The fuel rail clips are not necessary. They are for factory use in pre-assembly to install all the injectors at one time. Once installed, the four bolts that mount the fuel rail secure the injectors.

BTW, the 7/8 washers in the leftover bits are crush washers for the 7/8ths banjo bolt on the ACE pump. The factory did not torque some year models properly and they would leak like a sieve. Fix was to simply tighten to proper spec. If you over tighten then the washers must be replaced.

 

Extra bolts, nuts, parts, and other bits and pieces are not a good thing .
I would never let anyone work on my car or give me advice when they say it's okay leave parts off.
When it comes to the fuel system I would not cut corners and risk a fire. You wouldn't want to burn up your family because you didn't want to take an hour to go back do things the right way. Just my honest opinion

 

I did go back (even before Palmetto's post) and put them back on. Took my entire work night because I had to remove the intake 2 extra times. Once because I pinched the evap hose slightly underneath the intake, and once because at the last crank of getting it back on, my ratcheting box end wrench broke and the parts fell down into the coolant elbow and right into the inlet manifold. Got it out with a magnet but still had to do some additional disassembly (all parts of the wrench accounted for).

And good news, no other leftover parts. I have 1 bolt to put back on the oil pan (one of them I took off just wouldn't go back in, no clue why, other bolts would go in that hole but it wouldn't go in any of them so I ordered an extra one).

Tonight's the big night, will fill the fluids up and get the engine started.

Then, it's right back up on the jack stands to change diff oil, transfer case oil, ATF, and then driveshaft rebuilds. Oh, brake bleeding too.

E: Jared your thread was a huge help this entire project, thanks!

 

"my ratcheting box end wrench broke." I knew there was good reason to NOT own one of those things; the other is that they are too damn big to do most of what needs to be done in most places on engine. A "slow poke" common box end wrench never breaks, at least in my experiences, and you can slip it in almost any tiny working area. If area you need to work is too small for common box end wrench, you really didn't want to take it off, did you?

 

Haha, well here's the even worse part, that wasn't even the end I was using. It just decided to fall out.

Good news! Started the engine up last night and after it warmed up and oil started circulating to quiet it down, all seems to be well. No drips! I discovered an exhaust leak at the manifold to down pipe connection, so new gaskets will be needed there.

Also my A/C compressor doesn't seem to want to kick on anymore. Any ideas? I'm going to test the line to see if there's voltage coming to it. Actually I can't tell you if it ever was working, I didn't have a need to keep it cool for the first two months that I owned it because it was winter, and then the engine had it's problem. I was careful and I don't think I pinched the wires anywhere.

Engine temps are 207 when idling and 203 when the heater is running. Dips a couple degrees when I give it some gas. I haven't been able to drive it around yet, still have some finishing up to do. I think I'll do another flush after driving it for a bit because despite running 4 gallons of distilled water and then 4 gallons of green coolant through the system, it's still coming out a bit yellow-orange. Did do the reverse flush on the heater core though and the waterfall has gone away.

I'll share some other success to, I rebuilt the power steering pump (which had been leaking and filled with some kind of stop leak by the PO) using this kit: Power Steering Pump Seal Kit for LAND ROVER Discovery II 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 and there are no visible leaks. I'll have to report back after I drive it around for a bit to confirm that, but it's made it 0.2 miles around my back yard and driveway without leaking so far.

Well, better get out to work on the rest of the items on the list:
- Diff fluid changes
- Transfer case fluid change
- Transmission fluid and filter change
- Brake bleeding
- Drive shaft rebuild