When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I retained the EVAP and Cats as they are required in Colorado. Cats are easy but EVAP will be a pain if your Rover uses the "positive pressure" pump system as it's literally the opposite of the system used by GM to test for system leaks (GM uses vacuum to test for leaks).
I ran a Summit radiator with dual electric fans and aluminum shroud. In Florida, I bet you will appreciate the dual fans. You can activate the fans in HP Tuners by changing to discrete fans (versus variable speed) and then removing the speed adjustment (this reduces fan speed above 45mph but, with discrete fans, it ends up turning them off instead of slowing them). There are also in-line thermostats you can get that trigger fans at a specific temperature.
Below are some photos of my set-up if you're interested. Note that I swapped the intake and battery location to retain the factory GM airbox.
Love the setup. Can you share part #s for the radiator and fan shroud? I'm still on stock rad with 16" fan with no shroud. Def need a shroud for the summer months.
Also which year/vehicle air box did that come out of? It seems as though the one that came with my engine was way too big to fit. Perhaps I didn't play around with it enough.
I made the shroud out of a sheet of aluminum from Metal by the foot.. Bent it on a brake and hooked it over the radiator with foam tape on the inner edges to insulate and seal it so it pulls 100% through the radiator. The fans are the 3500 cfm thin puller fan set.
Last edited by Elderair; 12-07-2022 at 08:53 AM.
Reason: Adding text
Here's the radiator I used. I had to fab up mounts for it so you may want to stick with the stock unit unless you're running into issues. I was having some overheating issues going up I70 in Colorado (6% grade at 70mph is rough) so I put in a larger radiator...then found out that the GM computer was turning off the fans above 40mph. I also fabbed up a shroud like Elderair but if you're using the Summit rad they make a rad + shroud + fan combo that is perfect.
I’m taking lots of notes !! You guys have done great job. Bouldercharles looks like your AC and Alternator are on opposite sides from what I’m used to seeing. You must have fabricated that as well?
I didn't use the ACE kit so I kept the GM P/S pump & alternator and then a Sanden AC compressor (using Dirty Dingo mounts). I like knowing that I can get replacements at any auto parts store for relatively cheap, although it did make getting the A/C set up a bit more effort as I had to get new lines made.
I didn't use the ACE kit so I kept the GM P/S pump & alternator and then a Sanden AC compressor (using Dirty Dingo mounts). I like knowing that I can get replacements at any auto parts store for relatively cheap, although it did make getting the A/C set up a bit more effort as I had to get new lines made.
Are you running a GM transmission or the LR? Also, how are you interfacing with the LR computers? Dash working?
I'm running the GM 6L80e and am proud to say the dash is fully functional without any warning lights. :-)
The electronics are the hardest part, and why I think the ACE solution is the ideal option for most people. I tried the RW-Eng CANbus but there were still issues as of last year (they may be resolved now). I ended up bypassing the Rover's engine computer and most of the BCU by creating my own gateway with Arduino (it uses CANbus to read engine data from the GM ECU and then recreates the signals the Rover is expecting). Honestly, I spent more time on the gateway than the physical swap. If you're very fluent in programming and electronics, this is a viable solution.
After I finished my gateway, I learned more about the approach ACE uses, which is probably a better solution. They apparently keep the Rover ECU and BCU and then recreate the signals the Land Rover expects to see (e.g., duplicating the GM's coolant temp sensor signal and sending that to the Rover's ECU so the Land Rover is happy). If I were to do it again, I'd likely take this approach, although I might still use Arduino to create those signals since I'm more familiar with Arduino than electrical engineering.
F_N_MOT is almost always caused by an engine speed issue (e.g. from the LR crankshaft position sensor circuit). This either can be a problem with the sensor itself, the wheel, the position, or a voltage irregularity. The conversion box with the kit used now does not have to do with that circuit.Since your problem only happens at when you start the engine, it makes me think that the sensor, the wheel, and the position are probably okay, since it works all the time otherwise. That leaves voltage irregularity. These sensors are very susceptible to voltage irregularities and the sheathing from the factory does not seem all that great at blocking things out. Things that can cause issues:
- too few grounds from frame/body to engine block
- running power leads (especially the starter wire) too close to the sensor or its wire
- wire too close to electrically noisy parts (coils, alternators)
- electrical parts going bad (bad battery - voltage being pulled low during start, bad alternator - causing electrical noise)
- running wire in the same loom with higher voltage lines
- bad continuity from ECU pins to harness
I think you should take your CKP wiring out of the loom it is in and separate it. I’d move it around to different routing options and see if that improves. Since it only happens when you start the Disco, I’d double check how your starter power lead runs and move it as far away from the Rover CKP wiring and sensor as possible. I know this can cause issues because I just helped another person troubleshoot the same issue and this was the culprit. Basically, when the power is given to the starter, the large amount of power going through the starter line was creating noise in the close-by CKP wire, but it was fine otherwise when the power to the starter relay was off.
However, it's also possible that you need to change your sensor positioning relative to the wheel. Sometimes the sensor needs to be a little closer, just depends on the particular sensor.
I have developed an option that uses a different sensor in place of the Rover CKP sensor, which is much less sensitive to voltage irregularities and easier to align, but I have not finished testing it fully.
M&S lights are apparently no longer an issue! Thanks for the heads up about removing the starterwire from its close proximity to the Rover ckps! Started the beast a dozen times and it's dead solid with no lights flashing. Now I've got to fix the circiut A knock sensor input voltage low code on the GM ecu and add my 1" spring spacers and then I can hopefully turn the wife lose in the beast as needed. Tonight I'm replacing a leaking front pinion seal and may drive it in cdl with the front driveshaft removed and see if it's the multiple dual cardan driveshaft that is causing my driveline vibration every 20 mph or so.
@bouldercharles Interesting approach. Is all of this being done to keep traction control and the abs working?
Your engine bay is the cleanest I've seen for these swaps. I like how you located the P/S, alternator, and compressor. Was that your disco on the TFL youtube channel?
M&S lights are apparently no longer an issue! Thanks for the heads up about removing the starterwire from its close proximity to the Rover ckps! Started the beast a dozen times and it's dead solid with no lights flashing. Now I've got to fix the circiut A knock sensor input voltage low code on the GM ecu and add my 1" spring spacers and then I can hopefully turn the wife lose in the beast as needed. Tonight I'm replacing a leaking front pinion seal and may drive it in cdl with the front driveshaft removed and see if it's the multiple dual cardan driveshaft that is causing my driveline vibration every 20 mph or so.
Great to hear that you found the issue. Like I said, that wire is very susceptible to electrical interference. Since it only an issue when starting, that narrowed the possibilities.
In other news, I have completed the Compushift to Land Rover conversion module. I’ll setup another thread to discuss, but it lets you use the Compushift to control the transmission without losing the dash or shifter gear indication or causing the M and S error lights. It also allows the factory mode switch and indicator to work with the Compushift.
12-07-2022, 06:23 AM
