well, so far every bolt came out no issues, and they all look brand new. I do not think this engine has ever been apart.....no major coolant corrosion...very clean intake....it had new spark plugs, plug wires, and oil filter. The flex plate was cracked. The RR body was in good shape and the interior was clean...so I suspect someone took care of this for a while.....will see as I get deeper into it....
Hey @XRAD you mentioned a heated windshield in your original post? That's the first I've heard of it - can you provide me more details? I'm a NOOB, but I have this weird spotty thing going on with my windshield at night that looks like mini disco ***** in it, and I'm wondering if that's related.
look very closely at your windshield, if it has little wires in it, it is the heated version. you can also open up the hood and look for the two wiring connectors in the windscreen drip tray, one on each side near the hood hinges. if you have more questions, start a new thread about it.
I may be ordering those soon. I have the ones from RTE, but I've gone thru 2 "Heavy Duty" drive shafts. The first one that came with the RTE kit lasted about 10K.
The second one from Abran at CARS4X4 lasted about 3KK. I dont know if the lift angle is too steep or is related to the castor arms. I recently moved to Reno, NV for work and found British4X4of Reno. Brian is the shop owner and is awesome with his attention to detail and work. Apparently the Tom Woods driveshaft company is aware about the front drive shafts failing on lifted D2's and is working with Shane there to build a proper HD shaft. I lube my drive shafts every other oil change. When I get my truck back to the shop and on a lift, Brian is going to look at the lift and angle to see if the RTE castor arms correct the degree of angle properly. If not I am going with the same setup as XRAD. I have the modified WATTS Linkage from RTE and have had no issues in the rear. My new custom Tom Woods shaft should be coming in about a week. If I was going to do this again, I'd still buy the RTE kit minus the drive shafts. I'll update when the new shaft comes in. Im currently in 2WD at the moment.
I wonder if my RTE driveshafts will be affected. been on for a few months and 6K miles or so
look very closely at your windshield, if it has little wires in it, it is the heated version. you can also open up the hood and look for the two wiring connectors in the windscreen drip tray, one on each side near the hood hinges. if you have more questions, start a new thread about it.
Engine teardown continues.....everything very clean. plugs with fairly even burn. fairly even carbon in all cylinders. OEM head bolts and OEM LR composite head gaskets on both sides. No dropped liners. cam lobes smooth. even smooth wear on push rod ends. Took the usual 4 foot breaker bar on a 1/2 drive 5/8th deep impact socket, and my son holding the engine stand. But, they all came out in one piece and with no aluminum packing or corrosion in the threads. crank turns over very smoothly by hand. hone marks still in all cylinders.
a note about tools. I bought an Eastwood engine stand to replace a old stand. It has a crank on it. This makes a WHOLE world of difference when dealing with a 400lb V8. It is designed to fold up as well. But honestly, all the reviews were right...like ' the welds are not the best' or 'some of the holes don't line up completely'....and 'the box came beat up and missing bolts'...all of these are true. but it is a few hundred less than a similar style from another vendor. And I like how it has four fairly well spaced wheels for balance, and they are all cast iron (no bearings, though). Four casters instead of two would have been nice.....but I could always add those...
. plugs with fairly even burn. fairly even carbon in all cylinders. OEM head bolts and OEM LR composite head gaskets on both sides. No dropped liners. cam lobes smooth. even smooth wear on push rod ends. Took the usual 4 foot breaker bar on a 1/2 drive 5/8th deep impact socket, and my son holding the engine stand. But, they all came out in one piece and with no aluminum packing or corrosion in the threads. crank turns over very smoothly by hand. hone marks still in all cylinders.
