Hi all,
Need some help on fixing a problem with my reverse lamps...they only come on after the car's engine gets warm, say twenty minutes of running.
This is bugging the life out of me; an auto electrician told me he couldn't find a fault.
The car DID have the TC/HDC warning lights problem which knocked out my tail lights, hence a new brake sensor... I'm sure the reverse light problem is part of the chain reaction from that.
Have checked the reversing switch, the connector along the circuit and the connection plug behind the bootspace light They're all fine. Haynes reckons the TD4 has a reverse relay...anyone know which one it is (I can't work out which one it is they're talking about)? Fuse F2 blows sometimes too.
And there's been a terrible leak under the threshold strip in the boot...half an inch of water filled the jacking compartment and all the way to the back seats. Wonder if that's somehow damaged my wiring. The car's a 2003 model...the warranty expired and everything went wrong grrrr!

 

Take care of the water leak for starters. TRY THIS: WITH THE KEY ON, ENGINE OFF- PUT THE TRANSMISSION INTO REVERSE AND ALSO CHECK YOUR BRAKE LIGHTS, IF BOTH WORK THEN GOOD, PROCEED TO THIS NEXT CHECK. HAVE A FRIEND STAND AT THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE TO WATCH OPERATION OF THE LIGHTS, FROM KEY OFF, GO DIRECTLY TO CRANKING ENGINE OVER WITH FOOR ON BRAKE PEDAL, IF BRAKE LIGHTS GO OUT, OK, PUT TRANSMISSION INTO REVERSE- IF REVERSE LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON, REMOVE STEERING COLUMN SHROUD AND USING THE HANDLE-END OF A SCREWDRIVER OR SIMILAR OBJECT TO TAP ON THE IGNITION SWITCH AND SEE IF THE REVERSE AND BRAKE LIGHTS ILLUMINATE. IF BOTH SETS OF LIGHTS COME ON WHEN DOING THIS AND THEN FAIL AGAIN NEXT IGNITION SWITCH CYCLE, THEN YOU NEED A NEW IGNITION SWITCH(JUST THE ELECTRICAL PART). I had a freelander in my shop exhibiting the same condition, abs lights on and setting a brake switch failure fault code accompanied by what I described above(NO REVERSE LIGHTS/BRAKE LIGHTS UNDER THESE CONDITIONS). When going to the crank position, a gap opens in the contacts that feed to that circuit. The vehicle's radio and wipers also did not function. Replacing the ignition switch resolved the issue. Post back after trying and let me know how it went.

 

Hi Tacomatech,
It isn't the ignition switch...that's working fine.
Something within the brake wiring is causing fuse F2 to blow. I now suspect it's the trailer wiring, neatly taped up in my jacking kit compartment. My leak was worst in there and I think the moisture could have started a problem.
Not sure how to isolate the trailer wiring as it seems to go straight to the fuse box. I can't find any way of disconnecting it.
Plus my TC HDC lights are still on and my local LR specialist isn't around until Wednesday