Wiring harness from CPS to ECM
#1
Wiring harness from CPS to ECM
I posted on other threads issues that I was having with intermittant starting. I asked my mechanic brother-in-law to take a look and he determined it is the wiring from the CPS to the ECM. All symptoms pointed to a bad CPS but it has been replaced multiple times correctly. No RPMs register on scangauge when cranking. Occasionaly it does start and RPMs register.
I assume the plug located so conveniently is bad but getting to it to fix is impossible. I was thinking about getting this section of harness from a junker and either replacing completely or splicing in to make it longer and more acessable.
Has anybody done this?
I assume the plug located so conveniently is bad but getting to it to fix is impossible. I was thinking about getting this section of harness from a junker and either replacing completely or splicing in to make it longer and more acessable.
Has anybody done this?
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zuke (09-20-2016)
#3
#4
Firewall cut
I think I got this figured out. A 2'x2' cut in the firewall under the gas pedal will give me access to pull the bad plug through and repair with this:
BWD PT5915 - Electrical Connector | O'Reilly Auto Parts
There is a heat shield in the engine compartment to remove. I will secure it back with screws in case I need access again.
BWD PT5915 - Electrical Connector | O'Reilly Auto Parts
There is a heat shield in the engine compartment to remove. I will secure it back with screws in case I need access again.
#6
How was the wiring diagnosed to be bad? Did the circuit for one of the pins test bad or intermittent for continuity? I'd hate to see you go through this effort only to find that the problem was a corroded connection at the ECU, bad ECU, damaged flex plate, etc.
I don't understand why you'd want to cut a hole in the body for access. There are other options available, not the least of which would be loosening the body mounts and raising the body away from the frame/engine if you just can't reach. I've found that accessing the back of the engine is so much easier after installing a 1" body lift, you can do it temporarily with some wood blocks just to get access.
If the plug or wiring are truly bad, I'd go and spend half a day at a U-pull yard scoping it out, attempting to get the replacement connector off a donor. You'll learn a lot about how you want to attack it, and possibly get an OE replacement for a fraction of the cost of that O'Reilly part.
I understand the logic, but I would not recommend cutting a hole in the body. Potential to cause collateral damage, and it will never be the same.
I don't understand why you'd want to cut a hole in the body for access. There are other options available, not the least of which would be loosening the body mounts and raising the body away from the frame/engine if you just can't reach. I've found that accessing the back of the engine is so much easier after installing a 1" body lift, you can do it temporarily with some wood blocks just to get access.
If the plug or wiring are truly bad, I'd go and spend half a day at a U-pull yard scoping it out, attempting to get the replacement connector off a donor. You'll learn a lot about how you want to attack it, and possibly get an OE replacement for a fraction of the cost of that O'Reilly part.
I understand the logic, but I would not recommend cutting a hole in the body. Potential to cause collateral damage, and it will never be the same.
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