A while ago, I had some regular black or grey (can't remember now) Permatex RTV laying around and I was told that would be fine to use on the water pump gasket (and bolts) and inline thermostat gasket, bolts and plug. I found later that I probably should have used the silicone gasket for the inline thermostat and red sealant on the rest of everything - probably should have got the better water pump since I live in a hotter area. It's installed, but I'm wondering if that's going to be a problem or if it'll still hold up with the coolant temperature. This was all assembled a while ago and I'm unsure if I should redo it or not. I know it's very difficult to remove sealant - maybe there are methods I'll have to find out, just hoping it'll be alright.

 

looking at the website for both the gray and the black permatex, you should be fine.

the gray permatex even says it's ideal for waterpumps.

black says it's good for Oil pans, timing covers, transmission pans, differential covers. i would think you would be okay with that.

 

I have used Black/Grey RTV for ages on WP gaskets. Now when I mean I use it I mean a finger dab amount along both sides of the gasket. Then slap it together, in all the years of auto repairs I've never had one leak. Inline thermostat wise the re-useable gasket that's like 10.00/20.00 (depending on where you buy it) has worked flawless without a single dab of RTV. Key to that inline setup is getting the thermostat perfectly centered before tightening it down.

 

i always disconnect the housing and center up the thermostat and silicone gasket. i'm not coordinated enough to do that in situ.

 

The RAVE does not specify using any sealant on the water pump gasket.

I installed the one on my truck dry nearly four years ago and all is well. Surface prep is the key, not making up for that with sealant. Google ROLOC.

 

I was installing a new front cover since the original broke when putting in a fitting for a pressure test. It was barely in finger tight and it broke... not fun

I just got a new water pump, so that and the new front cover were good and clean. I'd been told to use sealant and the gasket by others who know a lot more than me (same process for the inline thermostat, which I believe it says in the guide - gasket with sealant on each side), so that's what I did, then tightened the water pump bolts to 16 lb ft - I believe I tightened the inline thermostat bolts that much as well. I have a pretty good feeling about it now after being shown the grey silicone should be fine. To me it seems like it'll hold together well, but I need to finish the rest before starting it and testing - just repaired the rat-chewed wires (had to remove parts to get to it all, put all the wiring in new tubing and taped it up), now I need to remove the upper intake, replace the coil packs, new wires/plugs, belt and fan, either remove front driveshaft and start it like that or get it rebuilt or replaced and start it after. I'd rather not drive it anywhere until the DS is dealt with and I know all the systems are working well - oil, water, PS. Lots of flushing and bleeding needed here still.