the internal valve stopped sealing, causing the leak and the DTC. I pulled the valve from a parts truck, installed, cleared the code, and no more CEL! Sweet! Apparently that valve is a GM part that I found on the Flea, bc I couldn't find a new one anywhere else. I also believe that this issue may have been causing a rich fuel delivery bc I had a fouled O2 sensor recently, and after driving a bit with the good purge valve, my exhaust doesn't smell as strong/rich as it did before. Probably have better economy now. I don't usually notice since I only live 2 miles from work.. Hope this helps anyone with an EVAP code.

Link to part: https://www.ebay.com/itm/26545517856...53.m1438.l2649

smoke machine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/28233907063...53.m1438.l2649

 

Tom Woods prop shafts, blackout hood, snorkel, and Aussie style antenna to go with my GMRS radio install this weekend. Waiting on my Voyager rack to arrive to complete the exterior look I'm after. I love this rig!

 

busy last week/weekend. Swapping to the facelift headlights wasn’t terrible. Worst part was disconnecting everything so I could weld a support/mount in on each side. Very pleased with the head lights though I’m unsure the LED projector in the old hi beam position will ever get used as the main HID projector is brighter than hell and handles both low and high beam. Jury is out on the mirror as the position I mounted the camera is high and if it’s aimed to be used as a rear view mirror then it’s not as useful as a backup camera and vice versa…

Facelift with retrofit HID projector and a LED hi beam (switched separately to be used as a spot)

Mirror with front and rear facing cameras

EBC brakes on all 4 corners. Yellow stuff up front and green in the back

New master cylinder

 

details on the backup camera and the headlights? I have an 03 but curious about the new projectors/bulbs you put in there