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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 08:40 PM
  #31  
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Well guys "Mission Accomplished"! ...changed the plugs and the wire without removing the UPPER -should had though.

I was able to put the coil packs in its bracket and secured each to it with one upper screw and a tie-wrap per pack, just couldn't get to the bottom holes, and even though I brought the right size screws, they just weren't helping, nor the space, nor my position laying over the engine (laid an open cardboard box that covered pretty much everything), nor this Miami heat and humidity.

I also couldn't secure the bracket to the UPPER as it should, with the coil packs and the wires in place, there just wasn't much room to work around... felt frustrated at times, but counted to ten!

Getting everything I dismantled back in place was a bliss, this "job" really gave me a boost of confidence in tackling some other things in the near future.

The truck sounds much smoother now, the engine revs-up pretty nice, went around the block a couple times and felt good, I'll take it tomorrow for a farther and longer drive to check things out better.

No "Check Engine" light has gone on yet, and hopefully it won't, but I did had my battery unplugged for a few days since I started doing this job, we'll see tomorrow after the drive.

On thing though, big mistake! grabbed the transmission fluid bottle by mistake and emptied almost a 1/4 that was left in it into the brake fluid reservoir? what's up with that? ;-|#

Thank you guys for all the help & tips!
 

Last edited by adolfojbonilla; Aug 2, 2014 at 08:42 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 09:54 PM
  #32  
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The truck running better is a good sign. Keep us posted if any codes pop back up.

Use a turkey baster to suck out as much of the transmission fluid in the brake reservoir as possible. Then refill with clean brake fluid and bleed the brakes until new clean fluid comes out at each wheel.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 07:18 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Jared9220
The truck running better is a good sign. Keep us posted if any codes pop back up.

Use a turkey baster to suck out as much of the transmission fluid in the brake reservoir as possible. Then refill with clean brake fluid and bleed the brakes until new clean fluid comes out at each wheel.
Ok, I so shouldn't drive around with it like it is right? How much harm could have done going around the block yesterday after the sparks & wires job?

As per bleeding the brakes, dunno how to do that.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 08:55 AM
  #34  
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I'm sure you didn't damage anything, but you should just try and get the right type of fluid in there.

Bleeding the brakes is easy.

-Start at the front passenger tire.
-Make sure the reservoir is full of brake fluid.
-Crawl under the truck and connect a clear tube on the bleed nipple on the brake caliper.
-Run the other end of the tube into a plastic bottle or other catch container.
-have a helper pump the brake pedal a few times and hold pressure on it.
-While they are holding pressure on the brake, loosen the bleed screw just enough that fluid starts coming out.
-Have the person in the car tell you when the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and tighten the bleed screw back up before they let pressure off the break
-Once you have the bleed screw tight again, tell them to pump the brake again and hold.
-Repeat the whole process 4-5 times or until you see clear fluid coming out. Get out after every 2 times and top the reservoir back up. (make sure that the level never falls below minimum).

The brakes need to be done in a specific order: FR, FL, RR, RL

Get 2 large bottles of brake fluid and use about half a bottle per brake and you sure flush the system really good.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 12:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Jared9220
I'm sure you didn't damage anything, but you should just try and get the right type of fluid in there.

Bleeding the brakes is easy.

-Start at the front passenger tire.
-Make sure the reservoir is full of brake fluid.
-Crawl under the truck and connect a clear tube on the bleed nipple on the brake caliper.
-Run the other end of the tube into a plastic bottle or other catch container.
-have a helper pump the brake pedal a few times and hold pressure on it.
-While they are holding pressure on the brake, loosen the bleed screw just enough that fluid starts coming out.
-Have the person in the car tell you when the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and tighten the bleed screw back up before they let pressure off the break
-Once you have the bleed screw tight again, tell them to pump the brake again and hold.
-Repeat the whole process 4-5 times or until you see clear fluid coming out. Get out after every 2 times and top the reservoir back up. (make sure that the level never falls below minimum).

