Discovery 2 LS Conversion
#1391
Nothing crazy but this method has always worked for me: reset the switch, cycle the key forward to light up the cluster, then back off, remove the key from ignition, close the door, lock the vehicle, unlock and try to start it. I’ve had to do this twice on one occasion.
#1392
edit: I didn’t read your reply right and answered my own question. Sorry, it’s early here. Lol
#1393
strangely, my ABS module is making noise (electrical) even when the key is off and the ABS relay is removed...
#1394
#1395
Yeah I think I am all set. I need to finish the trans lines when the fittings arrive and then prime the motor with oil (fresh build) then it should start. Both ECUs are talking with no codes. I had ACE do the Rover harness and BP Auto do the LS harness and computer to eliminate some troubleshooting if possible. The challenge I have had is never having had a Rover before and I got this truck with no engine in it, so I didnt take it apart. But I am feeling pretty good about where it is now, hoping to have it fire up by the weekend. Thanks for everyone's help
#1396
Yeah I think I am all set. I need to finish the trans lines when the fittings arrive and then prime the motor with oil (fresh build) then it should start. Both ECUs are talking with no codes. I had ACE do the Rover harness and BP Auto do the LS harness and computer to eliminate some troubleshooting if possible. The challenge I have had is never having had a Rover before and I got this truck with no engine in it, so I didnt take it apart. But I am feeling pretty good about where it is now, hoping to have it fire up by the weekend. Thanks for everyone's help
I just got my AT’s (275/65r18) mounted yesterday. I’m freshening up the front steering components and new front oxygen sensors and will be taking it on the first out of town voyage this weekend. I just rolled over 250 miles on the swap. 🙏🏻
The following users liked this post:
mtsuji90 (04-12-2023)
#1397
Man that is looking killer!!!
Here is another shot in the dark..When I finally got the inertia deal figured out, things in the truck were working fine, including the shift lock for the trans....At some point today, that stopped working. Brake light switch is working and I can hear it clicking the relay but the lock solenoid isnt working...Also, my TCase is in Neutral ( I think) but I cant get it to change gears even with the trans in neutral. I added the Ashcroft CDL shifter and it does the CDL fine. I assume the TCase has a lock down on top of it?
The dash indicator lights up correctly for the gear chosen (if I manually unlock the shifter...). It feels like a blown fuse or something but I dont see any labeled transmission or TCase in the truck or in the engine bay
Here is another shot in the dark..When I finally got the inertia deal figured out, things in the truck were working fine, including the shift lock for the trans....At some point today, that stopped working. Brake light switch is working and I can hear it clicking the relay but the lock solenoid isnt working...Also, my TCase is in Neutral ( I think) but I cant get it to change gears even with the trans in neutral. I added the Ashcroft CDL shifter and it does the CDL fine. I assume the TCase has a lock down on top of it?
The dash indicator lights up correctly for the gear chosen (if I manually unlock the shifter...). It feels like a blown fuse or something but I dont see any labeled transmission or TCase in the truck or in the engine bay
#1398
Thinking about this more. A while back, Losinov and I had a discussion on my build thread about the routing. I think this was what he did. I have the Y in the 5/8 line.
5/8 inch water pump outlet -> 5/8 hose -> heater core
3/4 inch water pump outlet -> 3/4 hose -> 3-way connector with pipe from overflow tank -> heater core
Something like this should work for the 3/4: https://www.amazon.com/Joyway-Union-.../dp/B07C2TDCBV
5/8 inch water pump outlet -> 5/8 hose -> heater core
3/4 inch water pump outlet -> 3/4 hose -> 3-way connector with pipe from overflow tank -> heater core
Something like this should work for the 3/4: https://www.amazon.com/Joyway-Union-.../dp/B07C2TDCBV
I did the Y out of the main return instead of the 3/4 outlet from the water pump. Is that going to be a problem ?
#1399
Man that is looking killer!!!
Here is another shot in the dark..When I finally got the inertia deal figured out, things in the truck were working fine, including the shift lock for the trans....At some point today, that stopped working. Brake light switch is working and I can hear it clicking the relay but the lock solenoid isnt working...Also, my TCase is in Neutral ( I think) but I cant get it to change gears even with the trans in neutral. I added the Ashcroft CDL shifter and it does the CDL fine. I assume the TCase has a lock down on top of it?
The dash indicator lights up correctly for the gear chosen (if I manually unlock the shifter...). It feels like a blown fuse or something but I dont see any labeled transmission or TCase in the truck or in the engine bay
Here is another shot in the dark..When I finally got the inertia deal figured out, things in the truck were working fine, including the shift lock for the trans....At some point today, that stopped working. Brake light switch is working and I can hear it clicking the relay but the lock solenoid isnt working...Also, my TCase is in Neutral ( I think) but I cant get it to change gears even with the trans in neutral. I added the Ashcroft CDL shifter and it does the CDL fine. I assume the TCase has a lock down on top of it?
The dash indicator lights up correctly for the gear chosen (if I manually unlock the shifter...). It feels like a blown fuse or something but I dont see any labeled transmission or TCase in the truck or in the engine bay
#1400