Thx LTS!

Installed 6 gang accessory controller (amazon) for lighting, and down the road for the locking diffs. Took about 6 hours. I used the GN wire under driver kick panel for reverse trigger to relay. I used WG (at C0572) under engine bay fuse box for power to 6 gang controller. All the wires ran nicely under the right A pillar finisher. Drilled a hole into firewall for extra wiring. Look at the double relay wiring for rear lights. These will come on in reverse, and if I want, I press the controller to turn them on, too. This requires TWO relays as in the diagram. This way, power only comes from one source at a time.

 

more pics:
thinking about making an ash tray adapter for controller. It fits perfectly in that spot! These are my old school eagle eye spotlights. had them since my first 1998 disco...stainless housing looks good.

 

I ended up going with OEM switches when I did front a rear lights in my ‘00. As it was a non-SAI machine, I was able to build a separate relay/fuse box and put it where the pump for SAI is most machines. I got lucky and didn’t need to drill any holes in the firewall and ended up being able to use the grommet that you would use to push the WSS sensor through if you did the Amigos fix of wiring straight to the SLABS.

I like the idea of being able to turn on the reverse lights only when I truly need them, but the way you wired it is very clean and nice.

 

I used OEM switch for fog lights. I have previously shown how to wire the OEM cluster switches using a latching relay, which makes wiring them easy. I chose the 6 gang switch because you only have to run ONE cable from the driver compartment to the relay unit in the engine bay. Super easy. And you can get extensions for this cable if you need it. Plus, this 6 switch controller has memory, so you can turn them all off or on, depending on last setting Also has auto dimming....

 

Hey XRAD,

Thought I would hi-jack your thread instead of the other. hope that's OK.

Did you find a spec or documentation about the data stream to talk to the head. I have been looking for a C/C++ project to re-hone my skills, and this could be it. I will look around, but if you found a link, please share it.

 

I'm working on it now. I found some arduino C++ code for BMW Tx Rx packets, but it might be a bit of a challenge. I can't find the LR disco 2 iBus hex codes yet.....this will be a neat project if I can get it working. But the simple answer is Grom BT3 interface.... BMW / alpine developed the code during these years...plenty of info on BMW...but little on LR(hope they are similar!).....I have a few options going...will post soon...

Plan is to get just get the basic CD player codes so that I can interface with the data at the CD harness....I am just looking for a way to add BT for music from phone, but not make calls or anything extra...

 

I made a faceplate mount for the ashtray. It is held in by a bit of clear silicone....The ashtray is removed and this slides in, screws hold the switch panel to the faceplate. I will run the cable behind the dash.

STL files here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6649552

 

Added a second coolant temp sensor ( in addition to OEM gauge). The sensor location is not ideal (next time I'll add a 1/8 NPT tap next to OEM sensor). But I chose the top radiator side of T hose for 2 reasons. 1) As long as my thermostat is open, I can get coolant temp. 2) I can see if my T stat is 'working' because the coolant temp jumps up at >180 degrees F. Trade off is that the coolant temp is always lower than the ECT sensor in intake. I did test a four wire ECT range rover harness lead on a 4 wire coolant temp sensor pairing 1+2 and 3+4 . Unfortunately, the gauge I have read just about 1/2 of true value. The gauge is an Amazon cheapy, BUT...it is very accurate! Tested multiple times in heated pot with laser and mechanical temp sensors. In the car, it is within .5 degree of my laser sensor. Pretty good for ~25$ (includes inline hose adapter and sensor and enough wire). 3D printed a mini mount for A pillar finisher so it sits pretty well. ~9$ thin metal 52mm gauge mount (that's x3 for ~9$). I passed the sensor lead thought the firewall grommet driver side with ease. Used LR YMQ104550 adapter from D1 wiper motor upgrade. Fits perfectly into S12 plug hole in driver fuse block. Just tapped into IGN ON and ground and added a fuse (to be changed to 5A soon). The cheapy gauge comes with adjustable alarm set. I don't think it holds setting without power though. It comes preset at 212 which is nice. Note: the 32mm inline hose adapter has too small a diameter. I ordered a 36mm.

Best way would probably be to use a cylinder head temp sensor.......

OEM 4 wire sensor does not work with my gauge









My electric fan comes on when at this temp.

 

Or use the existing block drain ports on the side of the block...

 

Thx Extinct. I was thinking about a direct thermistor sensor for true head temp, not reading the coolant temp.....either way would work....but probably overkill......