Back to back 80-85hr work weeks...... haven't got to touch the motor.

I guess I can just try to do the bell-housing/tranny bit myself solo.... just hope I don't screw it up.

EDIT>
Ok, stuck......

I'm reading through the bell-housing and transmission bit. I'm unclear what is being accomplished with the mating changes. I'm holding positive pressure on the pump, what 1/2" spacer are we talking about installing at the end with the 5 bolts? I don't know what I'm installing here. Really this portion should be a youtube video showing the components applied and exactly how it's being done.

Furthermore when we're told to hold pressure against the pump with a pipe between the cross-member, is that to mean WEDGED against the cross member or just held with hand pressure? If I need more serious pressure I could cut a pipe to fit and wedge it in place if need be. I don't have any desire to mess this up and honestly I suppose this is why I didn't finish this many weeks back when the kit arrived. I did pretty much all the work from the day I got the kit through today in the very first couple days and then here I sit. A step by step with more photos would be nice on this part at the least. I don't mind just figuring it out but........ not when it means destroying the paper seal.

 

The bolts that hold the bell housing on also hold the pump on, if there is no positive pressure on it it will leak fluid out and possibly destroy the gasket. What needs to be done is wedge a pipe against the pump, take the bell housing off and use some of the bolts and some washers to hold the pump on while the pipe still has pressure applied then you remove the disco bell housing and pipe. The next step is to position the modified 4l60e with the pipe through it wedged against the pump, remove the bolts you installed to hold the pump on then install the bell housing. Its sounds pretty janky but you other option is to remove the trans mission and set it up right to swap the bell housing.....that's a lot of work.

 

Understood and thanks for the reply. So I will be wedging the pipe in for pressure. I wasn't sure at first if I was just holding it by hand or if I need a lot of pressure but it sounds like a lot more by wedging the pipe is the right call. When I read "inner" and "outer" bolts I wasn't sure what was what, there are 4 different distances from the center so I just want to be sure not to screw this part up! lol

 

Whoa, WTF - can you post the actual instructions? This kit requires the installer to adapt the 4L60 bellhousing to the ZF pump?

 

Yeah...... and I don't think you'd prefer em over what is explained by Daedrix as it's much the same but yes I can and will when I get home.

 

The method using wire also works well and is not as difficult. It’s best to use both. Basically you need to keep the seal on the pump while you loosen the bolts.

Steps:
1. Remove all but 5 or 6 of the inner ring of pump bolts (keep the 5 spread evenly around the input shaft)
2. Use removed short bolts (4) to screw into backside of pump housing
3. Anchor wire from short bolts to something solid (either transmission or crossmember)
4. Place pipe between input shaft and front frame rail to hold additional pressure.
5. Remove last 5 bolts (all long)
6. Remove bellhousing and slide over pipe (being careful not to remove pipe)
7. Reinsert and tighten the 5 long bolts removed with a 1/2 inch spacer, against the pump (just to hold the pump in place, will need 1/2 inch spacer on bolts)
8. Remove pipe and bellhousing
9. Place new GM bellhousing over pipe
10. Place pipe between input shaft and front frame rail
11. Remove 5 bolts and spacers from the pump
12. Slide bellhousing over pipe into place
13. Reinsert 5 long bolts with thread sealant (tighten to hold bellhousing in place)
14. Insert the remaining long bolts with thread sealant
15. Remove pipe
16. Remove short bolts and wire
17. Reinsert short bolts and torque all to proper spec.

Alternatively, this can be done with the transmission outside the car with the bellhousing facing up. A video is a great idea.

The GM bellhousing is not as deep, therefore the engine sits over an inch further back in the bay. This lets the factory fan fit in between the radiator and the engine and the hood to close. Also lets the GM starter/flexplate spacing to be used.

Feel free to send emails with questions.

 

^ Now THAT is crystal clear.

Next day off I have, it'll be done in a couple hours at most.







<Edit, I see the wife mentioned she saw an email, a request for follow-up on the install/progress etc., I'll get some info back on that which will hopefully be helpful>

 

Yes that is not as confusing, but looking at the photo it appears the bellhousing is welded to the rear flange, is this a new bellhousing that is included in the kit?

BTW, for those not familiar with the 4HP transmissions, the front clutch is right behind the pump and if you were inclined to upgrade to HD clutch plates and replace the front pump seals now is the time to do it. It can be done with the transmission in the truck.

 

I think i've read the whole thread two or three times now and this is the first time i'm seeing anything mentioned about the 4L60 bellhousing... is this an optional step for the conversion or 100% necessary?
I don't think I saw any mention of the bellhousing in the Google Sheets parts list either. If it is necessary then it would've been nice to know this initially when I was browsing junkyards for my donor engine. I could've picked one up at the same time.

 

modified bell housing is included in the kit. No need to source one.