02 RR HSE, Things to know
Hey,
I am looking at this Rangerover 02 HSE, Fully Loaded, I mean everything. Its got about 107k Miles, but the Air suspension isn't working properly. I can pick the car of for $2,000.00 Which i prolly will, but I'd just like to hear some things from other Rangerover drivers about the SUV in general, what to look for etc.
The owner of the RR says that it needs a sensor for the front & back, and that it would set it up to level itself out. Atm the front Drivers side, and both sides of the back end of the car are basically sitting on the tires (mabby a centimeter off the tire) It is sitting on un-even ground. I had it running for about 30 mins and it wouldn't even its self out, so if anyone can let me about the possibilities and potential Costs that'd be awesome.
I plan to pick it up drive it for a little bit till I can sell it, I figure 2,000 is a steal.
I am looking at this Rangerover 02 HSE, Fully Loaded, I mean everything. Its got about 107k Miles, but the Air suspension isn't working properly. I can pick the car of for $2,000.00 Which i prolly will, but I'd just like to hear some things from other Rangerover drivers about the SUV in general, what to look for etc.
The owner of the RR says that it needs a sensor for the front & back, and that it would set it up to level itself out. Atm the front Drivers side, and both sides of the back end of the car are basically sitting on the tires (mabby a centimeter off the tire) It is sitting on un-even ground. I had it running for about 30 mins and it wouldn't even its self out, so if anyone can let me about the possibilities and potential Costs that'd be awesome.
I plan to pick it up drive it for a little bit till I can sell it, I figure 2,000 is a steal.
sweet thanks, i was looking for a diagram like that. Afaik, they were driving the RR like 2-3 weeks ago, but since then the EAS has gone into Fault Mode. I can't even put it in Drive, or take it out of Park gear rather, is that a common Fail safe? If so, Do you know of any ways to bybass the fail safe and manually lift the EAS untill I can replace the sensors and get to a Dealer for a EAS reset?
Edit: The Battery Died.. within that time.
Edit: The Battery Died.. within that time.
EAS tries to keep vehicle level every few hours when turned off. If leak, or bad sensor, this could certainly drain a battery. Since you are getting a bargain on this ride, consider a rollback wrecker trip to an indy shop that can read the codes and tell you what needs to be fixed. Be sure to check with shop first to be sure they have computer that can talk to Range Rover transmissions and suspensions. A generic OBDII code reader wont get it.
As far as airing it up, maybe, if you read the manual and bypass lots of stuff, but if you have a leak you are right back down while driving, could be issues.
Because of the lower than expected bargain price for the truck, would wonder just what else awaits you.
As far as airing it up, maybe, if you read the manual and bypass lots of stuff, but if you have a leak you are right back down while driving, could be issues.
Because of the lower than expected bargain price for the truck, would wonder just what else awaits you.
Here's the whole section on the suspension. More complex than you might think. There is a system bypass valve valve to vent excess pressure, so that might be one spot where air could be added, but please wear eye protection.
I went and gave it a good look over today, I'd imagine its the sensors, and Thats gonna be the first thing I go for. But heres some other things that worry me a little.
-Overheating, They say it never over heated while driving, so it leads me to suspect the Clutch fan, which isn't to bad.
-The Engine knocks.... not all the time, but I had it running for a little while and It started to knock... (mabby a bad lifter? other than that I really don't know)
-A Bonnet Sensors and Hood Latch are busted, and need to be replaced
I figure if I can atleast get the EAS working properly So I can put it in drive, and ride around, I can troubleshoot the clutch fan.
But any other ideas on the Knocking? I had Just put some oil in it, since it was running low.
I had the Coolant overflow out of the overflow tank today lol.
Edit:
The Electrical system seems kinda Off.. When i put the blinker on to the Right, it works instantly, if I put it on to the left, it takes like 10 minutes to start blinking. Yesterday the Drivers side window switch worked fine going up and down, but today it won't go down, and if i press up I get the message on the dash saying it is up (it really is up.) And the Back right window will only go down on the center consol, but I can press the switch in the back seat and it will go back up.
-Overheating, They say it never over heated while driving, so it leads me to suspect the Clutch fan, which isn't to bad.
-The Engine knocks.... not all the time, but I had it running for a little while and It started to knock... (mabby a bad lifter? other than that I really don't know)
-A Bonnet Sensors and Hood Latch are busted, and need to be replaced
I figure if I can atleast get the EAS working properly So I can put it in drive, and ride around, I can troubleshoot the clutch fan.
But any other ideas on the Knocking? I had Just put some oil in it, since it was running low.
I had the Coolant overflow out of the overflow tank today lol.
Edit:
The Electrical system seems kinda Off.. When i put the blinker on to the Right, it works instantly, if I put it on to the left, it takes like 10 minutes to start blinking. Yesterday the Drivers side window switch worked fine going up and down, but today it won't go down, and if i press up I get the message on the dash saying it is up (it really is up.) And the Back right window will only go down on the center consol, but I can press the switch in the back seat and it will go back up.
Last edited by zeal; May 31, 2012 at 12:02 AM.
Coolant overflow and overheating symptoms are indicative of a head gasket or cracked block problem - steam is created inside cooling sytem and forces water out (making it worse). Oil loss can be tied into head gasket problems.
Knocking can be oil releated higher than normal engine wear, or there can be a loud "tick" associated with slipped cylinder sleeve from over heating.
If you have not purchased yet, you may wish to reconsider, you'll be looking at some serious repairs or perhaps an engine. That's why the truck is bargain priced.
Head gaskets DIY - $300 parts, $200 machine shop. Or $1700 - $2400 at indy shop. Engine knock - ????
See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/
and
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...acement-32370/
and
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rite-up-48197/
Electrical problems are easy compared to engine and suspension. Usually blinker problems are just a burned out bulb front or rear.
Knocking can be oil releated higher than normal engine wear, or there can be a loud "tick" associated with slipped cylinder sleeve from over heating.
If you have not purchased yet, you may wish to reconsider, you'll be looking at some serious repairs or perhaps an engine. That's why the truck is bargain priced.
Head gaskets DIY - $300 parts, $200 machine shop. Or $1700 - $2400 at indy shop. Engine knock - ????
See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/
and
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...acement-32370/
and
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rite-up-48197/
Electrical problems are easy compared to engine and suspension. Usually blinker problems are just a burned out bulb front or rear.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; May 31, 2012 at 04:13 AM.
Any sure way I can test the Head gasket? I have access to a full body shop, This is kinda my deal, learning the car business.
I plan to pick up the Test liquid kit for the head gasket, but Is there any sure shot way to check if its a crack in the block vs. a head? If its just the head, 'll do the work my self, im mechanically inclined enough to figure it out any way I have too, If I can put the head in fix the sensors for under 500 (im doing labor) than I can still make money and have a good time in the car for the time being.
I was kinda suspecting the head gasket, the owner is playing stupid tho lol.
Edit: I also have a compression kit that imma give a try today.
I plan to pick up the Test liquid kit for the head gasket, but Is there any sure shot way to check if its a crack in the block vs. a head? If its just the head, 'll do the work my self, im mechanically inclined enough to figure it out any way I have too, If I can put the head in fix the sensors for under 500 (im doing labor) than I can still make money and have a good time in the car for the time being.
I was kinda suspecting the head gasket, the owner is playing stupid tho lol.
Edit: I also have a compression kit that imma give a try today.
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