Driver's window. Goes down about 3/4" inch and stops. Won't go down any further. Try to roll it back up and I can feel the door frame "flex" a little under my left elbow, and then a loud "crack", and then the window goes up.

Just started yesterday, but it does not happen all of the time. Sometimes it goes up and down just fine.

I'm thinking the winding mechanism needs replacing, or else has slipped out of alignment.

Anyone else with experience on this problem?

Thanks,

Bob

 

If the window moves up and down, your "winding mechanism", or motor, is fine. The window tracks bolt to the door and chances are those bolts have come loose. The window is slipping out of alignment.

 

Or your window regulator is shot which is pretty common.

 

Thanks guys ... sounds like either way the inside of the door has to come off.

Any advice on how to do this without tearing something up?

The window does not seen to have any play in the tracks, tried wiggling it about halfway down and it seemed pretty steady. To me it sounds like the drive grar and the quadrant gear are getting hung up, maybe there's some play between the gears?

I think I may have caused - or at least accelerated - this problem, because my window was frozen (just before Christmas) and I got it moving by rocking the mechanism back and forth. Live and learn.

Thanks,

Bob

 

All I know is that if I were you, I would try everything in order to avoid messing up that door panel. If you are pretty handy with tools, try taking it off yourself. Inspect around to obvious attachment points, and remove fasteners accordingly. Be careful not to pry or bend the panel too severely.

I've never taken one off but what I'd do if I got stuck, is call up a Rover dealer! Ask for the service department, then ask the service guy/girl if they have any tricks to avoid damaging the door panels while removing them.

If the first dealer doesn't help you out, maybe the next one will. Call 'em until you get a cool guy on the phone that'll help you out.

-Justin

 

Using the RAVE CD, I found all of the attaching points for the panel clips, then used a butter knife to snug up against each panel clip and slowly/carefully pried the panel off (after removing all of the appropriate screws first at the arm rest, door handle, and at the bottom of the door). I was able to salvage every plastic panel clip but understand that I was lucky to do so. It isn't all that difficult if you just approach it "gently".

 

Bingo!

 

I didn't have any problem removing my panel but knew what to expect as I spent my youth installing stereos and speakers for everyone and their brother. I had the same type of noise happen just after I bought my Disco II and found out that one of the plastic wheels in the regulator broke. They are not designed to be replaceable so I rigged up a replacement myself:

I used a metal fender washer sandwiched between a 1/4" barbless t-nut and a nylon spacer; then I drilled out the rivet post on the arm and cut a 1/4" bolt to fit along with a nylon washer. It has worked great for the last 3 months and the only thing I think I should have done is to put some locktite on the bolt thread.

 

door panel comes off easily with removal of a few phillips screws and the trim plate around the inside handle. Remove all of the screws and lift up on thepanel and it should come right off, but begentle with it until you can disconnectthe speaker wire.

 

Sorry I've been out of pocket for the past couple of days. Appreciate everyone's advice, and I'll try this as soon as I can and report back. I did this a few times in my youth as well, but that was on both a '79 Olds and a '76 Corolla. (Actually took the old regulator out of the Corolla, left the door panel off, and used a cut-off broomstick to prop up the window for a couple of weeks until I could get to the junk yard for a replacement.)

Since this car is a bit more complex, and expensive, will approach with more caution but I appreciate the advice.

Bob