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I retained the EVAP and Cats as they are required in Colorado. Cats are easy but EVAP will be a pain if your Rover uses the "positive pressure" pump system as it's literally the opposite of the system used by GM to test for system leaks (GM uses vacuum to test for leaks).
I ran a Summit radiator with dual electric fans and aluminum shroud. In Florida, I bet you will appreciate the dual fans. You can activate the fans in HP Tuners by changing to discrete fans (versus variable speed) and then removing the speed adjustment (this reduces fan speed above 45mph but, with discrete fans, it ends up turning them off instead of slowing them). There are also in-line thermostats you can get that trigger fans at a specific temperature.
Below are some photos of my set-up if you're interested. Note that I swapped the intake and battery location to retain the factory GM airbox.
What's the part number for the alternator/power steering pump bracket.
What's the part number for the alternator/power steering pump bracket.
You did this in Denver? I'm local- would love to buy you beers or coffee and pick your brain about it (and see it in person). Let me know if you're interested please- really nice conversion there!
Hey Guys,
I've been driving this baby around for a whiles now, got my wiring sorted out.. Was having problems with M&S flashing along with TC & HDC which was pretty much caused by a half assed bunch of wiring crimps.. I re did everything with a proper solder and haven't had an issue since... So suffice to say she's running perfectly and it's been close to a year now I'd say. Only thing I'm wanting to correct now and dosnt bother me unless I'm plugged into the GM computer reading live info, but still not getting a speed signal... Reads 0...but the dash works as it should, no problem there.
Hey Guys,
I've been driving this baby around for a whiles now, got my wiring sorted out.. Was having problems with M&S flashing along with TC & HDC which was pretty much caused by a half assed bunch of wiring crimps.. I re did everything with a proper solder and haven't had an issue since... So suffice to say she's running perfectly and it's been close to a year now I'd say. Only thing I'm wanting to correct now and dosnt bother me unless I'm plugged into the GM computer reading live info, but still not getting a speed signal... Reads 0...but the dash works as it should, no problem there.
Why do you reckon this is?
Bad connection to GM VSS or the GM ECM is not programmed correctly. Usually, if the GM ECM is not programmed correctly it will show speed, but it will be a fraction of what it should be. So if you are going like 60mph, it'll say like 5mph from the GM ECM. Watching the speed when moving is a good way to test to find if that is your issue before going into the wiring. If it is 0 all the time, probably the wiring.
If you redid all the wiring with soldering, then it's probably the programming. VSS wiring could also be getting interference.
Bad connection to GM VSS or the GM ECM is not programmed correctly. Usually, if the GM ECM is not programmed correctly it will show speed, but it will be a fraction of what it should be. So if you are going like 60mph, it'll say like 5mph from the GM ECM. Watching the speed when moving is a good way to test to find if that is your issue before going into the wiring. If it is 0 all the time, probably the wiring.
If you redid all the wiring with soldering, then it's probably the programming. VSS wiring could also be getting interference.
When you speak of the VSS wiring, are you talking specifically about the under dash wires coming out of the little black box? I ask because I have this end I cut off from my PSI harness as there was nothing to plug it into...it was a VSS plug though.
Looking at my Live Data Log - I show 0 speed but at about 77 seconds into my drive it registered 94 km/h randomly, up to and after that point its all zeros.
Does this issue affect drivability or shifting perhaps? Everything seems fine to me otherwise...
When you speak of the VSS wiring, are you talking specifically about the under dash wires coming out of the little black box? I ask because I have this end I cut off from my PSI harness as there was nothing to plug it into...it was a VSS plug though.
Looking at my Live Data Log - I show 0 speed but at about 77 seconds into my drive it registered 94 km/h randomly, up to and after that point its all zeros.
Does this issue affect drivability or shifting perhaps? Everything seems fine to me otherwise...
Looks like a bad connection or interference. Those VSS wires are very susceptible to interference (twisted to reduce interference). They also are intolerant of excess resistance in the circuit (e.g., too many connections or splices). I’d use the twisted wires on the GM harness all the way from the GM ECM back to the ACE box. Might want to separate them from the rest of the bundle or wrap them in extra shielding.
Make sure that the plug on the ACE box is getting good contact. Since it appears to have worked for a brief second, that could be something.
No real effect on driveability or shifting, except sometimes it may cause a low idle condition. If you don’t have the low idle condition, then I wouldn’t worry about it too much. But I get wanting to get it working.
Thanks @CaptainAaron
I had no idea about the twisting of the wires, it should be noted in the manual I think...I can say for sure right now mine are not twisted at all.
I will recheck my connections and if that doesn't do it I will pull it out and twist them up.
I did have a low idle issue where if I peeled out of somewhere right after starting up, the engine would die when I stopped...hasn't happened for a while but I'm also not peeling out of anywhere anymore lol.
After I redid my wiring here it did seem to idle quite low on 1st start to the point like it seemed it would die, but it didn't and now doesn't do it at all...I assumed computer reset and it was figuring itself out though..
Thanks @CaptainAaron
I had no idea about the twisting of the wires, if it were that important it should be noted in the manual I think...I can say for sure right now mine are not twisted at all.
I will recheck my connections and if that doesn't do it I will pull it out and twist them up.
I did have a low idle issue where if I peeled out of somewhere right after starting up, the engine would die when I stopped...hasn't happened for a while but I'm also not peeling out of anywhere anymore lol.
After I redid my wiring here it did seem to idle quite low on 1st start to the point like it seemed it would die, but it didn't and now doesn't do it at all...I assumed computer reset and it was figuring itself out though..
Usually, the factory GM harnesses have those VSS wires twisted. Aftermarket ones used to do it too. If someone new was doing the swap, I’d recommend to just snip the VSS plug off the end of the GM harness and use the twisted VSS wire on the GM harness to route and solder to the ACE box. It’s not essential, just helpful.
For your case, could also just wrap it in EMI wire shielding, that is simpler than redoing it.
Chances are though, probably just a bad connection. I'd take a look at the plug first.
ok, figured it out, looks like the fabled manifold from eBay with the body. ordered one of those. Actually, for the sake of intro, I have been lurking for a while, making sure I gathered as much info as possible. This weekend I bought a lovely 2003 that had been painted/gasketed/all plastics replaced, 2" TF lift, updated front shaft, CDL converted and all new leather inside. Motor blew, got yanked and he gave up. I also went and drove a chevy 1500 to verify a good motor (sadly an iron block, but whatever) so I snagged the engine from that. I ordered my ACE kit, a BP harness and computer, Truck Norris cam/spring/pushrod setup with new lifters (will reseal engine while I am in there) aforementioned intake, max clearance F-Body pan and pickup, summit manifolds, etc.
I look forward to getting after this swap and I am sure I will have lots of questions!
01-21-2023, 08:14 AM
