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Whining Noise from Engine. Unable to Isolate

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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 06:28 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by number9
Good way to check alt, ac clutch and pulleys is to remove the belt and spin them by hand. If going bad you can normally feel or hear them with the hand spinning. If bearing not trashed you can grease the pulley bearing by first removing pulley, using a small pick to remove the bearing seals, using a needle fitting on your grease gun and reinstalling seals. Replacement sealed bearings for the idler pulleys are also available and easily replaced if you have the tools.
......
This^^^^^

Remove the belt and spin each pulley...feeling for roughness, drag or binding. Listen as you spin each one, too.

While the belt is off...start it up (for a short period of time, don't let it over heat) and see if there is no noise. If there is still a noise...you may want to reinvestigate your oil pump work.

Brian.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 06:58 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
While the belt is off...start it up (for a short period of time, don't let it over heat) and see if there is no noise..
Excellent advice that should quickly eliminate all belt driven pulleys/accessories if noise still present.
......
 
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Old Dec 3, 2016 | 06:23 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by MaineDisco2
Oh I forgot to mention I changed out the Tensioner as well. Could this noise be a result of added tension on the serpentine?
My bet is that the added tension created noise from the idler. The new alternator did not change the noise.

An easy way I've used grease to check tensioner/idler pulleys is to spray white lithium grease on bearing while hot (after running engine, spray with engine off) and allow to cool. During cool down, the warm bearing will draw in the sprayed on grease. Subsequent start up may show a change in noise.

Good luck, and keep us posted.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 09:57 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by NickAdams
My bet is that the added tension created noise from the idler. The new alternator did not change the noise.

An easy way I've used grease to check tensioner/idler pulleys is to spray white lithium grease on bearing while hot (after running engine, spray with engine off) and allow to cool. During cool down, the warm bearing will draw in the sprayed on grease. Subsequent start up may show a change in noise.

Good luck, and keep us posted.
Still seems to be coming from the area of the alternator. It has the most vibration and the sound is loudest there using the ear to metal trick. It could also be coming from the new Tensioner pulley but I can't imagine that it didn't come properly lubed. I have greased all the pulleys and still have not solved this mystery.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 12:32 PM
  #15  
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Couldn't you reinstall your old alternator just to confirm?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 12:35 PM
  #16  
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Default Problem Identified

So I took the belt off and ran the motor and had no noise.

I stopped into Land Rover and they quickly identified a bad bearing in the Alternator. So I took out an alternator with a bad bearing and replaced it with an alternator with a bad bearing. What are the odds?

The End!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 02:09 PM
  #17  
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It's a rover so the odds on replacing one bad part with another are close to 90%
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 08:08 AM
  #18  
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Default Alternator Whine, The Sequel!

So I just put in a brand new Ultima alternator. Guess what? It still whines!!!!

Metal to ear trick still tells me its the alternator. Interestingly a notice came with the new unit that says a tight tension pulley and serpentine can cause the noise.

The removal of the serpentine did make the noise go away but now I'm going to remove it, again, pull all the Idlers, again, and grease all the bearings, again.

Likely to go insane shortly. HAHA!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 05:15 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by MaineDisco2
So I took the belt off and ran the motor and had no noise.

I'm going to remove it, again, pull all the Idlers, again, and grease all the bearings, again.
First did you take the time while the belt was off to rotate all the movable pulleys/idlers by hand including the alt and ac clutch pulley?

Removing just the belt to access the pulleys/idlers and not the the new alt I assume. While off check them all by hand/ear again. It's also a good idea to remove your fan/clutch to easily rotate H2O pump pulley to eliminate it.

A semi-effect way to grease the pulley/idler bearings is to use a small pick or scribe, remove the grease seals and use a grease gun w/needle. If done carefully and the bearings aren't ancient the seals will usually go back in sans damage. The ac clutch pulley can also be removed and bearing greased.

After doing mine last year read a thread here that cautioned against using typical grease you may have laying around. Electric motor grease was recommended and found a Mobil product. Mobil Polyrex EM, Electric Motor Bearing Grease 105330.
......
 
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