...picking up from where I left off

...most of you guys recommended me to check the electrical to see where it was standing at, I'm planning to take the truck to Sears for that checkup sometime this week and let you all know, but no one told me which code or codes they based their recommendation on, I'm guessing only P1562 has to do anything with it, is that so?

...this past weekend I was able to have the codes re-read and cleared at an Advanced Auto Parts, the MIL light did go out, but it lit after a little while, so I'm guessing one or all of the above codes are still showing, I haven't checked that since.

...another issue that has come up these days that has to do with the electrical is that under a downpour, twice as a matter of fact, the battery and other indicator lights start flickering and flashing, an obvious electrical issue due to the amount of water pouring down. Since the plastic "PLENUM FRESH AIR INTAKE" that goes at the bottom of the windshield is completely broken, I'm guessing the water from these downpours is filtering through there, in a way that the driver's and passenger's side floor are very wet.

Oh well!

 

Hi All!

Finally was able to have that electrical checked at Sears, they found everything to be OK -battery was good and alternator was working fine. They did find the battery cables loose so they fastened them up. I'm pretty sure the sporadic battery indicator light coming on and off mentioned in my recent post was that, in fact it rained pretty well on my way there and it was coming on and off as well as others indicators flickering. After I came out of there no battery or flickering indicators, besides the 3-Amigos and MIL showed up.

I even stopped at an Advanced Auto Parts and had the codes re-read, all re-appeared except for P1562, so I guess the electrical issue must had been taken care of.

As per the remaining seven codes (P0300 - Random misfire; P0301 - Cylinder #1 misfire; P0303 - Cylinder #3 misfire; P0305 - Cylinder #5 misfire; P0306 - Cylinder #6 misfire; P1300 - Catalyst damaging level of misfire on more than one cylinder; P1590 - ABS rough road signal circuit malfunction), I will appreciate any inputs on how to tackle them, thanks!

 

First off p1300= you should stop driving your Disco until this problem is fixed or you are going to be paying $400-$500 for a new catalytic converter.

The misfire codes can be caused by several things but most of the time is from bad wires. How old are the wires? If they have never been changed then chances are they are old and have holes in them. Look at the engine running while it is dark outside and see if you see any arcing in the problem wires (no flashlight, the darker the better).

Feel the wire boots. I had a set of 8mm kingsborne wires with 60k miles and the insulation inside the boots became hard a broke into sharp pieces poking a hole in the boot when I tried to remove it.

Make sure all of the boots are snapped on the plugs fully.

How old are the plugs?

Bottom line: I would suggest installing new plugs and wires to start.

 

x1. Every modern gasoline car I've ever owned the spark wires and shrouds broke down electrically after a few years. Probably the heat build up being buried so deep in the heads.

I've always used NGK Iridium plugs over the past few years and swear by them. Not sure how they perform in a Rover though you guys probably know better.

 

Thanks Jared9220 for your feedback.

Truth be told, I've had this truck for more or less a year and half. A couple of months after I bought I took it to a Land Rover expert that a friend recommended me, I did it basically to have the codes read and have someone, besides the other "friend" that sold it, give me his expert opinion. I think that at the moment only four codes showed up: P1590 and the others referring to the misfiring issues. He did tell me that he would have to take a look from spark plugs on up to figure out why those codes were showing, and I recall that he did mention the fact that the spark plugs and wires seemed recent cause everything was dirty except for them. So I would say they were replaced almost two years ago, and I'm pretty sure with cheap parts.

So back to your recommendations, I did check last night for any signs of arcing and I saw lots of blue lighting on the LH (1, 3 and 5), but none on the RH (6), hopefully that's the culprit.

So without further checks I went ahead and ordered the 8mm Kingsborne wire set and the NGK G Power spark plugs that with the intention to get my hands dirty and replace them, which from I've read is no easy/fun task and plan to do as soon as they arrive, any info I should have beforehand?

Also, inside the truck I did find what seems to be a brand new Coil Pack left by the friend that sold me the truck, but dunno the brand, if it's the right one or if is actually a working one. Should I go ahead and replace it?

Again, thanks for your feedback and tips!

 

spark plugs and wires to start.
hold off on the coil replacement. its two separate coils firing those cylinders as per RAVE.

do the plugs and wires, clear codes and re-roadtest. as far as wires replacement, patience and do them 1 at a time. the last thing you want is to try to figure out what goes where..

 

If you are going to take the upper manifold off to change the wires then you should order a new plenum gasket.
Land Rover Intake Manifold Gasket (Same Fit As Genuine Part # ERR6621) - Land Rover Engine Parts


Do you have SAI?

 

Thanks guys!

I'll replace just the spark plugs and the wires as soon as they arrive then.

As per how to go about it, I found this post: "http://www.wicasta.com/blogs/replace-land-rover-discovery-ii-ignition-wires/", and will attempt this procedure; if it gets complicated and need to regroup, I will then have in mind the "plenum gasket" recommendation from JARED9220, thanks for that!

As per the coil pack, I will hold off as DGI07 recommends; anyways, checking out this part I have, I realized that it is a 2-piece thing for which I have one of the two, maybe only one was replaced before, the one I have is numbered 1 thru 4 and is from Richporter Technology, Part # C-506, we'll see.

Again thank you all for your support! ;-]#

...and yes, mine has SAI!

 

First things first you need a basic OBD II scanner to check and clear codes without going to a shop:

Like this one:

Or you could get one of these is you have an Android phone with bluetooth. Its a little more complex but it allows you to observe realtime data though your phone using the app "Torque".


I also agree with the advice about getting a new battery, plugs and plug wires. Those are some of the first things I replace when I get a new vehicle. I would hold off on any more expensive parts like coils until you have done the basic maintenance.

 

Hi Guys!

Finally the Kingsborne wires came in so I'm attempting the replacement without removing the upper manifold and more or less got almost everything outta the way and with some difficulty I'm able to access the whole thing.

Whomever did the last job left many things hangin' or just resting around! ...the coil packs are resting somewhere and I'm able to see the plugs from above! ...the tube that connect the two SAI valves wasn't also attached, as well as a couple of things! ...so screws are missing and getting everything fastened to where it belongs will be a new job, specially because don't know what screws to get or how to go about it!

Any feedback will be appreciated, meanwhile, I'll get back to it! ;-/#