Awesome, thank you for confirming! I agree that some video directions for the tricky parts would be very helpful.

 

Thank you for pointing this out, I'll have to read up on the HD clutch plates. I've only 94k on the clock but since my tq will be increasing a little it might be worth looking into perhaps at this time.

I'm going to try to get the motor in on my next day off, I'll worry about figuing out a return-less fuel solution perhaps after, I already bought the expensive stand-alone harness with multec connectors so I don't like the idea of having to buy different injectors or a pigtail adapter when I could have just ordered that to begin with had I known. So my hope is I can find the proper year silverado to have the return-less system I need that works with my same injectors..... I hope that exists, I believe it to be a later year silverado without flex fuel. Not sure what year exactly, most my stuff was 99-02 but this might need to be an even later year. I'm headed to spokane for the week starting today and there's a couple huge junkyard, I'll procure a starter and a cable controlled throttle body which will leave only fuel rail issue. All of this could be installed after the engine is in though so I'm not deeply concerned at the moment with it other than the fuel rail which is only frustrating because I don't know exactly what I need just yet. Once all of this comes together I've no doubt it'll be ridiculously simple. I'll continue to take pics of any part of this that isn't absolutely brainless as I have been doing so far.

It might be best to just create a youtube slide show showing the instructions over the photo in a step-by-step manner, maybe I'll try that, applying the instructions and highlighting key areas in photos and such.

 

I did a write up on my solution for the trans cooler lines.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...zf4hp24-97300/

 

Similar to what i did.

 

Bellhousing swapped! Only took 15 minutes. I did make a short clip explaining it but until that's uploaded on youtube etc........

I realize these instructions have now been explained 3 different ways by folks but I suppose what might be missed in one or another could help someone who's about to do this step until video footage is up.
Supplies
1. I cut sch40 pvc 1-1/4 pipe at 37-1/8th" in length, HOWEVER I WOULD CUT THIS SLIGHTLY LONGER AND SAND IT TO FIT, start with an extra 1/8" inch perhaps. I would have preferred sch80 for strength. This particular length snugly fits inside the seal of the shaft when carefully inserted and provides a sure and foolproof seating that can't be wiggled loose once wedged tight against the frame rail toward the front of the vehicle.

2. I purchased black annealed wire from Home Depot in the hardware isle. I would have preferred something a little tougher but this stuff is reasonable enough and up to the task.

3. In the same isle at Home Depot I purchased 5 nuts for 1/2" bolts to act as spacers. You'll just slide these on the bolts so that they're not too long since the bell-housing won't be there to take up a half inch of thread on the bolts.

Steps

1. I removed the outer most bolts, these were short bolts in length, I set them aside, they'll be the last thing you install when you're done, 15 minutes from now hopefully.
2. I removed all but 5 of the inner most bolts, which were longer. I left 5 that mimicked a car bolt pattern to balance the load. See the photo below with 5 bolts marked in red. (Ignore the fact that the photo shows the new bell-housing)
3. At this point in time, you can wedge in your 1-1/4" PVC pipe. You'll want to slightly tilt up the transmission to get the PVC pipe to insert without damaging the seal. It'll slide in an inch or so. When it does, wedge the pipe against the frame rail. The length of the pipe should allow for a snug fit.
4. You should have substantial pressure against the transmission at this point but nothing insane, more than you could hold with hand-strength though no doubt, I was able to push it into place by hand, no need for a hammer or anything. Now in my case, I used the wire I bought to anchor the pipe in three opposing directions, like a 3-blade airplane prop. The point is so that you can't accidentally bump the pipe loose from the frame rail which will likely happen when you drop the bell-housing on it etc. So tie this end of the pipe in place as I explained. There's holes in the frame rail that provide an upper left and up right direction and I used the tie rod below to act as a downward anchor point. Convenient! In my photo, I had cut the wire loose already, so ignore that fact ha!
5. By this time you could and probably should install the short bolts you took out in step one and install them into their original holes but from behind! These act as an anchor point to pull from and to tie back to the rear cross-member or similar. I SHOULD MENTION I SKIPPED THIS STEP ENTIRELY AS YOU SEE IN THE PHOTO because I felt I had quite a solid amount of pressure up against the pump by the pipe alone and I had used wire to be sure it wouldn't knock loose at the frame rail, it was quite secure. I don't think I'd recommend skipping this step generally but I did and I found it easy since my pipe was of perfect length and I felt confident in the pressure it was providing.
6. I removed the remaining bolts and carefully slid the the bell-housing down the pipe which was firmly and safely secured on both ends. I let the weight of the bell-housing rest on the axle and tie-rod, which worked well. Then just put in the bolts (the 5 longer ones marked in red in the photos below) with the 1/2" nuts acting as spacers and snug them down firmly because you'll need them to be holding the transmission together as you remove the pipe.
7. Cut the wire up front securing your pvc pipe, and remove the bell-housing hand it to your wife, in exchange for your beer.
8. Drink a little of that beer, not a lot, you still could screw this up.
9. Grab your NEW bell-housing provided in the kit. Note the orientation of the starter hole etc as shown in the photos below when installed and slide it onto the pipe. Again, reinsert the pipe as you did previously and anchor it back into place with wire so it can't be jostled.
10. Remove those 5 longer bolts with the 1/2" nuts acting as spacers.
11. Slide on the bell-housing, orient it correctly and begin installing the 5 bolts yet again but without the extra nuts since the new bell-housing will take up the space from here on. TIGHTEN THEM FIRST BY HAND IN A STAR PATTERN, THEN SNUG THEM IN A STAR PATTERN. We do not want to allow this paper gasket behind this whole mess to be seperated so we're providing constant and equal pressure as able!
12. Once you've got the 5 bolts in, you're safe and the stress is over! Re-install the rest of the long bolts around the shaft and then the shorter ones finally around the outside ring.
13. Finish that beer.

HERE IS THE BOLTS I LEFT FROM STEP 2

 

QUESTIONS:

1. I see Daedrix has bolts in the very outer ring where there's tabs around the welding, note in my photo my holes aren't filled as they don't go anywhere, should I have something more going on there?

2. I ordered my standalone harness already and I need to source a returnless fuel rail still.......
Anyone know what year and specific model truck I can search at a junkyard that will have the same multec injector connections that my custom harness has on it and is a returnless model? I understand that it may be a newer model, perhaps an 05+ but are there flex fuel models or will my injectors from my LM4 not work etc.? I don't know the combinations here of what I'm looking for and sadly I already bought a $600 dollar standalone harness so I'd be bummed to have to buy pig tails etc.

-Greg

 

1. My kit was one of the very early beta kits. Your kit doesn't require the tabs. Note how yours is fully welded on the top right wheres mine is not.
2. You can modify your return style rail to be returnless by using a 5/16 round stock. Then plug the vacuum line on top of the intake manifold

 

Fannnnnnntastic man!

I'm happy to modify it to work! Saves me time and money. Thank you yet again!

 

I see that you may already have a way to modify but to answer your question, I have an L33 from a 2007 Silverado 1500. I believe car-part and other parts places call it a Silverado 1500 classic. It has a returnless fuel rail and multec injectors. I have pics if you need.

 

Much appreciate the follow-up, two choices isn't going to hurt! I'll search this out, I'd prefer this route but I'll block it off if I can't find local cheap option like you pointed out.