The brakes need to be done in a specific order: FR, FL, RR, RL

Get 2 large bottles of brake fluid and use about half a bottle per brake and you sure flush the system really good.
---

Do you happen to know the size of the caliper bleed screw? I might need to get the right wrench, and when you mean "2 large bottles", what size in particular? Thanks again!
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 02:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by adolfojbonilla
---

Do you happen to know the size of the caliper bleed screw? I might need to get the right wrench, and when you mean "2 large bottles", what size in particular? Thanks again!
-The bleed screw is a 11mm I believe.

-I use the big 32oz bottles for flushing and I think they are about $6 at walmart. You don't have to use it all, but since you are not just flushing old brake fluid out but the wrong fluid, more is better in my opinion.

-Here are the bleed instructions Directly from the RAVE. Bleeding instructions.pdf
(my method is a bit different. You can choose which is best for you.)
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #37  
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Thanks again Jared9220, already bought everything and will tackle it your way tomorrow, but today I did suck everything out of the reservoir -below a photo of it. I figure that the upper liquid is the transmission fluid, the amount seems right from what I poured in by mistake! ;-}#

The second photo is for the record, shows the mileage (128656) at which the sparks & wires were replaced, the MIL light off (hopefully for good) but the 3-Amigos still around -that'll be the next issue to solve! :-}#
 
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 01:57 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jared9220
-The bleed screw is a 11mm I believe.

-I use the big 32oz bottles for flushing and I think they are about $6 at walmart. You don't have to use it all, but since you are not just flushing old brake fluid out but the wrong fluid, more is better in my opinion.

-Here are the bleed instructions Directly from the RAVE. Attachment 22126
(my method is a bit different. You can choose which is best for you.)
Thanks again Jared9220 for all your help. Following your instructions I was able to bleed the system with no problems. I used the Valvoline fluid, and since it's clearer I was able to actually see when all the old fluid was flushed out. You were spot-on on the bleed screw, it is an 11mm!

I finally was able to take the truck out for a really good drive yesterday after all had been done, the sparks, the wires and the brake system bleed. No MIL lights had gone on yet, hopefully it won't, or at least not for the previous codes, I have driven for over 50 miles since the job and nothing yet!

The 3-Amigos are keeping me company though, I guess that'll be my next mission, should I choose to accept it! ;-]#

Thank you all, this is a great Forum because of all your help, tips and tricks!
 
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 02:24 PM
  #39  
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Here's an update guys...

After Land-Rovering for a while MIL-free, these two codes came on:
P0420 - Catalyst efficiency deteriorated - LH bank (NAS & EU-3 only); and
P1590 - ABS rough road signal circuit malfunction / Hardware is OK, but SLABS ECU is sending an error signal.
The last one is a repeat, it had cleared after the sparks and wires replacement.

Again, any feedback will be very much appreciated, thanks!
 
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 08:11 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by adolfojbonilla
Here's an update guys...

After Land-Rovering for a while MIL-free, these two codes came on:
P0420 - Catalyst efficiency deteriorated - LH bank (NAS & EU-3 only); and
P1590 - ABS rough road signal circuit malfunction / Hardware is OK, but SLABS ECU is sending an error signal.
The last one is a repeat, it had cleared after the sparks and wires replacement.

Again, any feedback will be very much appreciated, thanks!
The 1590 is a rough road ABS fault. You probably need to do the ABS repair in the sticky section to fix it.

The 0420 is a bad catalytic converter. More than likely you plugged up the cats while driving around with the misfire codes for an extended period of time. Sorry to say this but you need to bust out the wallet and pull out some more cash. You can either buy the whole new y-pipe or you can try and but just a new cat and have a muffler shop cut the old one off and weld a new one on.

I just installed a new Magnaflow Cat and it ran me $500, but I could change it out myself. Davco makes one for around $360. If you want to have just a cat welded on it should cost less, but you probably want a pro to do the work.

The scrap yard was going to give me $80 for my used Y-pipe but I thought it was worth a little more so I passed on it, but you can get a little money back.
 
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