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Yet another tire and lift question

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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 06:33 AM
  #1  
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Default Yet another tire and lift question

Sorry for beating a dead horse here, but everyone seems to have different outcomes when it comes to fitment. My '99 has a ton of miles (308k) and some frame rot so I don't want to put too much into replacing items that aren't easy to remove and swap over. I know it needs tires, and needs shocks

It currently has 265/70/16 which I know some people say fits and some people have problems with rubbing. I currently have very little with the exception of when I am turned to lock

I would like to go a hair larger, am looking at 265/75/16 which should be roughly 31.7 diameter. I don't want to go smaller in case I lift, and I don't want to go too big where it's undriveable at stock height since I plan on doing a small lift in the next few weeks.

I also am debating on the lift. I was originally going to do a 2" terrafirma setup, but am wondering if I should just get new shocks and 1" spacers all around and call it a day. Is there any discernible difference in wear on components between 1 and 2"? I know that people have said that 3" is where you start having issues with other stuff, but I don't want to thrash everything too badly seeing as how I'd like to get another year or 20k miles out of this truck. If it doesn't make a difference, I will probably just go for the 2" as it doesn't end up costing much more and I get new springs that are matched to the shocks as part of the deal

Lastly, is 265/75/16 a good size for a 1 or 2" lift? Could it be driven as is for a few weeks in the interim?

Am mainly looking to add a bit more clearance for deep sand

Thanks in advance-
Chris
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 07:19 AM
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265/75r16 should be an easy fit with lift and should be plenty drivable without. I ran 265/65r18s (31.6) for some time without lifting and didn't get any rub at all, even at full flex at full lock.

I think most people that get rubbing at that height have springs that are sagged out of factory spec. Mine were within spec when I replaced them. As far as increased wear, at 2" lift you won't notice the difference. It will be negligible. I'm at 3.5" with stock components other than springs and shock mounts, even stock shocks, and have yet to have any issues at all. I believe Charlie is at 3.75" with all else stock and his likes to eat driveshafts, but only after tens of thousands of miles and that's almost 2" more than you're looking at. So yea, two should be safe.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 08:16 AM
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I agree with that. With + 2 inches your tires (260s or 265s) should clear and there won't be any problems with components unless your driveshaft is already near death, and maybe not even then. You should be able to put +2 springs in and get by with zero other changes. For comparison, my + + + lift required longer brake lines and shocks, abs lines routed, and an adjustable panhard bar... and really should have corrected radius arms. Plus that work revealed other things like an old driveshaft and wobbly ball joints (it just doesn't pay to poke around on a rover), and instead of lengthening the turn stops I put 2 inch wheel spacers in, which look great but cause another problem. I think +2 is a perfect lift. Slap it on and drive away .

When my tires wear out, if they ever wear out, I'm going to your planned tire size.

I'm not sure your planned tires would work with no lift, though, or with a 1 inch lift. 2 inches is the minimum lift where you see and feel a difference.

You can just adjust your turn stops if you get any rub at full turn.

Alex has a good memory and I am at 3.75 unless my rover is sagging like the rest of me. I gripe about driveshafts but they still last at least 10,000 miles. It is just a maintenence item; no big deal.
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; Jun 7, 2016 at 08:38 AM.
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 10:03 AM
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Thanks guys, will go with this tire size and the 2" lift. I totally agree about it not paying to go poking around...I'm already over your what I spent on the car in parts and upgrades and that's before the tires and lift. Fixing little things here and there will really add up. Debating at what point it would make sense to get a parts car already, but mine has frame rot so it would be silly to part out something better than mine
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Manbeer
Thanks guys, will go with this tire size and the 2" lift. I totally agree about it not paying to go poking around...I'm already over your what I spent on the car in parts and upgrades and that's before the tires and lift. Fixing little things here and there will really add up. Debating at what point it would make sense to get a parts car already, but mine has frame rot so it would be silly to part out something better than mine
Wow that's true. When I took mine out of the garage after sitting 5 years I replaced springs, tires, did the lift, new panhard, new drag link, shocks, put an ARB bumper, replaced the hubs, ball joints, engine, cracked windshield facia... And I don't know what else. Geez it adds up to thousands. And when you go poking around you find things that you could have lived with a very long time,... unlivable.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 11:27 AM
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As far as the frame rot is concerned, you can buy rear frame sections that you cut out the old and weld in the new. I think Atlantic British has them. Nit sure what they cost, but a good option to keep an otherwise good truck on the road.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 02:35 PM
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I would add for future readers that it is never a good idea to put new shocks on sagged out factory springs. You'll wear them out very quickly and be back at square one.

It doesn't sound like Manbeer is leaning that direction but it was in the original post as an option with the one inch spacers.

You'll buy yourself around 10k miles with that option.

You'll be perfect with the 2" lift of your choosing which includes springs and shocks. If you don't have airbags in the rear then you'll need springs there too.

Keep in mind when they say "heavy duty" they mean heavy load hauling duty. Weighty items like metal bumpers, roof rack, winch, cargo, passengers, etc... Don't buy heavy duty unless this is what you have and plan to do.

Read the specific choices carefully to make sure you get the setup applicable to your actual needs. Extra heavy duty just means a super stiff ride if you don't actually have that weight on it regularly.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
As far as the frame rot is concerned, you can buy rear frame sections that you cut out the old and weld in the new. I think Atlantic British has them. Nit sure what they cost, but a good option to keep an otherwise good truck on the road.
While i have a sentimental attachment to almost everything i own (it kills my wife) considering the mileage and the fact that it's really not in amazing shape otherwise I'll probably just have a go at another D2. I also SUCK at welding...it's one of those things that i have always wanted to perfect and never got around to. I'd imagine that if I do anything, I may just fab up a couple braces for the rear of the frame. I am curious how many miles I can get out of this thing though...it's like the energizer bunny!

Originally Posted by Dave03S
I would add for future readers that it is never a good idea to put new shocks on sagged out factory springs. You'll wear them out very quickly and be back at square one.

It doesn't sound like Manbeer is leaning that direction but it was in the original post as an option with the one inch spacers.

You'll buy yourself around 10k miles with that option.

You'll be perfect with the 2" lift of your choosing which includes springs and shocks. If you don't have airbags in the rear then you'll need springs there too.

Keep in mind when they say "heavy duty" they mean heavy load hauling duty. Weighty items like metal bumpers, roof rack, winch, cargo, passengers, etc... Don't buy heavy duty unless this is what you have and plan to do.

Read the specific choices carefully to make sure you get the setup applicable to your actual needs. Extra heavy duty just means a super stiff ride if you don't actually have that weight on it regularly.
Funny you mention that, I was actually debating as to which springs to get. I typically will have a brush guard with some lights up front so not much weight there, a roof basket until i find a deal on the real oem roof basket, and a few passengers with some recovery gear. Am thinking that medium will suffice. I wont risk towing as there is some rot on the rear frame, so the heaviest thing on the tongue of the hitch will be a carrier with maybe 100 lbs of outdoor gear at times.


I am going up to the local pep boys next week as they are having a great special on Cooper Adventurer AT's, which seem to be their private labeled version of the Discoverer. Buy 3 get the 4th free, plus a 70 dollar rebate, bringing the price to 365 plus installation for 4 in 265/75/16
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 06:19 PM
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When I just had the extra weight of an ARB bumper medium springs were perfect but regular would have caused the front to dip.

When I added a winch, medium didn't cut it anymore.
 
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