What have you broken on the trail?
ORIGINAL: javven
Yeah - I'm told the parking brake is there on the center diff
I'm also told that there's a balancer in the mix? Not sure - I hadn't given it a serious look. I'm a big guy and getting under the rover at stock height's a bit of a squeeze. It's better now with the side steps / moulding gone and the bumpers off.
Yeah - I'm told the parking brake is there on the center diff
I'm also told that there's a balancer in the mix? Not sure - I hadn't given it a serious look. I'm a big guy and getting under the rover at stock height's a bit of a squeeze. It's better now with the side steps / moulding gone and the bumpers off.
With no lift and stock drive shafts, get an extra rotoflex at the junk yard for a couple of bucks. Even on stock drivelines hard trail rides can break the rubber coupling. This is cheap insurance if you have a stock rear driveline. I have not broke mine yet, but I have an extra anyway.
ok, i got a question. what is entailed on adding a cdl/t-case to a 2000 disco II? and how expensive/difficult to change out drive shafts to greasable?
as for the question that started the thread - ive only had a flat and broken some stupid plastic pieces (land rover calls them "bumpers" i think...) other than that put some good tires on and get a high lift jack and you will be good to go.
pilsner
2000 disco II
135k and counting
ft lewis WA
as for the question that started the thread - ive only had a flat and broken some stupid plastic pieces (land rover calls them "bumpers" i think...) other than that put some good tires on and get a high lift jack and you will be good to go.
pilsner
2000 disco II
135k and counting
ft lewis WA
About $300 to have your driveshaft rebuilt.
As for the CDL linkage, there was a post on here a few days ago about adding one.
You have several options, a new t-case, a CDL linkage or a home made lever that you have to get out of the truck to engage/dis-engage.
As for the CDL linkage, there was a post on here a few days ago about adding one.
You have several options, a new t-case, a CDL linkage or a home made lever that you have to get out of the truck to engage/dis-engage.
The benefit of having the frontdriveshaft rebuilt with greasable u-joints is not having to buy a new transmission. D2Guy have a pic of a double cardon gone bad.
A fist sized hole in the side of the transmission.
So $300 now, or $7,000 later. And when it fails there is no warning. Just BAM! and you are dead in the water.
A fist sized hole in the side of the transmission.
So $300 now, or $7,000 later. And when it fails there is no warning. Just BAM! and you are dead in the water.
maybe a stupid question: why? and how?
what vehicles does this apply to? disco I or II?
ps im a medic not a mechanic so try to use small words, speak slowly and if i watch your lips move while you speak i MAY understand what you are talking about.
pilsner
2000 disco II
135k and counting
ft lewis WA
what vehicles does this apply to? disco I or II?
ps im a medic not a mechanic so try to use small words, speak slowly and if i watch your lips move while you speak i MAY understand what you are talking about.

pilsner
2000 disco II
135k and counting
ft lewis WA
There is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers.
This applies to all DII's.
The double cardon comes from the factory without any grease zerks, once it wears out it flys apart and because it is heavy and spinning at a incredible rate...BAM! New transmission.
Medics are people mechanics, patch em up and send em down the road.
This applies to all DII's.
The double cardon comes from the factory without any grease zerks, once it wears out it flys apart and because it is heavy and spinning at a incredible rate...BAM! New transmission.
Medics are people mechanics, patch em up and send em down the road.
Here's what happens when the double cardon fails on the stock (non-servceable) front driveshaft.
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