It’s important to determine whether you are not seeing a VSS signal on the GM side or you are just seeing a very low VSS signal on the GM side.

Factory settings for the VSS in the GM computer read a fraction (less than 1/10) what they need to be for the Rover signal coming from the ECB. If you get up to 60 mph and it shows like 4 mph on the GM side, then the signal is good, but the settings/tune in the GM ECM are wrong. In that case, it shouldn’t really matter, because the ECM still knows when the value is non-zero. You can have the GM ECM reset to match the values in the manual to fix this problem if you want, but it should work even with them at the fraction.

On the other hand, if you are going 60 mph and the GM side shows zero, then the VSS wiring is the problem. In my experience, butt connectors will not work for this circuit, nor will poor soldering. These are low voltages that don't do well with extra resistance in the wiring. Interference can occur - that is why the factory GM wire is a twisted pair.

Maybe if I made an amplifier would help to make the wiring easier. Also perhaps shortening the (usually long) VSS wires to go directly from the ECB box to the GM ECM and not through the harness would be better as well.

 

This might be a silly question but I didn't readily have the answer in my mind and it is rare that I don't at least have a clue...

Why do we need to use the Bosch maf and the GM maf? I understand needing the GM maf to feed info to the GM pcm. What would the body control module or the gm pcm need to get from the land Rover maf?

Maybe I read the instructions wrong. That's what I swear the ACE instructions stated.
Thanks

 

I think it was mentioned before... Need the Rover maf because transmission uses it to shift. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

I wanted to let everyone know that I put a step-by-step guide together for solving low idle situations here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/en...10/#post822676

 

For anyone struggling to remove the torque converter bolts here's a video of how I tackled it. Worked pretty well. The point of entry is the rubber plug below the starter on the passenger side.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QtUaQyvByGMnhDpJ7

 

Aaron, thanks for that. I'm sure it'll come in handy when I fire up.

 

I really wish mine was that simple. It wouldn't have been an issue because that's how rave shows it and that's the first way I tried to access them. Why mine is/ was different is beyond me. Not that it matters much because that engine and flex plate/ torque plate won't be going back in.

 

Out with the old!

Question: the hard line that runs along with the fuel line for the canister purge (evap, I think?)... What did you guys do with that? Do you delete the system? Plug it?

 

I was assuming that was the evap also. I believe ACE recommends you connect the evap system. Then again I don't know if that means it does anything or if it was them saying please don't freeze our bank accounts epa.

Evap should look something like this on the manifold I believe. https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4...rge-solenoid-1

 

Problem is im using a sheet metal style intake manifold. No provisions for it. Is there any downside to deleting it all the way back to the fuel tank? Will there be a strong fuel odor? Will my truck catch fire? Lol